John Dixon

You probably won't get enough boost without load on. You can make a 'stethescope' by putting a bit of vacuum tube in your ear then 'listening' with the other end. Looks stupid but works! Just make sure you don't push it against a good leak!! The idle valves and stuff down the back of the plenum are worth checking too, esp. the hose from the middle of the balance bar to the warmup valve.

Rubber coupling on turbo outlet, balance bar seal, vacuum line off balance bar? Worth a quick check of all those.

Excellent, post some results on what you think, might get a set myself. They won't be too hard to fit, just jack both sides of the car up so the suspension is level before you try to put them on. The links at the back can be quite awkward too, plus they're often corroded.

Lets hope so!

Couldn't agree more, it will feel great when it comes in, but the fact remains until you get up to high revs the stock still produces more power. The steepness of the curve is what you feel as 'spoolup' ie rate of change of torque. You've still got a fairly narrow power band to work with at the end of the day, so it'll be hard work to keep it spooled up on a tight road - i'd imagine with the sort of power it's going to be making that traction will become a big issue when it starts to spool too. Mac, why try to turn this into a competition?! Obviously it's going to be quick, and I wish you the best of luck with it. It's horses for courses mate. Oh, and cash too ;)

I'm not saying there's nothing until 5k, I'm saying that until 4.5k they make less power than stock, so until you get past that point it'll feel slower than it is now. Look at the chart you posted a while back and took the quotes from, it's pretty clear. They might be spooled in as much as they're making +ve boost by then but you can't expect a turbo that size to spin up as quick as stock. You should be helped by your management system and the fact the inlet tract is a bit more open with no MAF's. Has Nico got these on his? 2530's might not have a great deal of lag, but it's still more than stock, again check the charts out. With good manifolds they might be close ... Guess really you'll just have to wait and see how it goes once it's finished.

No, look at the dyno comparison on TT net. All the aftermarket turbos make considerably less power than stock untill > about 4-5krpm with the exception of sport 500's, 530's and PE1420's. 18G's overtake stock at ~4.5k, but at 4k they make nearly 100bhp less. I'd imagine they're going to feel pretty laggy until 5k, after that they just take off. Biggest problem I can imagine you'll have is if you need to lift once they're spooled they'll take a while to get going again.

Another approach:

I can do it for you if you bring it to me (Kidderminster). Might be someone closer.

I've got a cusco LSD. It does bang and rattle a bit, it's because it's a clutch (plate) type rather than viscous. Gives better traction and less fishtail, the trade off is the noise and clunks. You'll get used to it!

Yep, just tape it up.

Cut & Paste: PVPR is pressure regulator vacuum relief system. It's designed to boost fuel pressure for starting or if fuel temp > a certain value. It works by switching the FPR's vacuum signal between manifold and a surge tank that is held at max boost pressure. Removing it saves some weight if you remove the solenoid and tank, and also simplifies the vacuum piping a bit. Also, it's less parts to go wrong / split on this crucial line. Removing it has the possible downside that the car may be harder to start, and you loose the (very little) protection it gives for the very unlikely hot fuel condition. I've had it off mine for ages and had no hassle what so ever starting it. John

PRVR?? If so, just follow the lines to the solenoid by the battery and remove it. Remove the arch liner then the small pressure resevoir that the other lines from the solenoid go to. That's it done.

Chris, There is one small line that goes to the LHS throttle body via a hardline, blank it. One 1/4" that goes to the balance bar, back LHS, blank it. One line goes into the front crossmember via a hardpipe (think it's off the bottom of the can), unbolt it from the crossmember and remove the non-return valve, connect the vent line from the tank to this. All the other ones can just be disconnected (I think there's a 1/2" that vents into the main chassis rail).

I'm proud to say I only have 2 bits of bling and you can't see either! Ones a HICAS eliminator and the other's the master cyl brace.

Try Johnny at GPS if you need skyline disks, got me some cheap that lasted about 25k with no problems. Warped them recently but they are pretty worn now.

DIY for me, more satisfying. Oh and cheaper, nowt to do with being a tight northen git ;)

Or multipoint weld in cages, be up for that.

It's worth cleaning the connectors at least when the plenum's off. You can't do anything with the injectors themselves unless you do as Bilky says. Most bosch / lucas specialists can do that for you but it's quite difficult to remove them from the fuel rail. Unless you've got a problem then I'd leave them alone and maybe put some cleaner in the tank next time you fill up.

No idea but it only seems to do it when you use the loop on the PTU, if you put an ignition lead between the coilpack and plug then read it it makes no difference.

The AFR trace was done with an LSU Wideband sensor so is probably pretty good. Kval=288dec, Latency=0.75ms, Feedback=1ms, so stock values for 370cc injectors fuel map at rpm/load points in question was actually getting richer at the time. I agree that new stock with this setup would be OK, but as you say they're old so why not just replace with 555's if they're not meeting flow anymore. If the latency is set properly then thay idle just like stock.

Not anymore, used to work at NEC before it shut down, lived nr Kilmarnock. Bought my first Z from Calder motor co.

~15psi. I guess every set of injectors are slightly different. Fuel pressure etc was all OK but you could clearly see it leaning out on an AFR trace even though the map was getting richer at that point.

Gordon, did you used to work at NEC, used to see a red Z there sometimes.

FWIW, I DID max mine out on stock turbos. Got 555's on there now and as long as the chip is set up properly there is no problem with them. You need to lean out the top end fuelling as to hit ~11:1 with 370's you need to map for ~9:1 with 555's you would make 9:1 and overfuel. Idle can be a bit rough if the latency is not set properly, but again if it's correct it's as smooth as stock.