John Dixon

I'd save on the front lower arms initially and poly bush the whole car. The rear subframe ones are particularly important. You can now get a rear arm set too as well as the 'master' set from energy suspension. Try GTR.co.uk for a 2nd hand set of R33/R34GTR brakes, or some of the traders on here do big brake upgrades. You probably want to look at disabling the HICAS too if you're a keen driver.

Could be wrong, but I don't think the NA has one? The control circuitry in the ECU's different.

Nice pick up Jeff. You can just bypass it and run the pump off the relay at 12v all the time. It's a bit more noisy, but that's all.

Fookin 'ell that's going to be lively! Just hold full throttle for another 1000rpm .... :D :D

1 bar = 14.7psi

They're flywheel figures.

Was a good day actually. Great to see and hear things like the 996 GT3RS run up. An old (1978) 930 turbo made an impressive if laggy 510bhp (in a 1050kg car!). The porsche guys were actually pretty friendly too. Well impressed with WRC tech. Really top blokes. Very helpful guys with loads of motorsport experience, but no bulls*t. They certainly won't try to sell you a super AFC :D Dyno setup is excellent and they also do suspension alignment too. Definately recommended. Nice result out of Paul's car, although heat soak is a problem. May have been a bit more in it if we cooled the I/C before the final run. The one after that with exactly the same setup was down 10bhp. Not too sure yet what the flat spot at 5500 is. We couldn't map it out no matter what we tried, so it's probably related to intake or exhaust pulse tuning or something. Managed to about 1/2 the width of it by moving the VTC point around but nothing would reduce it! Very odd. Another thing that was very ineresting is that the 'trick' of removing the throttle stop is not so good after all. It gained about 25bhp by putting it back. Guess it must direct the air into the plenum in a way that improves the distribution or stops charge robbing?! Either way a surprise!

Not sure about plumbing shops, but anywhere that sells pneumatic control stuff should have some.

Alex, if you don't get any joy off greddy for a solenoid on it's own, give me a shout. Pretty sure it's a standard industrial one.

There are loads of good engine builders in the UK. Just find someone with a proven competition record then you know it'll hold together. Autosprint, puma race engines, CTM (where my V8 is), BBR are just a few that spring to mind.

Not aware of any Z's that have a problem with fuel aeration, so the fuel swirl pot is probably a waste of time. The water one, probably the same and you'd be hard pushed to fit it in the rad hose anyway.

Too few turbos! No such thing :tongue:

Nice one! Good luck with it.

Great stuff Mark. Was the rich running down to passing injector O-rings then?

I've got one. PM mr if you're interested. Cheers

The coolant lines are worth removing, they're only there to heat the throttle bodies and stop them icing - unlikely to ever happen in this country, especially on a turbo engine where charge temps are high. I'd change the wiring loom too, probably the cause of 90% of all Z problems.

3 wheel just uses one driven wheel as a speed signal, figuring there'll be no slip on it I think.

Yes, you can junk them and all the associated pipework.

Me too

Remember if you have non-standard alloys, the toe figures in mm will be wrong. They'll need to either correct them or work in degrees. The last place I tried didn't know the difference!! Needless to say I left at that point ....

REAR biased, can't believe that!!

Track every time. There's only so many times accelerating in a straight line can be fun.

You don't necessarily want equal length on a road car. Better to spread the primary lengths by a few inches to widen the power band a little. Basically you need to aim so that the primary length is tuned for the engines expected peak torque RPM and exhaust valve opening position then swing the lengths to either side of the ideal figure. If you're going for a screamer, maybe better to tune for between peak torque and peak power RPM. Length (in) = ((850 * (EVO+180deg)) / Trpm) - 3 will get you close to the length you want to use

Call Leon at Alunox, he can make you some no problem

Simon, At what sort of temp does a modern oil start to degrade? My thought has always been that you shouldn't say I'll run a 60wt becuase my oil gets up to 100+, but I'll add a bigger cooler and use a grade that will also lube better as it warms up. This was to keep the oil out of the sort of temps that would cause break down. Also, what oil do you recommend for dry sump installs. Was going to go for a 5W30 or something to keep de-aeration as good as possible.