nickz32

I actually find drying puts more swirls in than washing to be honest mate. From those pics, they look like really fine swirls, so you I would guess you won't need a cutting compound to get rid of those at all. A straight polishing compound should clear those up no problems. Just take your time and make sure your properly prime your polishing pads

I'll be there Nick/Nickz32

I am going to write a thread in the future about what I have found about the stock z fuel system, but I need to complete my new setup to make sure my theory to resolve the flaw is actually sound. Once I can prove my theory I'll post up

Clearly out of practice with this forum malarkey, was meant to be quoting Birds post about him being a little worried

As long as you don't run under a 1/4 of a tank at WOT, you should be ok

1995 LWB TT Manual - - - Updated - - - JDM of course

I spoke to him today. He's in finer spirits today and has had all the ops he needs for the foreseeable future. Luckily his knee joint escaped unscathed and the rest is skeletal damage that been pinned and plated with a couple of skin grafts to boot. He's hoping to out of hospital fairly soon once he's got a bit of mobility back

Lee, keep it simple mate. First of all I WOULDNT lock out your hicas just that. The car is a ROAD car not a track weapon or drifter (where the argument around hicas delete is made). The HICAS (when properly working) gives you low-mid speed agility and high speed stability. If you want to be able to get the correct geometry settings you need the following FRONT Adjustable upper control arms - camber FRONT adjustable tension rods - caster Rear adjustable control arms - camber That's effectively all you need for a road car. There are then NUMEROUS modifications to change various aspects of how the car feels/responds/behaves which can be done at a later time. - - - Updated - - - *hicas just yet. (Poxy auto correct)

Going with my two besties, one in a Gen 1 Legacy turbo with a 2.5 forged engine I built and the other in his 83 Porsche 944 that I'm helping him refurb. There will deffo be pic and hopefully a bit of drone footage of us on some of the passes. Si told me all about your trip, pics were superb

It's only a quick 5 day jaunt. Spending 3 days in Brig in Switzerland to spend time exploring as many passes as possible (Grimsel, Furka, Gotthard, Susten and a couple of others) then up to the Ring for a couple of days. I've put off a trip to the Alps and the Ring for too long, decided while it's not the big 2 week 3000 mile road trip I've had planned for the last 6 years, it's better than nothing!

Varrstoen MK2 (CZP are a varrstoen dealer)

Personally can't stand Pirelli's, regardless of how good they are in the dry (pilot sports are better imho) the last set of p-zeros I had on the z were frankly dangerous in the wet. Never ever will I have a car shod with Pirelli! Potenza S02 is still the best tyre I've ever had on a Z, but ultra rare now. I'd love to run Pilot Sport 2's, but I don't have a spare grand that I'd need for my tyre sizes. Running Falkens at the moment. As mentioned, a good mid range tyre. Don't have the most outright grip, but the manner they behave when they lose grip is progressive and predictable in my experience.

I get back from my euro trip a few days before, so as long as the car makes it back unscathed, I'll be there

Feature wise, it doesn't seem to bring anything new to the table

Tried banzai breakers? Fairly sure he's just bought another z for breaking

Steamer and lots of microfibre cloths

The alarm bells went off for me when he said he couldn't get a good colour match. Find a different body shop

I should be doing a couple of airfield days this year as a way to fine tune my fast road setup/post build shakedown and reacquaint myself with my cars power levels. I'm off to the Alps and the ring later in the year, so that's prob enough for my wallet for one year

I wouldn't be disappointed by any negative feed back, more curious to see where a journo who drives more different cars than most of us combined will ever drive feels that the z falls down in the company of the type of cars in the feature. That then would give some of us ideas if we agree with those negatives on how to rectify them

What's the bad?

And it took 112c water temp and 120c oil temp to do that. For such a drop in oil pressure, you'd be looking for a failed oil pump, a significant oil leak, or an internal failure of an oil way.

Mine blew due to det. Nope, head was a straight as a straight thing. Sod knows how!

Mine was sat for two years with a head gasket this badly warped, had a TINY bit of emulsified oil in the block, certainly not two litres!

That's a HUGE amount of water for a blown HG! I'd second the theory of a cracked block. Shitty news for you fella

+1 to Joel's comments. I run the zeta-r on my car (SWB spec springs on a lwb car) as I wanted to go back to a more compliant set up after living with Jap spec Tein Coilovers. For general road use I have the dampers on their softest setup and the spring pre load wound back to "zero" to get as compliant a ride as possible. I made up a spring compression marker so I can set the pre load I was happy with for track use and tweek the damping as I see fit. As for quality, I'd probably give them a 8/10. The anodising of the damper body and top mount have held up to year round use well, but the powder coating on the spring began to flake off after about 3 years. While I understand the Meisters are not a premium suspension product in the grand scheme of things (they're no Ohlins) I would have hoped the Spring coating would have lasted a little longer