nickz32

Just out of interest, for those of you who have retrimmed your seats.... Have any of you tried to add additional bolstering to any part of the seat? All im thinking is that while the kidney bolsters are what i would call sufficient, the upper part of the side bolsters which is around the shoulder area doesnt really offer any support. Im wondering if I could maybe add a bit more foam over that top area to make it a bit bulkier Thoughts

Ah ha...... found it..... knew it was somewhere http://www.websure.co.uk/car/300zxretrim.htm

Peeps Is there a guide anywhere on the forum showing how to swap out the bolsters on the front seats, how to re attach them once youve removed etc etc etc As per my other thread, my driver seat base is shagged so Ive managed to source a complete set of Series 4 seats in the same blue cloth as mine. They look in better condition (all be it dirty) but i wont know what the bolsters are like until i sit in them. Ive sussed out the cover removal (though not started yet), its just the foam bolsters im not sure about Ive had a search but cant find anything obvious Thanks

Guess its not needed on ITBs?

Cheeky *******! If anything ive lost weight!

Its scrap mate, there is no way id ever get that completely straight again

Problem found!

Hey Im having a bit of an issue with my drivers seat Over the last few months a problem has appeared where the back rest of my drivers seat is twisting during hard cornering. The inside of the seat (JDM car so Right hand drive) leans further back and points my body towards to center of the car. The only way I have found to put the seat back into a straight position is to reach around the back of the seat and physically pull the seat straight again. When the seat is straight, it doesnt immeadiately collapse back into its twisted state, it does require some weight to re twist it. Whether its straight or twisted, the adjustment that changes the angle of the back rest seems to work as it should. It doesnt feel like any gears on the adjuster have been stripped First of all, has anyone else had this problem? Can anyone suggest what part of the seat has failed? Like I mention, i dont think the frame is snapped as it doesnt collapse back into twisted state. Does anyone have a picture of a stripped down seat? I dont really want to have to completely strip down the seat if its not nessacary and the part that has failed doesnt require stuff like the bolsters to be removed (I count myself lucky in that i have the original seats that have no sagging of the bolsters etc etc etc, so id rather not hack them up if I dont have to) Oh, these are manual seats not electric Cheers

RIP Barry Same as Jimmer, been here as long as I can remember. Just shows how short life can be sometimes

On a budget to get the "best" out of a stock engine, you basically want to make it breath as efficiently as possible and reduce as much unsprung mass as possible. Something along these lines should be a guide Wiesco Pistons and Rings Stock rods (If i remember correctly, stock rods are pretty strong, pistons not so much. I cracked a ring land on a stock piston on stock boost and timing. Never found out what caused it) ACL Big end and Crank bearings Check valves are seated properly - if not, regrind (you want compression to be as good as possible) If you can stretch, a mild port and polish on the heads 2.5 inch intercooler piping Uprated intercoolers AMS Exhaust manifolds Divorced Down Pipes Decat pipes Light weight pulley kit Light weight flywheel Youll need an uprated clutch to run circa 400hp (I run RPS Street max, but ive heard good things about the High 5 paddle clutch recently) 555 injectors or Adjustable fuel pressure reg (Speak to Noz about this about which he thinks is best route to be safe on fuelling) Boost controller

Aaaaaaaaaah, for rears, yeah superstreets will be fine

Take it you cant wait for 4000 Series slotted? Thats what id go for and what I currently run (not for much longer, got a tasty conversion in the pipeline). They took a shed load of abuse at a Goodwood track day recently and took everything i could throw at them (with DS2500 pads) Braking down from 145mph to about 50mph every couple of minutes and not a sign of warping. Every other stock sized disc ive run has warped under those conditions (EBC, 3G, Tarox)

Dont go for the street series bud, they are basically the bottom of the range DBA's and no better than EBC's for warping

I always thought they were T25 intake and T3 exhaust, hence the 2530 name, with ball bearing CHRA's

Bloody hell, would be good to catch up some time bud

Very Very good drivers car. Id test drive it before i dismissed the offer

Awesome! It's in the way of something I'm trying to do, and I've not run cats in about 6 years. Out the bugger comes!

Peeps, Have been doing a few bits and bobs to the zed today, mainly electrical, where the center console has been out. I came across this underneath the cubbyhole/arm rest Can anyone tell me what it is (the black box with braided hoses), whats its purpose and what the two braided lines go to? Cheers in advance

Slotted mate

Hence why i linked Got my full DBA setup from them at a very good price!

http://www.clarkmotorsport.co.uk/

They got any pics of the LWB version?

Well im sorry, but you clearly havent studied the WSM properly (oh, there is no 94+ WSM AFAIK) Clearly says that the ABS diagnostics uses the dash light. people are trying to help you buy saying that it may not be a bleeding issue and it would be worth considering looking elsewhere for a fault.... otherwise whats the point in asking for help....

The ABS diagnostics is done via the ABS light on the dash, not the pump. Read the manual, its very helpful for diagnostics... HTH

TBH i think your focusing too much on the differences between ABS pumps with and without bleed nipples. Ive bled the brakes on my 95 on numerous occasions in my ownership and never had a problem with the bleeding cycle as per the WSM (and obviously deducting the bleeding points for the ABS pump from that cycle) and never had a problem with an air lock within the ABS pump. Im not saying there is not a possibility of an air lock in the pump, but if the system is bled enough there is no reason why the lock would not circulate itself through the system during a bleeding cycle. Have you gone through the Diagnostics for the ABS system as per the work shop manual (Page 25 of section BR) It may well be that the ABS system has a fault