nickz32

1. Bigh 2. Alic 3. Craig (am staying in Romsey Fri&Sat night, so can do a club drive out/Haynes/Bovington meet on the Saturday if any interest?) 4. tom1990 (if im loud ) 5. AndrewG 6. kgonzokia 7. nickz32 +2

Welcome back buddy

Err, more like fancy seeing you here!

Swapped in my OE ECU, no change However today I ripped out the replacement speedo converter I fitted a few months back and low and behold, the power steering is back to normal I can feel the HICAS working as per normal Oddly though, the CONZULT diagnostics is still giving the same readings. As I’ve never been able to get my car into hicas diagnostic mode with the whole left right of steering wheel brake pedal 5 time gumpf, I’m now starting to wonder if I have always had some form of problem in my 10 years of ownership and never really known about it

Well I’ve been through the workshop manual and can’t find a single thing wrong with any of the inputs (steering angle, neutral position etc etc)

So in this process, section B, I’m only getting 0.2v to pin 36

Throw a bit more data into the mix: Just had a look on the engine tab on Conzult (with stock ECU in place). On that tab, it has vehicle speed as 2mph (I’m still stationary at this point without the engine running), but HICAS is seeing 11mph Also, with the engine running, I’m getting 13.5v going to the plug of the steering solenoid 5.5ohm resistance on the steering solenoid

No, only the FSM that’s online (which is ‘93?)

I for one actually like it..... when it works

Sorry everyone, I completely forgot I posted this thread on this issue a while back https://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?187449-Issues-whilst-conducting-HICAS-diagnostics This new thread probably describes the symptoms better than the previous thread. I’ll be checking PS solenoid voltage and HICAS rack solenoid volatge later this afternoon. However, given that every single bit of data on the screen grab is wrong, Says engine is idling at above 1500rpm - ENGINE IS OFF Vehicle speed of 11mph - VEHICLE IS STATIONARY 7323 deg I’d lock yet neutral position sensor is active I suspect the HICAS ECU may have failed. I can’t seem to find any similar instances of failure though

HICAS and Power Steering Issue: Car is a JDM 1995 Series 4 TT with the ELECTRONIC Hicas, not the hydraulic. Ok, so for a little while I’ve been suffering with the usual Heavy Steering issues. This issue appeared shortly after fitting my Haltech Plat Pro. After a little while longer I noticed my speedo was dropping out, which I assumed was my kph to mph converter. Switched converter, speedo returned to normal function (and is as accurate as I would expect when comparing to GPS speed) but power steering symptoms persisted. A further symptom arose where it now feels like the HICAS is in “high speed mode” and feels like the back wheels are turning in the same direction as the front wheels and stopping the car from “pivoting”, even at low speeds. I ran a CONZULT diagnostic and got some very odd readings. I wondered if the Haltech was causing issues with the Conzult system, so switched in my original 16bit ECU and got the same results (pictured). When I took this picture, the engine was NOT running and the vehicle was stationary. The sensors in the HICAS diagnostic appear unresponsive to change. I’ve checked CONZULT functionality, and everything else I can test, such as solenoid function, work fine. I believe conzult is functioning properly. Anyone got any ideas

Well after several emails, phone calls and complaints I finally managed to pursuade Michelin to replace both my rear tyres. Further more, I managed to get them to agree for me to have a different tyre. I’d decided that aesthetically I didn’t like the 35 profile tyres as they were a bit balloony. Unfortunately, they don’t make the Super sport in 30 profile. So I managed to get a set of 295/30zr18 N4 rated Pilot Sport 2’s. These were meant to arrive on Monday, then Tuesday..... then the courier somehow lost them so they didn’t arrive until this afternoon, which meant I missed today’s dyno slot. Sometimes I wonder if this thing will ever get mapped! Anyway, I decided to bring it home to enjoy this glorious weather, even if it means staying off boost. It safe to say she still makes my willy tingle Just waiting for a date for next week for more dyno time

All purpose cleaner mixed to a 1 in 4 ratio with warm water and a soft bristle brush for anywhere that’s painted. I also find it helps if you have any rags, dip them in really hot water and then cover the area you want to work on. Leave it for a few minutes to soften the grime up before going at it with the APC. If that doesn’t cut through it try a dedicated tar remover (autoglyms one is available in most Halfords). Anything else use a stiff brush. Personally find Gunk drys out really quickly

Post a pic so we know what sort of grime we’re talking about mate

Already have, he sold it a while back

Ditto with Series 4 I see you’ve got the CC stork though.... that’s the last bit I’m trying to hunt down to retrofit cruise control to my car.

I’m curious now? Figuring out plugs for the late steering angle sensor?

Interesting. Would that expansion tank have fitted where the OE one would sit? (Or was that that you meant by inside the wing is a no goer?) It’s something I want to look into (clearing space being the intercoolers) If you need any help getting it back on the road, give me a shout

Well I’ve spoken to Michelin directly, and they’ve asked me to take the tyres back to the retailer for inspection/warranty claim.. I’m going to push for both tyres to be changed, given that the failure has happened inside the structure of the tyre, it’s not going to be visible from a visual inspection of the thread (unless it has started to go and we haven’t spotted it yet). Fingers crossed for a positive outcome and some new, less explody, rubber

I only glanced at the other side, but looked pretty similar

Yeah, nothing obvious apparent. The rollers were re knurled about 6 months ago

There was no signs of any wheel spin on the dyno, as that was one of my first thoughts around the heat being generated. Given how grippy the knurled rollers are, I would have expected a lubricant issue fairly early on during the dyno session, but given how hot they got I think it would safe to assume it would ha e been burned off pretty quickly I’ve messaged and tweeted Michelin UK asking about a warranty claim. Even if I’d done a mahooosive burnout at 45psi tyre pressure, I wouldn’t expect to see that kind of failure until the tread was well worn. As you can see from the pic, everywhere Bar the delaminated part looks pretty brand new. Here’s hoping Michelin are willing to replace them (not holding out though, luck doesn’t appear to be on my side at the moment)

No slip at all, still at wastegate boost pressures at 360ish HP

Well, I’m in a fairly down beat mood. Yet again, another tyre failure. This time a 50 miles of use Michelin Same side as the last failure. No signs of it catching or rubbing anywhere on the tyre. 32psi when cold, 45psi hot. None of us (myself or the tuner) have any idea what on Earth is going on. He’s never had a failure in 10 years of tuning, never mind two on the same car on the same wheel Yet again, exasperated :(

Crikey, didnt expect to get a bite THAT quickly! :wheelchair: