John Dixon

Can anyone interested update the thread in the Gb forum please. Cheers

Spent the whole weekend working on the car. Did timing belt and HICAS removal. Now the bloody thing's rewarded me by detting like a bugger. Guess what ever was wrong at thor has got worse. Even pings at 3500rpm with a JWT map!! Guess that's another weekend of checking for fuelling probs and air leaks then :mad:

Or courtesy nissan for ~£100. Easy to fit if the arms come off the ball joints OK. Just don't start trying to remove all the pipe etc. it's a nightmare!

No, not at all. It's the best fitting one I've ever seen. I'll try to get a pic of it for you. Cheers

Danny, It's actually oval alloy, 1 piece. Got one on mine, but no pic.

Anyone know the correct procedure for bleeding the PAS, and what the nipple is for. It's next to the HICAS Solenoid (or the big space where mine was :) ) All I did was spin the wheel left to right loads of times and keep topping the fluid up.

Never seen a mines one you can map yourself. There are a couple of options. Greddy Emanage (not a true ECU but a piggyback thing), Apexi Power FC, any aftermarket motorsport system if you can be bothered doing the wiring, Ash's Zemulator (EPROM emulator with PC front end), or wait for the free Zcontrol to be finished.

The fuel maps aren't the problem on that one, it's the timing. TBH, it looks like all they did was lift the entire japanese stock timing map by 5deg! The high load sites aren't all that bad, but some of the light/mid load might cause problems. I'd always use optimax if I were you. DON'T run 95 RON with that amount of timing! BP Ultimate seemed OK to me, but remember someone used it and had det that went away when they filled with optimax (Pete Shrimp?).

I'd be a bit careful running that ECU on UK fuel at high boost. It's got some very aggressive timing!

In terms of acceleration etc. it will be totally negligible. The only power saving is not driving the HICAS pump. I did it because I hate the way HICAS handles and didn't see the point leaving all the hydraulics in there if the rack was gone. I was in there doing the cam belt anyway, so it seemed the best time to do it. Oh, and I've freed some space in the engine bay if I want to put a breather tank in there!

Some primeras do have the same suspension as a Zed on the front. It's not double wishbone really, sort of similar.

Oooooo jelaous, is it a manual too :bow: Looked for ages for one of those, but had to settle for a Tbar in the end. Still SWB though :)

Yeah, maybe! Got most of it done today other than the actual rear bar. It's pretty tricky actually. You need the NA mount (which is ali instead or iron and is 2kg lighter) and the alternator mount extension from an NA too as that forms part of the adjuster. The NA pump has more offset from the mount than a TT one, so you need to use the NA pully, which then means an NA belt (or cut one ridge from the TT one like I did !!!) PAS still working OK, so no problems I can see :cool:

Started stripping the HICAS off today while I was in there doing the timing belt. Basically found that to get rid of all the hydraulic pipe, solenoids etc. isn't too hard. You can use an N/A pump as I have, or by the looks of it open up the second chamber on the TT one and remove the veins from the impellar. NA is neater and much lighter though. For the resevoir you could get an NA one which would be neatest or use the TT one, block off the HICAS return line then modify the TT pump intake to fit the NA pump (Blank off the second inlet that would go to the HICAS section of the pump). Obviously you need the eliminator bar too! Will try to get some Pics tomorrow to show what's come off - it's quite surprising. Got to be 25kg there.

I can do it for you if you can't find anyone closer (Like Duff!). I'm in Kidderminster.

Can't remember the exact range it picks it up but it's only at a fairly narrow rev band and pretty high load from memory. TBH, if you've got a boost controller and JWT/SE ECU, then you don't really loose anything by bypassing it anyway.

Yeah, to bypass it stick a 1M ohm resistor across the connector.

Skyline has been done and is probably the best bet, as being Nissan at least some of the sensor ranges etc. will be the same. Cost is likely to be in the £1000's + engine - you'll need custom mounts, plumbing, propshaft, probably some mods to bulkheads etc to get it all in. Wiring it all up and getting things like the speedo reading, PAS etc all working again would be interesting too. I'd just stick with a VG30 TBH, and spend the cash the conversion would cost on a good rebuild if reliability is such an issue. It's not exactly a weak engine anyway. Most problems are electrical and a new engine loom is not that much.

You're not kidding, if you've got a plate diff like mine the whole car vibrates when you slip a wheel! Most improved thing IMO is traction. Much less wheel hop / tramp.

Paul, is this clutch alignment tool I've got your mate? PM me your address if it is and I'll send it back. Cheers

Excellent :dance:

I'd steer clear of Redstuff. Got them on mine with R34 GTR stuff. They're OK, but can be very noisy and you can still fade them a surprising amount after a few hard miles. Do work pretty well from cold though.

I'd go for the full Energy Suspension poly bush kit. It does make a huge difference, particularly the rear subframe mounts. Only thing to bear in mind is it's a big job to fit them. Front ones are pretty easy, it's the rears that take all the time. Allow a full day if you have access to a 2 post ramp and press. It means dropping and dissasembling the whole thing to fit them.

Yeah, all the maps are the same.

No, it shows code 34 because the sensor/wiring is bust I think!