nickz32

Bit more fettling today. Test fitted the support bar for the scuttle panel. Now just need to sand back the surface corrosion, treat, prime and repaint. Also had a bit of a faff with the bov’s. I managed to reuse the silicon joiners that were previously fitted, but swapped them around to different angles, so they now sit like this I refitted the auxiliary fan to make sure nothing fouled. Luckily everything all good on that front. Will have to wait until the AC condensor arrives before I settle on what orientation the BOV’s sit at. I suspect that sitting as they are in the pic, I may be too close to the condensor, so I’ll have to spin them round 90 degrees. I’m also going to order some new black silicon pipes, not a fan of the blue! Still got the following on the “to do” list before the engine goes back in Reconnect steering Identify any steering issue Steering rack bushes Recon starter motor Clean engine bay Sort fuel line heat shield Replace gear linkage bushing Reinstall centre exhaust hanger Test Actuators

Today I addressed one of the little things that’s been bothering me. For the last couple of years, the bonnet panel gap across the front has lifted due to someone jacking the car up on the lower radiator support. You can just about see it in some of the pics of my car. The bonnet only sits a couple of mm proud of where it should, but to me it’s noticable...... devils in the details and all. Having removed the AC condensor (which I’m replacing) I had a good look at the lower rad support. While there is some deformation on the underside, there was nothing apparent on the upper side. Infact it’s in pretty good condition with only a small amount of surface corrosion, which I shall treat. I removed the 12mm and 10mm bolts that attach the brace to the bonnet latch, and gently pressed down on the upper scuttle panel until I got the desired contact on the headlight seals With very little effort and a bit of tweaking of the bump stops on the scuttle panel, I managed to get the bonnet to sit where it should I reinstalled the brace and inspected the bolt holes I decided than rather go for the full surgery and try an massage the lower rad support, and potentially damage it further, that I’m going to elongate the holes in the support bracke, given I only need to increase the slots by about 5mm, I shouldn’t have any issue when I refit the new AC condensor. I’ve also decided that I want to improve the fitting of my HKS SSQV’s. When everything is in place, they kind of sit up along side the filters, but they have a habit of flopping around a bit. I’m going to have a bit of a measure and see if there is room for me to weld the bosses directly into the IC piping, where the port that the BOV’s are fed from. If not, I’ll have to try and maybe make a support bracket and some better suited angled silicon piping, just to tidy things up down there. Hopefully tomorrow I’ll be able to start some of the other engine bay work I had planned, sorting more heat shielding for the fuel lines, general cleaning and investigating a notch I can feel through the steering on right hand turns (even with the engine off)

As people seem to be self nominating, I shall throw my cap in and offer my 1995 Series 4 Twin Turbo 2+2 that I have owned for neigh on 11 years. It has undergone quite a few changes and a lot of work over the last few years, all of which has been documented in my build thread https://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?188495-My-daughter-calls-it-Toothless-the-Dragon-My-%9195-TT-Z The spec is as follows: Engine/Powertrain/Drivetrain 88mm CP Pistons Saenz Forged Con Rods King XP main and big end bearings EP Racing Thermal Barrier Piston Coating EP Racing High Performance Bearing Coating EP Racing Billet Crankshaft Cap kit EP Racing High Capacity baffled Sump v2 ARP main crank and head studs EP Racing modified crank EP Racing modified oil pump Ross Performance dampened crank pulley with 12 tooth Timing Ring and Hall Effect sensor Ross Performance Camshaft Trigger Kit (CAS Elimination kit) EP Racing “Street” profile CNC Head Port SuperTech 0.5mm valves SuperTech dual coil valve springs and titanium spring retainers BDE v2 intake VTC pulleys Power Enterprises Kevlar timing belt EP Racing belt tensioner AMS exhaust manifolds Z1 GT525 turbos AMS 3in expansion down pipes, full 3in exhaust system WinFactory top feed fuel rail with Injector Dynamics 1050x (1065cc) injectors Z1 SMIC modified with 2.5in flanges Setrab 19 row oil cooler AMS alternator/power steering pulleys All built by EP Racing CZP 2.5in IC piping HKS SSQV4 BOV’s Koyo radiator Haltech Platinum Pro Stand-alone ECU, with 3 bar map sensor, IAT sensor, 3 port boost solenoid, fuel pressure sensor, Bosch wideband O2 sensors and Haltech WBC2 controller Turbosmart FPR2000 fuel pressure regulator Full -8 fuel line from tank to rail and return with Torques AN fittings Custom Billet fuel tank lid with AN fittings and custom pump holder Walbro 485 fuel pump RPS Streetmax Clutch SZ segmented flywheel CZP 1 piece clutch line Chassis Meister R Zeta R coil overs Nismo and Tein from suspension area Whiteline Rear suspension arms Evo X brembo front callipers with DBA5000 2 piece discs Varsstoen ES2 18x9.5J ET22 front 18x10.5J ET30 Rear (Michelin Pilot Sport 2 255/35 and 295/30) Body Stillen Type iii splitter TwinZ fog light ducts Smoothed stone guard on sills and Rear bumper WinFactory CSL-R spoiler All window seals and trim pieces renewed Carbon Fibre windscreen scuttle panels Interior Alpine ICE Defi gauges OMP dishes steering wheel

I think Si has hacked Gaz’s account....

