John Dixon

According to NGK, ZFR7F-11 is the closest dimensionally to PFR6B-11B, which was a plug nissan had designed specifically for this engine. I was lead to believe that the projection is an important aspect on this head, as the PFR6B-11C / BKR7EIX-11 don't project far enough to get the spark right into the mixture and are masked slightly. The only other one they recommended was a surface discharge race plug, but it was an 8 range.

Excellent Tony, pleased it's sorted! Did he actually map the ECU, or fiddle with the AFC to adjust it?

Mmmm, I'll need to double check the manual!!

I run ZFR7F-11 coppers (0.8mm gap) and they're fine. Most big tuned US/JAP cars use these too.

Cheers again for all the suggestions, I'll try to look at it again after the weekend.

Andy, have checked fuel pressure and it's OK all the way up to the det! Eric, worth a go, cheers. Not got romulator connected up, but have got a 4 map chip in there. Will maybe try a different ECU and build the maps onto a new base. I was using 93 man AIV remove from 310Z with all maps replaced.

That's kind of what I was thinking, but then how come the stock timing check procedure gives 15° at this condition (which my car did last time I checked it)!

Cheers Ryan, working late tonight but might take you up on it soon!!

Changing the bushes makes a big difference, particularly the rear subframe and front tie bar ones.

Thanks Eric! I guess that inaccuracy in the TP formula is at low revs then? Still the timing should be 15° shouldn't it ?

Stu, take the fluid level plug off the resevoir then short the plug that goes back to the loom. HICAS light should then be on and HICAS disabled.

It's just a feel thing. I like raw, 'pure' cars hence the fact I hated it. Henri's thread was a good read, and raised some interesting points, but to me it's academic whether it actually does help or not under certain conditions - it wrecked my confidence in the car so I got shot of it and now I'm much happier. Mine steers enough from the back with the cusco diff anyway!! I'd recommend you disable it and try it then see which you like!

Seems strange to me too, but remember the stock timing check procedure is 15° at 2000rpm so it must be there or thereabouts on the maps. Also, last time I checked it it was 15° under these conditions! Confusing !

That looks like the stock jap engine oil cooler to me (and the induction kit is Blitz)

Cheers for the advice. I'm pretty sure it's MAF/Air leak though due to the timing issue (35° at 200rpm). Will check the injector resistance though, worth a look.

Bad, bad, bad!! Maybe more noticable on my SWB, but I hated it. Speedo was converted properly by using UK clocks too.

Well, tried another MAF tonight and still bloody detting! Could anyone with a conzult try to get a MAF voltage reading at 2000rpm, stationary please?! That would at least show me if I'm barking up the wrong tree! Better start looking for air leaks when I'm fitting my intercoolers then :cry:

Yeah, next time it'll only take me 2 days :D Eliminator is about £100 at current exchange rates! To fit just that and loop the hydraulics at the rear end is less than 2 hours work as long as the arms come off the ball joints OK (I used a 2 leg puller and 2 hammers).

Not really problems with it as such, I just hate things that try to drive for you. The feeling it gives on tightening bends used to drive me mad, had no confidence in it at all.

See other post. Use the top speed bar from courtesy, better than the stillen one as the ends are round so seal better about $195 To remove al the actuators you either need an NA pump + brackets (lots of grief). Or just tee the high pressure line from the HICAS side of the pump back into the return on the tank. Or pull the pump apart, remove veins from HICAS chamber and blank inlet/outlet.

Here are some pics of when I did this: Basically I did the whole hog, removed ALL hydraulics and lines, solenoids etc. 1) All the bits to do this job + cambelt change 2) TT vs NA pump - more than twice as big and heavy! 3) TT Tank and pump inlet modded and inlet fitted to NA pump 4) Rack vs Eliminator 5) Eliminator Fitted, notice poly diff bushes need to be modified: 6) Space!! 7) 25kg of unecessary rubbish!

I think that's a carbing brace. Looks identical to mine except anodised blue.

It does, but I think the value it assmues is > than the point where it opens the solenoid. I know certainly Vinz's car ran really rich on idle when his was knackered.

And with code 42 it'll run dead rich at low revs, unless you disconnect the PVPR system.

Cheers Niclas, useful advice as ever. I'll give it a shot. Andy P has been kind enough to lend me one to try, so if that fixes it I'll try cleaning mine and putting it back in.