John Dixon

Speak to Andy P. He's in your area and has done a few!

Horrible HICAS - Now removed Window rattles if half way down. Crap headlights

Its pretty common practice on competition engines. Really good idea.

Just done 1600 hard driven miles through scotland in my Zed in a week and it didn't break down once! Is this a record!! Did warp my brakes though :mad:

I think the loom you're talking about is for the cruise unit. Short loom on LHS of ECU with a small black plug on it?

Only problem with that is that they're also activated when the throttle is less than 0.7v, so the profec would keep rebooting. Best way is to make up a circuit that checks for solenoids active and throttle >0.7v then use that to cut the circuit between the EBC and its solenoid.

Dave, if you want can rig up a system to retain the safety boost feature with a boost controller. Bit of a PITA though and TBH the stock knock detection is pretty useless anyway. Not to sure if the knocklink has external outputs, but if it does, could use that to cut the boost controller signal to the solenoid.

I know, but I've assumed air entering the cyl is at 2bar(abs) and 300K. It's possible on a very cold day I suppose if it went in to the intake at 280. TBH it's a very rough calc!

The charts look good, but I'd set the scales the same on them all, maybe 200-500 or something like that.

No, don't tell anyone but I'm a chemical engineer :x:

Si, problem is you've assumed AFR is volumetric base, it's mass: Assume Cyl vol = 0.0005m³, RPM=7500 VE=90% this gives air requirement1.6875m³/min Air density at 1bar, 300K is 1.177 so assuming compressibility=1 then at 2 bar, 300K it's 2.354 (maybe this is a bit low temp for charge but it'll do!) Mass air flow = 3.972kg/min Assuming 12:1 AFR then mass petrol = 0.331kg/min Assuming 721kg/m³ density then Vol petrol = 0.000459m³/min or 459cc/min Looks pretty close, but that's assuming complete combustion + all the assumptions above. Be interesting to get the figures for humid air at realistic charge temp.

Sorry, not too clear. Yeah, DP between the rail and manifold is maintained at 2.95, fuel rail pressure as read with a gauge is 2.95 + boost. Used to seeing the idexed figure as I normally do a fuel pressure check on boost if I'm chipping cars.

Z32 fuel pressure is 2.95 bar + boost.

Also worth checking the injector connector on the same cylinder.

Were they all complete failures (earth's off at the side) or were they single cyl ones. I reckon the single one would be a bugger to repair!

For anyone with a dodgy PTU, I think I can now fix them. Tried it on mine today and I'm pretty confident it will work, I'll give it a shot tomorrow night once the glue's dry.

Good point, it might look like it was running rich as the fuel when it didn't fire would pass into the exhaust and possibly burn up a bit in there.

Try setting them all in the middle then adjust it from there for how you like the feel / balance. I figured that the people who devlop these things give an 'optimal' setting in the middle then some adjustment either way for preference / taste. Be careful making it too hard as it tends to make the limit very snatchy and quick especially in the wet.

Don't think there's much chance of that!! Will be looking out for tractors though!

Guess you'll be wanting me to use gloves when I fit that now :eek:

Jay, once I get back from hols, we can get my calibrated gauge on it, and see if it's the gauge of the EVC that's reading properly.

Dunno, most saxos seem to have a couple of tits in 'em.

On holiday, so going to miss this one. Still, I'll be driving my Z through the highlands so not too bad :D

The rubber coupling hose that joins the hardpipe to the compressor outlet often gets loose, worth a look.

pfr6b-11b is the stock plug. For colder you need something with a 7 in it (if it's an NGK). Normal recommendation is one range colder fo every 50-100bhp over stock. I use ZFR7F-11 coppers, BKR7EIX-11 irridiums also work.