John Dixon

If they converted it to fit an R32 it'll bolt straight on to the Z. If not you only have to drill the hub carriers to 14mm to take the largr bolts.

Laaaaaaaggggggg-tastic :)

You can remove the cooling unit from inside its housing too if you can be bothered taking the dash off. I did it, just take it out then glue the housing back together and put it back in as its needed to channel the air from the blower to the rest of the heating system. Surprisingly heavy piece of kit.

Auto TT has different intake cams to other engines (Man TT, Man NA, Auto NA). All exhaust cams same Auto TT turbos have smaller exhaust housings 96+ all have same intake cams.

Never met him either but he was a bit of an inspiration. Sad loss :cry:

Just look on the SPL website then phone smithy and buy one of everything!

Yes, I am that stupid, works a treat now :rolleyes: Cheers mate

Easier with the wheels and exhaust off but you can slide it round the exhaust by just letting it hang off the rear rubbers

Car isn't set up unloaded, measurements should always be made with car fully on suspension. A little bit of toe in seems to help the rear come round a bit during cornering. The wear has little to do with camber unless it's miles out and more to do with toe in/out scrubbing the edges as the tyre is effectively dragged sideways when going straight.

Try setting the front up parallel with about 1.5-2.0 deg -ve camber, 9-10 degrees castor. Rear: 1-1.5deg -ve camber 3mm toe-in. Worked well on mine. Took that initial dartiness out of the front and steering loads up nicely with 9deg castor.

It's dead simple Chris, really obvious when you look at it. I set mine up the the front on the furthest hole, transformed the car really, bit more tail happy but more progressive. Turn in was 100% better and you can trust the front to actually go where you point it.

God, am I really that stupid?! Cheers, will try that!

Just the concave bit on its own.

First had a really cheapo ebay one. Next, a hydraulic Sykes one (type can use on the car). Have got a bench mounted one on the way to see if that does them. The sykes will do a concave DIN bit it spreads it too much and splits the pipe. The nissan ones appear to have small ring between the 2 sides of the flare to - looks to me like it's to fix the diameter of the flare.

They're M10x1 fittings Having some problems with mine. Nissan appear to have used an SAE concave flare on their lines and can't find a flaring tool to match it!

With stock turbos/injectors you really don't want to be running that sort of boost. For one thing injectors are maxxed out and you're out of the turbos efficient range by then. Try measuring the peak MAF voltage, you'll probably find it's actually flowing more at ~14.5-15psi than it is at 17. Ones I've tried it on have done.

Will let him know, cheers. It's the round headlight one, not sure of the model.

You could just buy silicone bends and fit them.

Guy at work has an AMG E55 and it's rusting like an old jag :eek:

Of course it is, don't merc teach their machanics anything these days :tongue: :D

DO TPS first then base idle. There should hopefully be someting in the free consult software to show hard idle is on. Will say closed throttle or something similar. Yes, idle valve should be IAAV or whatever its called! AIV is exhaust air injection gubbins, different thing.

TPS ~ 0.44-0.48v Disconnect then reconnect TPS cable. (Not plug on unit, the one on the flying lead). Ensure hard idle switch ON Unplug IAV and set idle to ~750. Plug back in, should rise to ~800.

Prob TPS / Hard Idle Switch or sticky aux air valve. Check TPS voltage ~0.44v and hard idle switch is on. Also, check throttle cable not too tight.

A colder plug will help only to the point where it is no longer a hot spot in the chamber, after that it just makes cold running a pig. You can't do much with no squish, it just messes up the way the combustion proceeds in the chamber. If you can imagine the squish area is used to drive all the mixture towards the centre of the chamber, it completely changes the way the combustion happens.

Pressure regulator vacuum relief. System to boost fuel pressure for starting and if fuel temp high. No real downsides to binning it as it's not required in this climate. Also, the tank can fracture and cause loss of fuel pressure. To bin it just link the FPR vacuum signal directly to the plenum. You can then bin the solenoid, one way valve and tank.