John Dixon

If you're going to do it, best to run a vacuum pump on it to actually pull a vacuum on the crank case. Does tend to smell pretty bad too unless you run the vent to somewhere under the car.

You could just wire a switch to the power line to the unit, probably through a relay, that would work. I checked out with VOSA, and it's OK to remove the ABS as far as MOT goes, as long as you completely remove the actuator etc. the only parts you can leave on are the wheel trigger disks. On mine, I'm going to pull the lines out that run to the unit, then put a new tee in the engine bay and run new lines to the front (it's front / rear split anyway). This will ensure the lengths are close to equal. and remove all that unecessary line. I'm pretty sure the stock Z crap pedal feel and that thing where you seem to need to press the pedal first to seat the pads is partially due to the system design.

Some of the early C20 chips were awful. They literally just lifted 1/2 the timing map by 5° and 1/2 by 3°.

I've got one Steve.

Yep, had to drill my hub carriers out to 14mm to take the bolts. R33GTR are the same dia (12mm?)

Nice one Yas, coming along nicely. Sorry for not answering the calls today - family problems.

Drop me a line when you're settled in mate, can catch up for a drink :duffer:

I thought they were all 3.2l ?

Don't get a superchip, their Z program is terrible. You'll get around 330bhp on a good, otherwise standard car with all those mods and an exhaust. Increase in mid range is impressive though

I raced a new one ('04) coming back from ztech a while back. All boring straight line stuff on the motorway. Was pretty interesting, as soon as we hit it he was much more responsive and pulled a car length or so on me, but as soon as the laggy old beast spooled up, I could reel him in and pass him easy. Most of this was 50mph up though, off the mark it'll probably have you.

Sure it wasn't rain getting on the MAF through a cone filter? Causes similar symptoms.

Long shot, but if you've just had the injectors changed, are you sure an o-ring isn't passing? Try a power balance test on conzult and see if you can narrow it down to a specific cyl. Are your injectors definately 555's?!

Yes, the callipar are threaded. You can drill it on the car, but I'd remove it to make sure you drill it straight. It's pretty soft ali, so easy to put an angle on it when you drill. Removal isn't too hard, just remove disk and calliar, then split bottom ball joint, track rod and king pin.

You'd need to put threaded inserts in, probably not worth the hassle. Just buy a 14mm drill and drill out the hub carriers, it's not a problem.

Nice one Jay. Does look like a bugger.

Supercharger every time. Much better power delivery and response. Modern screw ones are as good as turbos in terms of efficiency, obviously some losses from driving them, but more than made up for from a driveability point of view IMO. Turbo's can't push more air. A centrifugal or screw charger can push just as much or more, it's the roots type that aren't very good at high revs.

Doh!

No, it'll be fine. You might squeeze a little more power from a remap, but not worth it really.

Suspect the MAF is knackered. Surpriesed it idles Ok with it off though, the limp settings are for 370cc! Consult check only really checks the MAF circuit, not the calibration. Do you know what actual voltage was shown? Best bet is to try and swap it out and see what happens.

What sensor are you talking about? Are you sure its not the FICD connector (extra air supply for air-con operaton). The ECU doesn't receive feedback from the AAC as far as I know. The RPM is essentially all the feedback it needs to control on. Unless I'm wrong though, the AAV supplies air directly into the pleunm through the back, the hose that runs from AAV to cold start regulator then to the balance bar may be the one you've removed? Easiest way is to remove the air supply to the whole assembly. This is a 1/2-3/4"? pipe that runs down the LHS of the plenum and is connected to a hardpipe.

Be making a similar harness up for the Emerald M3D soon.

R34 callipars are gold, but a little different from 350z. R33GTR are the same as R34GTR, but black. R33 mounts are exactly the same as Z32. For R34, you need the R34 mounting bolts and drill out your hub carriers to 14mm.

Yeah, most likely a vac leak, especially on a newly built engine.

If you're using emerald, I'm going to be making a conversion harness to fit it to the Z32 soonish. Already looking at getting new CAs trigger disks made up.

They do some fairly serious stuff - stroker kits etc. Think they have an official relationship with nissan, but could be wrong.