I always thought this award was automatically awarded to FunkySi?

Personally find the 350Z underwhelming. The interior feels decidedly french, it’s significantly slower than an TT Z, it’s not as good looking (subjective I know) and the engine feels lathargic for an 3.5 litre NA. Best thing you can do is drive your 300 to a test drive if a 350, drive the 350 then get back in your 300. Then you’ll soon realise that while the 300 is older, it’s just simply better.

Didn’t their used to be a “best Thread” competition, I might be going back a few years mind

Welcome to the club!

Personally, I think the more important thing to consider with the majority of crank pulleys on the market, is that they’re solid one piece items with no harmonic dampener. The purpose of the dampeners is to remove/reduce the harmonic frequencies that pass through the crank shaft during the stages of a 4 stroke combustion engine. By removing that dampener you’re increasing the wear on your bearings due to an increase in harmonic vibrations.

There is an ABS system diagnostic you can do, fairly sure it’s in the FSM, flashes the ABS light to give codes for wheel speed sensors etc

Which Aeroquip FPR your running mate? As to the question about running a dampener or not, it kinda depends on the diaphragm in your FPR. If it’s a big enough diaphragm, then it will be able to sufficiently dampened the pulses from the pump/opening and shutting of the injectors. One of the reasons I chose my Turbosmart FPR was down to its design and its ability to act as a fuel dampener aswell as an FPR Given that your car is already mapped, I’d be more inclined to run a dampener than not as the pulses I mention can effect injector characteristics. So you have two options in my opinion. An after market Dampener (Radium Engineering make a nice bit of kit) or you buy a weld on AN fitting and modify the OE dampener. Which fuel rails are you running?

Probably Javid

That woman will never get my vote. Those who know my profession will know why. Yep, the timing sucks, can’t disagree with that. But she needs to go. As for the poll, I voted leave because of some of the points around the undemocratic power of the European Council, but also as I saw it as an opportunity. It could have been an opportunity to forge relationships outside of the EU on our own terms, but due to the obvious incompetence of the petulant idiots that run this country, I now believe that those opportunities have been lost. We were too hasty to invoke A50 and should have waited until WE had our shit sorted out, not because we were pressured into it. I have no faith in our government being able to agree a proper deal with the EU, never mind any future deals with the world wide community. At this point in time, should a second referendum come about, I’d vote remain purely down to Having zero confidence in the U.K. government

Welcome along

Yesterday I managed to source a second hand SZ segmented flywheel for a very reasonable price, which is now making its way to EPR. I may have to buy replacement segments for it, but even if I do, I’ll have made a decent savings over a new item

Hahahahaha...... hopefully in 12 weeks!

Boxed up my heads, manifolds, down pipes, turbine housings, lower Plenum, backing plates, block water pipes and a few other bits and bobs ready to be sent to EPR tomorrow. £170 for a 6 day delivery with TNT/FedEx.... not too bad considering it weighs 90KG

Gutted for you fella. Glad to hear you’re ok.... yet another stark reminder to people that Z’s are old cars now, and perform like old cars when it comes to collisions. Again, glad you’re ok

For anyone that’s on FB, you’ll find my engine under the album name “UK’s Black Betty” on the EP Racing page. I can’t link the album (stoopid FB) but you’ll be able to see the album from this post I’ll be posting a selection of the pics that Mitch posts on here anyway, but he usually describes certain processes of his builds on FB if any of you have interest in seeing the machining that’s going into my build. As before, if anyone has any Q’s, please feel free to ask.... I don’t bite!

First bunch of parts have arrived...

Happy bday Gary!

I do, .Zircotech, but they have quoted £350 more than EP Racing are charging me for the same product

Yet more money.... So having contemplated the thermal management side of things, as well as my previous bad history with heat wrap, I wanted to look at alternative solutions for reducing engine bay temps. Initially I thought about making a heat shield that fit my manifolds properly and then insulating certain components with a decent quality gold insulator. But having completed a reasonable amount of research, there appears to be reasonable doubt as to the effectiveness of such products (gold coated insulation). I also thought about using a turbo blanket for the hot side of each turbo. However I have decided to go down the ceramic coating route. I spoke to Jaffa about the results he had when ceramic coating his exhaust parts and he gave very positive feedback. So I will be having my manifolds, turbine housings and down pipes all ceramic coated by EP Racing. This should give me a significant reduction in engine bay temps aswell as reduce the amount of heat soak the engine suffers with.

No worries I personally trimmed them down and fed them back through the holes in the floor and put some rubber bungs in the holes to seal them ip

They’re the cat converter temp sensors, to detect cat over heat. It’s pretty common practice when the car has been de-catted to cut the cables as the temp sensors are normally stuck in the cats. In short, nothing to worry about