John Dixon

You need to find the firing order of the skyline engine and the VG30. Ignore the cyl numbers and connect the injectors to the ECU in the order they should fire in for example: ECU Pin 101 - Inj 1 - skyline fires first - connect to first fire on VG30 (will be 1) Pin 103 - Inj 3 - skyline fires 2nd - connect to 2nd fire on VG30 Pin 105 - Inj 2 - " Pin 110 - Inj 5 - " Pin 112 - Inj 6 - " Pin 114 - Inj 4 - " Not entirely sure what the firing order on either engine is but should be obvious when you get them. I would imagine that you'll be OK and the ECU will be pinned out so that 1st -> 6th firing are in that order on the pins and it'll be a straight swap. Also, remember you'll need to do the same things with the ignition triggers to the PTU. Does the Skyline CAS have the same trigger pattern as the Z one? Nissan seem to use a few variations so you may need to adapt a skyline CAS or make a new trigger disk for the VG one if they don't match. Easiest way to tell will probably be to see if the ECU registers a resonable RPM when cranking.

Didn't know they even did a V12! V8 looks oddly familiar ....

Brilliant, thanks a lot mate. Will PM you the address of the engineering place to send them to if that's OK. Let me know postage cost and I'll get it over to you straight away. Yes, I need both.

Happy brithday mate :duffer:

Does anyone have the thin plate that fits between a TT engine and manual gerabox? Need to borrow one for a week or so if possible? Also a knackered clutch would be handy? Cheers

Put a jack under the bottom of the ball joint and put some pressure on it from underneath. That will lock it in place and stop it spinning. Don't do it too hard, just enough to stop it spinning.

Good luck with it mate.

Couldn't find the connector, sorry. Sure it's buried in there somewhere! SPL parts sell them new cheap.

MarkZx has an Exedy but I think it might be the carbon one. It drives really well, not too harsh.

Completey forgot to look, sorry. Was having a nightmare day with my car! Will do it tomorrow. Pretty sure it's there though.

If you set it to average the readings K value for dual pop will be fine.

Hi Dave, When did you PM mate, haven't got it. My home PC is broke at the minute so not on much. It sounds like either plugs or boost leak if it's only on max boost. Drop me a line if you want and we can have a chat. Cheers

An NA engine will detonate on poor quality fuel same as a TT will depending on how it's setup. Not sure about the 300 NA I'm afraid but it's certainly possible.

On the early GTR's when you changed the exhaust you got a boost increase also due to the fact that the wastegate couldn't actually bypass enough flow to control the boost anymore. If the R34 is the same, it's likely the turbo overboosted and grenaged its self then some fell back into the manifold. There's no way you can atribute it directly to lack of back pressure if anything the parts would go forward out of the exhaust - you'd need huge backpressure > cylinder pressure to force parts down the manifold and if you had that obviously the engine wouldn't run!

Will have got through the PCV system (crankcase breathers)

Best bet IMO would be skyline R33/R34 GTR Brakes, new shocks / springs, uprated anti-roll bars and change all the bushes. It'll make it feel like a different car. If you have cash left over go for a boost controller, if not then just fit boost jets and get the boost up to ~14psi. A better chip wouldn't go amiss either but JWT is OK.

Poor design for flow. Would be better if the two came together in a Y shape. With that design, flow from each side has to turn through 90 degrees to get to the common piece and the flows will impinge on each other causing further restriction.

You want the COM connected to the compressor outlet or another point at the same pressure (normal is the bottom of the hard pipe to the throttle body). The NO should be connected to the wastegate and the NC left vented. Assuming these are stock type wastegates, not externals?

There's no embarrasement in it. My old 205 would kick the 300's ass all day long TBH.

The stillen kit is more complete with adjustable, rose jointed tie rods for both ends. It's really easy to fit them then a bit of fiddling to remove the pre-load.

Just wanted to say thanks to Rob and his Dad for lending me their workshop (and skills) for rebuilding my steering rack. Not a job I could have done without the tools available and the quickly knocked up seal re-former (cheers Bob :bow: ). Nice to see some skilled craftsmen at work too. Awsome.

SPL do solid ALI bushes to replace the stock ones completely. Prob best for big power car if you can live with the noise. It's not too bad unless you run a plate diff.

They're raidal mount so you could have brackets made to fit them quite easily I would think. Comp brake would probably do it for a few hundred quid. If they're in improvement over porsche brakes they must be very very good. Just make sure they'll fit under your wheels

PM me you number and I'll give you a buzz.

If you've had a new face on the clocks then fitting a converter will make them read wrong again. If you have the ECU chipped then it will remove the limiter. I'm only in Kiddeminster if you want me to check it out for you.