John Dixon

Might be running a bit rich at very low rpm / load. I can try tweaking the bottom of the VQ table down a little, might help.

Or a noble GTO-3R mmmmmmmm. See 2nd hand ones for ~£32k ish now.

Excellent Chris, well chuffed for you! Does it run OK so far with those settings on the chip?

Yup, you're on the list Jay. Cheers

Nice Leigh, I'll watch this space with interest!

Should have a free day next week sometime, I'll give you a buzz. Things are a bit hectic at the minute! Cheers Vinz.

Brave, brave man :eek: You do realise you'll never get the keys back now Leigh, you still owe her for the Satch gig!

No, oddly enough it doesn't. Guess you don't want to turn that off! Also PAS is semi mechanical, HICAS is totally hydraulic, that may be why?!

Rich, next time you're over I'll take you out and you can see what you think of mine. Got R34 stuff with porterfield pads (pads going on this week, currently old EBC)

Pull the plug that goes to the fluid level sensor (top of bottle) then short the plug where it goes back to the loom. HICAS light should come on and it's done.

Certainly is auto has extra circuitry to interface with the slushbox ECU.

Always used to use valvoline Syn power 5W-50 until I couldn't get hold of it, how does that rate? TBH, I'll put your recommendations in next time. Group buy anyone?!

If Andy dosen't have one, drop me a line, should have something lying around.

Ahhhh, you might be right. Better go say a few prayers at the alter of anti-bling. Hope it's not too late :cry:

Cheers Simon, this is interesting reading.

Simon, What are your recommendations for Z gear boxes and for a plate type LSD. I've been using redline MT90 in the box but haven't done the diff oil yet as I'm a bit worried about changing the lockup characteristics. Cheers

Know what you mean, they do seem to cost abit for what they are. Just buy OTP EPROMS instead and chuck them.

Morris 10W-50 synth

Pete's is disconnected because the solenoid that operates it was buggered, not the valve its self. To check this, pull the line from the solenoid when the car is idling and suck on it. If the engine nearly dies then the valve is moving. If it makes no difference then it's stuck.

Would certainly make getting in/out in my narrow garage a bit easier.

Yeah, think the problem is probably that they can't get a long enough tract length in there without making it huge. Will be interesting to see if they can sort it. I'd thought about trying some trumpets of DCOE's internally. Guess the JUN car was OK as they were going for all out power and didn't care about response as someone on the yank site pointed out.

Will do.

Some of the american blokes are making big single throttle intakes, but early results aren't looking good. Too much low end power loss.

Yeah, wouldn't be a problem except for the fact that the maps are very lean in the areas when it's open. I added a bit more in that area on mine as a precaution. If you look at the knock maps I think that was nissans intention with the 'cut' into the closed loop area.

If it sticks open it can cause rough idle as Paul says. If it sticks closed it can possibly lead to some low load detonation. Never seen it happen when it's removed but it is a possibility.