greg

i cant 100% say the rears will be fine but 10" on the front might be a bit to much most have 8.5" maybe even 9" but 10" :confused: ride might be a bit ruff LOL

have you had the prop bearing checked for play,this is a common problem on the 300

sorry i disagree to grab attention of other jap owners i think the money ebay make out of people there being a bit OTT doesnt bother me as some items for EG a boost controller can be fitted for many applications ie 300 rx7 skyline,so i dont see the problem personally IMO

EGR exhaust gas recurcultion you wont see the pipes anyway LOL there down the sides of the plenum and work all the way round the back,not worth the hassle of fitting,better to just remove EGR weld it up LOL top bargain on rps flywheel and clutch saves you over £300 nice good combo

best bet maybe is to get hold of a FPR fuel pressure regulator,you can pick one up for around £15 all you need is a gauge that reads more than 50psi,failing that remove hose before damper hold over jerry can and see if your getting fuel either when pump primes .ie. when key is turned to on position,then try it whilst trying to start the car,check you have good fuel flow,then you rule that out ;)

dont see luke @ z-centre on here for 2years then 6posts come along,tell winter is here :D

check fuel damper and regulator,fuel pumps are not that common to fail

either your alternator belt ;) or you have left the misses gaged up in the boot still to solve this problem sell the z and the whining will soon be over :D

so your 19 and you have no credit card to pay for your subscription :nono: :D you could always go halfs with miss astrassuck £10 not bad for `1400posts ;)

;)

LOL reread your coming up anyhow :D

iaa unit is one but it could be a few things ajusting the base idle wont cure erratic idle,if you have an auto and the revs drop as soon as it is put in gear,might be worth checking the TPS is set to around the 0.40-0.50v mark,clean connections including injector connectors as you may be missing on a cylinder causing the car to run odd!consult is a good place to start,as this will show up the main signals from the ecu,your welcome to pop over to z-tech which aint a million miles away based in wiltshire,we can perform a consult for you FOC and can do a boost leak test ;) ring ryan@z-tech on..07968166640 greg

LMAO :bow:

sorry to read this rich,hope it gets sorted fella-deserve to be like most others and be able to walk properly,chin up mate best wishes greg&familey

true :nelson:

PMSL so true lol englands answer to compton :D if you want piece and quite cornwall area is about as beutiful as the uk can get south wales is very tidy indeed ;) nice beaches,weather in 3weeks will be cold miserable :(

iv not seen one before,and i see lots and lots of zeds,perhaps it has the iluminated mod done,im sure vinni will let us know :D

:confused: ;) no centre panel has twin turbo on it mick

wheres the interesting topics ? not enough talk about 300s as you say gone quite knobbers who bullshit but then there are alot of good people on this forum,so i stick around ;) Sorry for the hijack LMAO

bee gee vinz stylee :D

no need for a drill,thats old hat wheres manta :x: :D

fookin el loadsa post diggers lately,do you work in the morgue PMSL ;)

you obviously have a series 1 car pre 92 after that series 2 300s were fitted with much better heater controls,where you can actually direct air flow to where you want it,buy a 93 onwardd model and you will be fine :D :rofl: some people have done a series 2 upgrade although apparently it doesnt always work you would need a fair few parts to do it to ;)

right as you have electric then you wont have a thick mechanical pipe to feed the filter tree housing so... you can run wire through bonnet release if you use a metal coat hanger and bend it out straight so you can push it through,failing that if you open drivers door and at the bottom you can see where the speaker wires etc pass through the door,you can pass any wires up and in through the wing,unbolt wing all down oneside then pass wire/s up through and in to engine bay!becareful with boost pipes etc so you dont kink them as for using a ground source there are many places you can ground it off,its not vital to ground it as close as possible it will still work a little distance away,if you dont have enough wireing then find some wire same diameter and make extra by using a spade or block connector,cant beat simple mechanical gauges IMO much more reliable,electrical ones just look more modern i guess dont use OEM wireing as you will be getting crap readings so you need to make up new surces ie water[boss welded in to a smithy hardpipe or a greddy water temp adaptor boost [obviously of a vaccuem line using a t-piece oil[feed from the oil filter.although im not up on electrical oil pressure gauges,im use to mechanical ones but im sure mr greddy will help you with the oil press one HTH greg

thought you meant the forum as id then agree with you!