John Dixon

Cool, will give Danny a buzz. Not bothered about material as it's only for a template anyway. Billy, cheers for the offer. Oddly enough I did think about procarparts but they only accept american express :confused: Ta

Brilliant, thanks. Probably will look rubbish as I'm doing it and I kinda don't care how things look as long as they work!!! Can't look worse than a pillar pod though :rofl:

Need one to use as a template.

Anyone know where I can get some carbon fibre sheet from? Need a piece big enough to make a new instrument binnacle from. Fitting some SPA gauges and tacho but don't want pillar pods etc as I think they look rubbish so I'm going to make a new facia to fit the stock shroud.

Bloody hell Mark, think I've just gone blind from the shine! Pleased you got it all sorted now.

Could be a hose has perished or come off one of the wastegate lines or the solenoid?

Hi Dave, You sure its not a misfire? Is it overboosting?

You just need to change the back end, everything else is the same other than the front brakes. It makes for an easier conversion too to some degree as you don't have to chuck all the intercooler pipework etc. You might get away with the NA diff etc for a while. Lots of TT users in the states put them on because of the lower ratio. Tuned TT probably produces more torque than your V8 so should hold up. Could always try it to start with anway and save the cost for later.

Depends on the engine spec but figure about 4k + engine. Thats for dry sump system, emerald management and exhaust manifolds / mounts / intake. You could stay wet sump and chop the pan but wouldn't recommend it really, especially given its a front sump design, will almost certainly surge on the track. You can get a cam re-grind and some mild head work for about £1200, all bespoke internals for about £10k Engines from japan anything from £400 - 800 for a bare engine. Again you could save some cost by re-using the stock intake system but its tuned for 4000 & 6000rpm.

Keith, no idea why you'd get booted out, can email you them if you want. MantaV8 on here has a chevy in his so he should be able to advise about specific fitment issues with it. He seemed to get it done in about 3 days so I guess he knows exactly what he's doing!!! Will post up more pics as and when. New crank pulleys are finally nearly done so should be fitting up oil system in the next few weeks. Just some wiring and plumbing after that!!

The car its in is just a scrapper we're using to test fit. Saved having mine towed all over the place!

No, nissan VH45DE quad cam.

Some pics of progress for anyone interested: http://www.zclub.net/forum/showthread.php?t=6994&referrerid=1279

Jesus! Severina Vuckovic - like Caroline Corr but sexier :bow:

Lol, yes, it's in more bits. Engine is currently test fitted in a scrapper so Leon can fab up the manifolds. Mounts and sump pan are done though. After manifolds its sorting out plumbing and wiring. Dry sump pump location is a right pain in the arse as the anti-roll bar is right where I wanted to fit it. Looks like its either drop the ARB down or extend the crank pulley then fit the pump roughly where the rad normally sits. Will then use a lower, thicker inclined rad and duct it properly.

12.7:1 CR + boost = BOOOOOMMMMMM!!!! You could run 6-7psi on 10.2:1 if you really wanted to. Turbo is the last thing in the world I'd ever do! The whole point of doing this in the first place was to eliminate lag and make a Z that actually drives well. I'm not too fussed about the numbers / bragging rights, its all about response and delivery. TBH if it makes 450 it'll be quick enough especially as it's much lighter than stock.

Engine is out of US + Jap market Infiniti Q45 (big horrible saloon thing). In stock form it makes about 310bhp running awful intake and manifolds with really tame cams. Usually just swapping the manifolds and a re-map gets about 380-400. Currently got 2 specs: Leighs / Leons: Stock bottom end, cams about 256deg at 50thou with tuned tubular manifolds and 8 x 45mm throttle bodies on independant runners. Mild port re-working on inlets and exhausts, valves de-masked in combustion chamber. Rev limit 7.5k Mine: 5mm overbore for 5.0l, bespoke slipper pistons for ~12.7:1CR, bespoke rods, lightened and heat treated crank. Cams are 280deg at 50 thou (30/70 70/30) Same intake / exhaust manifolds as above. More headwork including removal of divider on inlets and valves back-cut to imporve flow over tight side. Rev limit 8.5-9k Both engines running dry sump systems and emerald management, electric water pump. Don't know on power figures yet, but they'll be mega responsive. My spec should net hopefully 110-130bhp/l but time will tell. Exhaust scavenging is a little less efficient on a 90degree crank V8 then a flat plane of a four pot.

As manta says mate, Nissan VH45DE. All alloy quad cam with VTC, really nice engine. So much lighter than the VG that the suspension on the car it's in sits 2" higher now!! Not sure on parts costs yet as still some bits to finalise like dry sump pump mount. Manifolds will be a few quid as they're a work of art! 4 x 44mm dia 1m long primaries down each side.

If you're after big power then go down the big turbo route. If you're after resonable power with finesse and control go V8. I went V8 because I don't like turbo engines. If you can live with lag then sticking with the VG is certainly easier. If you're interested in the V8 route, drop me a line and can have a chat about it. Can do a kit for the nissan V8 with mounts, dry sump system, manifolds etc. Could even turbo / supercharge one if you twisted my arm enough! I'm doing a big NA build on my v8 for hopefully power and control but it ain't cheap! Costs are comparable for big turbo vs non-mental V8 conversion (read stock bottom end on nissan VH engine).

Excellent news Rich, over the moon for you mate :hyper:

Not many people can map them on the car TBH. I can but unless you've got siginificant mods it's not going to gain you an awful lot.

Happy birthday mate :duffer:

Yes, change everything you can! 50 to 60mm is a 44% increase in area so well worth it.

Yes, you'll benefit but try to do it without causing a sharp step. If you do have steps then at least try to put a radius on the inside of the step. Basically you'll get less pressure drop through the pipework hence less flow. You can do calcs on when the change in diameter becomes more of a restriction than just sticking with smaller pipe but they're pretty complex for compressible fluids and are flow rate dependant too. Its the same argumant for using smaller straighter pipe or bigger with loads more bends. Will try to dig out some info on equivalent diamters for bends etc to show you what I mean. Generally bigger is better.

Thats rubbish. Flow through a system will naturally be restricted by the narrowest point but you still loose less energy in the rest of the system by using larger bore pipework as pressure drop depends on pipe diameter. Energy loss associated with a step up in pipe diameter is related to formation of eddies in the 'dead area' immediately after the increase before the fluid expands to fill the larger area. The resulting turbulance obviously requires energy, that energy loss manifests its self as pressure drop hence less driving force to get the fluid down the lines and reduced flow. Same thing goes for a decrease in diameter, but the fluid forms a vena-contracta around the step. Best way to minimise it is use gradual changes in pipe size of around 11 degrees. As for the second part, the idea is to make the most efficient use of the flow being delivered by the turbo. The way to do that is to minimise pressure drop between the outlet and the engine. The pressure in the plenum will only increase when fitting larger diamter pipework because you've lost less pressure on the way to it from the turbo! The plenum will never be at greater pressure than the pipework supplying!!