John Dixon

What a nice way to celebrate your kid's birthday, she must be so proud :xxx:

Could be anything. If you can get someone with a conZult to pull the program off and email me it I can tell you if it's OK for higher boost.

When you do the ones in the front lower arms (not the tie rods) don't press them, it tends to squash the arms. Best way is cut the excess rubber from the outside then heat up the 'tube' they sit in with a blow torch. Eventually, after stinking out the whole street, they'll more or less just drop out on their own.

Yes, it's a pain and takes ages, even with a ramp and press. Worth it though. The anti-roll bar and front arm ones are relatively simple, as is one of the steering rack ones. The rear subframe ones and diff mounts are a nightmare. You need to drop the subframe then press / cut all the old ones out, then press the new ones in. Allow about 12hours non-stop to do the whole lot in one go.

Dodgy MAF is a strong possibility. Best bet is to hook up a conzult, record a run and hope it happens. That way you can then look at the telemetry and see which (if any) sensor is playing up. Water temp / fuel temp sensors could have a similar effect, but unlikely to cause it to overfuel that much. Does it only happen in the wet (water on MAF element).

Lol, cheers Matt, £5 winging it's way over!

Was impressive last time it was there. What sort of times was he getting? Think he was

Nice, can't wait to see it done :D

Was the red RX7 that was running 10's there?

As Ed says, do the ECU first.

Nice times, well done :dance:

I've seen this failure on a car I do some work on that had poly bushes fitted too.

Koyo make a copper cored one too, which should give better heat transfer for the same area.

Can't go wrong with the Greddy ones either B or E01.

Thanks Mike

That's lovely, by far the best bonnet I've seen for the Z

Sorting out the idle can be quite tricky with 555's. I usually raise the speed to about 850rpm (in the ECU so it's still controlled). Biggest factor is usually ECU correction factor being off. Should be able to sort it out if you want to come over some time.

Me too please.

Probably bits of an alarm system?

Couldn't agree more, if you're going to do it, just do it once and do it right!

Don't need spacers if you change the main cradle bushes for poly (or ali) ones, they're just to reinforce the stock silicone filled ones.

Lol, OK I'll do something when I get a chance and put it in the FAQ area!

You might want to consider a hard top too (no T-bars). Lighter, more rigid and better looking. Try finding one though .....

Think you can, the HICAS ecu should just interpret it as a fault and lock the system. I usually short the fluid level sensor to do the same thing.

Mine weighs 1410kg with emmissions control junk and 4WS removed. Last dyno was 370bhp @ wheels, 1/4 13.3s. Mods engine wise just exhaust, intake and one of my own chips. It's a 2 seater jap manual. Biggest problem on 1/4 is launching, anti-squat and heavy front end don't make for good 60ft times. Handling is OK ish of you change the shocks and springs and all the bushes and disable the 4WS. Just don't expect to be chasing evo's round the twisties. Balance is pretty tail happy, but not uncontrollable. Basically it's a good laugh to drive.