John Dixon

The bin code is the contents of the EPROM downloaded on to a PC.

I usually try to use the one that goes to the stock boost gauge (far left of balance bar). It's because I don't think it's a great idea to tee into the ones that go to the FPR and pulse damper because if the line comes off you lean out.

If someone near you has a Conzult or EPROM programmer, then they can read the chip for you - if you send me the BIN file I'll have a look at it. Failing that myself/baggins/andy P should be able to do a replacement for you that's a known setup.

Conzult freeware that will work with the DIY interface is very limited. If you have a DIY interface, Danny can supply you the full conZult to work with it too. There's also Ztalk which has limited functionallity compared to the full conZult.

Jap and SWB, so might be a bit different? Also I guess your bumper is quite different inside?

Yeah, but I might have that sorted. A friend in Japan claims he can get me JWT530's (but the garratt badged ones) for ~£1000 a pair. They come without flange converters but I guess I can knock some of them up for that price!

Managed to make a resevoir from an old brake fluid bleeder last night. It's a bit small, probably ~750ml but it looks like it's only expansion room anyway, so should be OK. Airflow through the cooler should be much better now, as the whole back of it is unrestricted like the RHS one now. I'd take some pics but still don't have a digicam :( Between fitting these and the 555's, det seems to have gone :dance: Can't say I noticed a huge difference performance wise, but still running a pretty safe map at the minute, so hopefully that'll improve.

I think it's just TD06 and bigger you have to do this.

Fitted these last night with some help from Leigh again (cheers mate). Problem is I bought them second hand, so didn't get the hoses. I've used the stock hoses and they line up OK (Bracket lines up with tow eye bracket and the 2 holes on the fron line up with the ali plate) so I'm assuming they're in about the right position. I basically have 2 problems now. First, the coolant resevoir is forced out of place by the back of the cooler and will hit the wheel. 2nd, the bottom of the front arch liners hits the bottom of the coolers, so it dosen't sit right. Is this just me, or is it a common thing?! I've junked the carbon cannister anyway to free up the air flow around the LHS one, so a smaller coolant bottle would be good for this too. Anyone recommend a smaller coolant bottle (Topless?) Oh, and the bumper looks like it was fitted by Stevie wonder, but I guess that's because we put it back on in the dark!

Chris, I've done most of that stuff on mine, so can help you out over the phone if you want.

I'd guess that an air flow meter compensator is just another way of saying AFR, ie box that dicks about with the MAF signal. When it was running lean at the garage, was that on idle or under load on a rolling road? If it's just on idle then i'd say the diagnostic was crap as it will run lean under those conditions. Looking at your mods, if the turbos are bigger than stock, then you could be running lean at high revs/load just due to injectors being maxxed out. Is the problem you're having intermittant? What are the symptoms?

No problems! Just drop me a PM when you want them and we can sort it out. Cheers

I think A/R is something like the ratio of the turbine housing to the outlet.

TPS position, stuck idle control air valve, throttle position closed switch not making, air leak are probably most likely

Aahh thanks guys! Rich, didn't realise you had Tea, that's extra!! Leigh, just get you to do the coffee to stop you picking up tools and hurting yourself :tongue:

Hi mate, can sort this out for you. Drop me an email and I'll send you my number. Cheers

Nice to see you back Rich. Will drop you a line when I'm back from holiday about doing your stuff.

The thing you're talking about is the PAS fluid cooler. Euro models only AFAIK

Possibly a failed slave or master cylinder if the fluid level is OK. Or a split pipe.

That would be nice ...

Do the I/C drop straight on Stu. Got mine to do at the weekend but wondering how long it takes to see if I can fit it in. Cheers

Nah, these are about 3 sizes up on those! It's about $4500

If anyone's interested, I know where there's a twin Greddy T67-25G kit for sale with manifolds and wastegates! Supposed to be good for 1200RWHP :shock: Maybe just a little OTT!

PVPR isn't fuel tank purge, do a search, (maybe PRVR!) I tried to explain it recently. There it is: PVPR is pressure regulator vacuum relief system. It's designed to boost fuel pressure for starting or if fuel temp > a certain value. It works by switching the FPR's vacuum signal between manifold and a surge tank that is held at max boost pressure. Removing it saves some weight if you remove the solenoid and tank, and also simplifies the vacuum piping a bit. Also, it's less parts to go wrong / split on this crucial line. Removing it has the possible downside that the car may be harder to start, and you loose the (very little) protection it gives for the very unlikely hot fuel condition. I've had it off mine for ages and had no hassle what so ever starting it.

Stu, yes, it's the surge tank for the PVPR system. Connect the FPR straight to the manifold and you can remove the tank, the solenoid and the non-return valve.