Everything posted by John Dixon
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'play' in rear steering rack
Don't think so, there's a sort of non-return valve under the back of the car that locks it in place when the ECU senses a fault. Same thing goes for the front solenoid valve, unless it's actuated either way then there's no path through it for the oil so everything's locked up. There's also a centering spring in the rack, so it wouldn't feel 'loose'.
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what bhp
No, I meant the other steve ;)
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Spluttering/hesitant Z…
Best bet is probably to see if anyone lives close and exchange it for a known good one to try.
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300Z.bin is anyone running this tune??
Paul, the maps in 310Z aren't really custom, it's a stock japanese timing map with a stock US? fuel map with the top end leaned out to 11.2 (theoretical) AFR. Having said that I've no doubt it will make more power than JWT. I'd just be cautious the first time you run it as with stock injectors, if they're not spot on, aiming for 11.2 AFR might well give you >12.
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what bhp
Let me know how you go Steve. Seem to remember it's a pretty tame chip in yours so there might be some more in it if you want to push it.
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300Z.bin is anyone running this tune??
The knock maps are pretty poor, you'll melt your exhaust valves if you drop on to them for long.
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Midlands Meet - March 27th
Yeah, good to see everyone and congrats to Diane especially. Cross member frightened me to death :shock:
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Surprising fix for idle prob ...
Had a look at Leigh (Friday's) car for high idle today. Just thought I'd share it as it's not something I'd have immediately picked up. To cut a long story short, throttle idle SWITCH was not making, idle at 1700rpm. Turned out the wires were shot, so ran a new pair to the ECU from engine bay, connected them up, started it up and it idled sweet! Oddly enough if you disconnect them when it's been OK it dosen't happen again. Looks as though the ECU maybe needs to see it shut once to ensure it's operating, or it puts the IAAV in the 'cruise' position to stop it stalling or quick throttle closing. Maybe someone who's dissasembled the code can shed some light - Eric??
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Midlands Meet - March 27th
Oh, tomorrow I think!
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Midlands Meet - March 27th
Will probably come along in my sick Z :(
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Dissapointing THOR results
It's an Xtronics Romulator was given it for free on the condition I did the software! If you wait a little while, live mapping through the consult port is not far away thanks to a guy in the states :bow:
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Dissapointing THOR results
I've got an emulator and some software I did for real time mapping. No trace yet but it does work.
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Dissapointing THOR results
Yep, but it's already at 5900rpm on the mines map from memory, I'll check for you. Stock on a european car is 4900.
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Just gets better doesn't it?
Nigel, PVPR is pressure regulator vacuum relief system. It's designed to boost fuel pressure for starting or if fuel temp > a certain value. It works by switching the FPR's vacuum signal between manifold and a surge tank that is held at max boost pressure. Removing it saves some weight if you remove the solenoid and tank, and also simplifies the vacuum piping a bit. Also, it's less parts to go wrong / split on this crucial line. Removing it has the possible downside that the car may be harder to start, and you loose the (very little) protection it gives for the very unlikely hot fuel condition. I've had it off mine for ages and had no hassle what so ever starting it.
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Uprated anti roll bars, your opinions?
Are yours the Stillen ones Andy?
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Time for a new exhaust!!
Rich, Grashopper can supply SWB stainless exhausts, made by JP. Quality is excellent and they can tailor it to your spec.
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Uprated anti roll bars, your opinions?
I found on my 205 they made it snatchy as hell, but they were Grp A items. Suppose like any suspension tweak it depends how well judged the settings are for road use. It's on my list of things to do, but would like to get some feedback off someone who's done it on a Z first.
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A Big Thank You
Nice one Jason, pleased it's sorted :dance:
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disconnecting fts?
If you go all the way to the left from 19 it's the black box right against the inner wing.
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disconnecting fts?
Use the line that goes to the stock boost pressure sensor on the other side of the bay (small black box in the far corner)
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disconnecting fts?
It won't cure the code 42, but it will stop it messing with the fuel pressure. It's most likely the connector, try taking it off and cleaning it.
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disconnecting fts?
Just as an aside, I'd tee the gauge somewhere else. If it breaks your fuel pressure will drop - not good! The pipes you have disconnected, you can now remove the pipes, the solenoid and the non-return valve / surge tank from the wing too.
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disconnecting fts?
I looked into this when I bypassed my PVPR and as far as I can tell, the FPR will see the correct pressure. Basically there are 2 modes of operation for the solenoid: OFF: FPR connected straight to manifold, so same as if bypassed. There is also a tee that charges a surge tank in the wing via a non-return valve on the same line. ON: FPR conected to surge tank, so pressure at max boost all the time and rich running when not on full boost. Basically the downsides are: Harder to start as fuel pressure not boosted at start. Never noticed any difference though TBH. PVPR protection gone, but really does next to nothing in UK climate and is a possible cause of problems. It can only up pressure to 3bar + max boost anyway, so won't help any even if on at high boost!
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disconnecting fts?
Eric, as I understood it, the ECU just activated the PVPR solenoid on high fuel temp to increase fuel pressure if possible.
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converting speedo
If you swap the whole set of clocks then everything reads properly when it's connected. Series 1/ 2 clocks do have different connectors, but you can swap the actual speedo mechanism on its own if you have to - its a pain though.