Jump to content
View in the app

A better way to browse. Learn more.

300ZX Owners Club

A full-screen app on your home screen with push notifications, badges and more.

To install this app on iOS and iPadOS
  1. Tap the Share icon in Safari
  2. Scroll the menu and tap Add to Home Screen.
  3. Tap Add in the top-right corner.
To install this app on Android
  1. Tap the 3-dot menu (⋮) in the top-right corner of the browser.
  2. Tap Add to Home screen or Install app.
  3. Confirm by tapping Install.

John Dixon

Dormant Member
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by John Dixon

  1. Yes, together for single, seperate for dual. Can also have triple / quad with independent lo/hi speed adjustements on each but prob OTT for a road car. The SPL ones look OK, but when I spoke to him he said they were nowhere near the aragostas. The ones I'm talking about are certainly as good as aragosta, if not better.
  2. Would anyone be interested in a good set of high quality shocks for their car? I’m talking proper remote resovoir race spec monotube ali dampers, not dual tube small piston stuff like most aftermarket kits. You’d be looking at around £1250+VAT for single damping adjustment or around £1900+VAT for dual adjustable (I’ve not been able to find a dual adjustable for the Z). I'm having these made for mine anyway, so anyone interested let me know.
  3. I've got one, £25 + p&p if you want it. Cheers
  4. Leigh has but he's in moscow at the minute being paid to photograph models - tough life :rolleyes: Will get some next time I'm up there.
  5. Yes, he's finished one and got it sold and starting to produce them now the bugs have been ironed out. They're just mental, brilliant fun and nearly indestructable! Hope he gets them done soon so he can make my manifolds :D
  6. Should fit no problem, PAS Pump? on RHS might be an issue but sure that's easy fixed. Good luck with it.
  7. No, VTC controller won't work. System is a switch essentially that advances the inlet cam on activation. It's load / rpm related where it switches and this is ECU controlled. You can mod it in the map.
  8. Worth bearing in mind that if you start changing the length of the runners you're going to alter the torque / power characteristics of your engine completely. Something like the JUN single may be OK on a balls out big power car but you will loose lots of bottom end due to the short runners. Also, lots of these things are just made to fit the available space with no thought to fluid flow etc. Amazing how many people that make them know nothing about fluid dynamics. For example how many of these manifolds have internal trumpets? Not many I'd bet looking at the size of them.
  9. Greg, not entirely sure as no one to my knowledge has done this before. There are some stroked 5.0l (lower rev limit) and a few alky burning ones pushing ~900bhp@10,000rpm in boats. Rich, Oddly enough I'm just as keen as you to see it finished!
  10. Depends on the size of the combustion chamber and the compression ratio you want. Beacuse I've overbored the chamber is now relatively smaller than is was so hence flat tops and no bulges to increase CR. Generally flat tops give better combustion as there are no lumps and bumps to impede the flame front as it spreads across the chamber. It's pretty common to see dished pistons on turbo engines used to lower the CR, unless you go crude and use a thicker gasket.
  11. Finally got some pics up for anyone interested. Here Both pistons and rods are custom made to spec. Pistons are 98mm (5mm overbore) for 5.0l capacity CR will be ~12:1
  12. Ahhh noooooo turbos :hurl: Seriously though, you can get plenty of power N/A out of them without having to resort to turbos. If you really must there are a few in competition powerboats in NZ running 1200 or 1700bhp depending on spec. Loads of free charge / engine cooling on boats though.
  13. Yes, I can. Away on hols for a week tomorrow but will look it over when I'm back if you want.
  14. Yep, easy DIY stuff. Don't get nissan disks though, they're £££££ You need the callipar bolts and that's it. R33 go straight on, R34 need to drill hub carrier to 14mm.
  15. Drop me a PM when you're ready mate and we can have a chat. Cheers
  16. Basically on the road in a standardish car would map with wideband to get fuelling better as always leave 'off the shelf' maps a little rich - each car is a bit different and it's amazing how many Z's have fuel pressure problems without the owners knowing. Also, almost all aftermarket maps are unchanged until high TP / rpm. Found response can be much improved by closing up closed-loop area at mid table. Also a good idea if EGR removed. Timing changes on road are limited. Have good settings for stockish cars and some big turbo stuff that I've done on dyno. To get timing right, need to book RR time and do adjustments on each site to look for max power. Fuelling can be further optimised by adjusting for max power at each site rather then target AFR.
