AndyP

I think he's done all the right things so far and covered all the obvious problems. What he really needs is someone to actually go and look at it - a bit far away for me though.

Too right ! The trick is not doing it in the middle of December like I did. Was easy taking everything apart, car was still warm, all the pipes were soft etc. However, next day getting the then cold, rock hard, rubber pipes onto the new intercoolers was a real bitch. It's also much easier to get the front bumper on with two (or more) people ....

Mini-meet at my gaff then ! Anyone else ? ;)

Would be happy to help you out if you can bring the car round my place (about 15 miles north of Harlow), if you want.

Hey, most of those cars were at North Weald on Sunday !!!! LOL :D

Ahh, seems I'll be a bit further away than I thought (well over 100 miles) probably won't be able to make it. :(

Macca, If this is the weekend of the 30th then I might be around your way somewhere ! Got my passport ready ... ;)

The daughter of a Don of Divinity Always protected her virginity The Fellows are Magdalene Must have been dawdling It would never have happened at Trinity !

Vijay, I've double checked both your personal and the forum settings and they look correct. I still get email notifcations when I get PM's, but I have noticed that they can sometimes take a long time - I had put that down to BT's email system. Silly question but I presume that the email addresses you have configured are still valid ?

Maybe not much help, but they certainly are in a Jap Seriess II, because they have the same belts as a UK car.

Just unscrew them and tuck them back up through the holes from whence they came. No need to do anything else, except block up the holes with a new grommet.

A teaspoon full or two at most I would say.

What happens is that the filter on the oil pump intake gets blocked with crud, therefore, no oil pressure, no drive. You may get away with a filter clean and oil change, but will more likely need a box rebuild, but presumably without the torque convertor change. Sounds a bit like warranty work to me, if the box has been apart before ....

OK, see what you mean. No import duty required, as long as it's paid at source within an EEC member state already. Anyway, do you have to pay duty on Olives ? Are we far enough off track yet ? :D

No duty to pay in Greece, it's now part of the EEC. ;)

So are you volunteering to help ?

No, it doesn't matter if the balance bar is attached.

There is a small PCB mounted potentiometer mounted on the rear of the speedo circuit board. I think that this will adjust the speedo in some way. In order to get to it whilst driving you will need a small flat blade screwdriver, the dashcover over the speedo removed and a carefully drilled hole in the top of the speedo casing. For safety's sake you will also need a passenger to do the adjusting and check the GPS - unless you have an accurate rolling road to hand of course.

My converted Jap spec one was spot on, according to my GPS - I guess it may have been set-up on a rolling road. However, my replacement UK spec speedo reads approx. 4-6mph fast. Must get around to twiddling it one day ....

You'd be loosing one hell of a lot of fuel for it to be doing that little to the gallon ! Mine does around 20 and it dropped to 17 when one of the O2 sensors died - that is one of the most likely causes. It will be easiest to diagnose if you have access to a ConZult or Techtom.

As Andy confirmed the idle is increased when the aircon is running. On my car it's about 250-300 rpm more. According to my Techtom the temp will increase by about 5 deg C on hot days. As the aircon rad is directly infront of the main rad, temp will also increase by up to about another 10 deg C when the aircon is running. I have noticed that running a UK rad over a Jap spec rad brings temp down by approx 5 deg C.

Maybe we're just nice people. ;) There's no real right or wrong answer to this. I would like people to feel 'obliged to pay' rather than force them to. Of course if everyone who registed to use the site paid then it would probably only be a couple of quid each ... Trouble is people have the view that stuff on the Internet is free - of course that isn't true, it's usually just the case that someone else pays - just like now.

If you are still seriously interested in it, get a proper inspection, get a chassis alignment check and most important, get a vehicle history check - that may show up whether it has been a crash repair.

But I'm back now (well mostly anyway) ;)

The ConZult can't tell you what the ignition timing is, only what the ECU thinks it is - you need a timing light on the crank pulley to prove that.