  17. The large values are the true timing figure +&h80. In this area the ECU is looking for knock with increased sensitivity. I'm not 100% sure on the knock sensor maps but I think they're either the knock count before the det reatrd is applied or the count before switching to the lo octane (knock) maps. Below is the definitions for all the parameters that were in the mapping software I wrote for the 300: 'Set up Fuel Maps blnErrors = Not FM_Primary.Setup("PrimaryFuel", 16, 16, &H7D00) blnErrors = blnErrors Or Not FM_PriKnock.Setup("PrimaryKnockFuel", 16, 16, &H7000) blnErrors = blnErrors Or Not FM_5th.Setup("5thFuel", 16, 16, &H7100) blnErrors = blnErrors Or Not FM_5thKnock.Setup("5thKnockFuel", 16, 16, &H7200) 'Set up timing maps blnErrors = blnErrors Or Not TM_Primary.Setup("PrimaryTiming", 16, 16, &H7800) blnErrors = blnErrors Or Not TM_Knock.Setup("KnockTiming", 16, 16, &H7C00) 'Set Up byte data blnErrors = blnErrors Or Not BA_RevLimit.Setup("Rev Limit", 1, &H7FB4, 50) blnErrors = blnErrors Or Not BA_SpeedLimit.Setup("Speed Limit", 1, &H7FA5, 1.25) blnErrors = blnErrors Or Not BA_Latency.Setup("Injector Latency", 1, &H7F88, 0.01) blnErrors = blnErrors Or Not BA_Feedback.Setup("Injector Feedback", 1, &H7F91, 1) blnErrors = blnErrors Or Not BA_VTCRelease.Setup("VTC Release Point", 1, &H79F6, 50) blnErrors = blnErrors Or Not BA_TPFuel.Setup("Fuel Map TP Scale", 16, &H7AF0, 0.125) blnErrors = blnErrors Or Not BA_TPTiming.Setup("Timing Map TP Scale", 16, &H7B10, 0.125) blnErrors = blnErrors Or Not BA_RPMFuel.Setup("Fuel Map RPM Scale", 16, &H7B00, 50) blnErrors = blnErrors Or Not BA_RPMTiming.Setup("Timing Map RPM Scale", 16, &H7B20, 50) blnErrors = blnErrors Or Not BA_TTPMin.Setup("TP Minimum Limit", 16, &H7E80, 0.125) blnErrors = blnErrors Or Not BA_TTPMax.Setup("TP Maximum Limit", 16, &H7E90, 0.125) blnErrors = blnErrors Or Not BA_TPLimit.Setup("TP Minimum Limit", 16, &H7960, 1) blnErrors = blnErrors Or Not BA_Recovery.Setup("Recovery", 16, &H7970, 1) blnErrors = blnErrors Or Not BA_ThroEnrich.Setup("Throttle Enrichment", 16, &H7E20, 1) blnErrors = blnErrors Or Not BA_IdleSpeedTemp.Setup("IdleSpeedWithTemperature", 32, &H76B0, 12.5) blnErrors = blnErrors Or Not BA_StartPulseIncTemp.Setup("StartPulseIncTemperature", 16, &H7E20, 1) blnErrors = blnErrors Or Not BA_DTS.Setup("Latency Change mS/V", 1, &H7F87, 0.00048828125) blnErrors = blnErrors Or Not BA_DRET.Setup("Detonation ign retard", 1, &H7FB8, 1) blnErrors = blnErrors Or Not BA_HGMC.Setup("High gear map coefficient", 1, &H7FC8, 1) blnErrors = blnErrors Or Not BA_StartTimingTemp.Setup("EngineStartTimingWithTemp", 16, &H7E50, 1) blnErrors = blnErrors Or Not BA_IdleTiming.Setup("IdleTimingMap", 16, &H7F60, 1) 'Set up wordArrays blnErrors = blnErrors Or Not WA_KValue.Setup("KValue", 1, &H7F2B, 1) blnErrors = blnErrors Or Not WA_VQTable.Setup("VQTable", 64, &H7A70, 1)
  18. Not on the Z. Single det retard parameter applied globally over the maps (&H7FB8) Once limits in knock tables exceeded then switches to different maps. Also, Z load scale based on theoretical puleswidth where TP = F(air flow / rpm) so timing always messed up by tinkering with AFM signal.
  19. OK, to remove it all: AIV System: Solenoid output goes to tee piece to 2 pipes. 1 runs across bulkhead and past battery to inner wing, one into drivers side inner wing - cut these off and remove AIV stuff from in wings at later date. The 2 'feeds' to the solenoid are from balance bar and turbo inlet (via small pipes on side of plenum). Remove these also. EGR: Sol output to hardpipe under plenum to EGR valve, remove pipe and leave open. 'Feeds' to solenoid are from the two small pipes on side of plenum (one to turbo inlet and one to throttle body tapping). Remove the tubes from either end of the metal pipes and blank them at the TB and inlet pipe. Now remove solenoids. That will leave you to just connect the fuel damper and boost sensor (black plastic box attached to inner wing) together then to the small tapping on the balance bar.
  20. Don't up the boost until you've chipped it! 1 bar is OK on an otherwise stock car. Drop me a line if you're after a chip, I can sort you one out. Greddy profec E01 or B would be my choice for controller. Best cash you can spend now is probably bigger brakes and new anti-roll bars (there's a group buy on ARB's going on I think).
  21. You can just take most of them off. They're for AIV and EGR mainly which are emmissions control and not necessary. The only ones you need to keep are for fuel damper and boost sensor.
  22. Nice to see you'll be mobile again Mark. If anyone deserves it you do after all the hassle. Might be up in Wrexham on Sunday doing more V8 bits if you're about.
  23. What ever happened at GPS, Johnny was alway a top bloke when I dealt with him in the past. Fair enough that was ages ago but even so seems weird.

Important Information

Terms of Use

Configure browser push notifications

Chrome (Android)
  1. Tap the lock icon next to the address bar.
  2. Tap Permissions → Notifications.
  3. Adjust your preference.
Chrome (Desktop)
  1. Click the padlock icon in the address bar.
  2. Select Site settings.
  3. Find Notifications and adjust your preference.