AndyP

Don't misunderstand, it's not about sympathy, it's reality - you'll probably find that most people here have spent a pile of cash on repairs of some sort after they bought the car. In may case it was also the autobox, and that was on a 7 year old car that had only covered 30,000m and had recently cost me £15k to buy.

You are unlikely to fully recoup the money you spent on the gearbox by selling the car. Think longer term - keep it ! You know it makes sense ;)

It's not such a dumb idea (well OK, it's is quite dumb. LOL;)), but I'd often wondered why some of that nice clean excess rainwater isn't used to top up the windscreen washers ... Capturing enough to squirt on the intercoolers would be a bit of a challenge though and even water injection systems use a surprising amount of water - plus you'd still have to remember to put the 50% methanol in ! :D

I think the general concensus is that £8-9K for an early car is a lot of money. However, if it is genuinely a minter and mechanically perfect and you can guarantee that nothing will go wrong and the mods are what you want then it may be worth it. However, if all of the above isn't true then it may not. The real sticking point is can you guarantee that nothing mechanical will go wrong - the car is approx 14 years old ! Listen to others experience and make your own mind up.

Works for me (and we have something against everyone !) LOL

Lots of useful pictures on the Aus forum that may help in the descriptions :- http://www.aus300zxclub.com/photodb/photomain.htm

Yup, DNS probs. Try using the link at the bottom of this post, and remember that many of the articles are on http://www.twinturbo.net

My Celerons can get up to about 49C and they're heavily overclocked ! My fave monitoring utilites are Fanspeed and MotherBoard Monitor.

So what advice do you want ? Old cars can go wrong .....

I always crimp and then solder if possible. In this instance I would effectively make a new loom for all the injectors and take the wires as far back as possible, all the wiring in the engine bay will have been affected by heat/age and this is a good opportunity to replace some of the really bad bits.

Hmm, I've also acquired a couple of cans, plus a can of lubricant. Not sure how easy it is to get it from the can to the system though ....

The control box is very likely to be fitted in the centre console somewhere, it's about the size of a fag packet. It should be securely attached because it has tilt sensor in it I believe. Central locking is a feature of that alarm, but it may not be enabled, because they installer would need to add an additional motor for the passenger door. Could your your big end rattle be pinking/detenation ?!?

Camber is not easily adjustable on the fronts and lowering springs will certainly affect the camber. However, tracking can also be an issue. Too much toe-out will cause additional wear to the inside of the tyres. The cars should have toe in as standard.

In that case checking the timing would be a good idea.

Hmmm, and what about the US propaganda machine going into overdrive about the female soldier getting shot/stabbed/imprisioned etc. Story is changing a little now eh ? .... Maybe she was the map reader (joke of course)

Just as a bit of anecdotal info, for those people who have had an auto/manual conversion ... If you connect the neutral switch from the manual gearbox up to the ECU (something like pin 40 between the ECU and the autobox controller), when you hold down the clutch and put the box into any gear the revs rise about 300rpm. Dunno why though, but obviously this was required for the auto box. As for the idle speed being too high, this does happen occasionally on mine and with the Techtom you can see that the AAC valve is usually stuck open around 85%, this should be nearer 15-20% on tickover. SMW1 had a similar problem with high tickover and IIRC it turned out to be an air leak somewhere.

I'm trying to but the DNS record has been ripped out by the peasants from whom I rent the name. And I've paid the bill !!! :mad: Mike Groves might be able to help temporarily by passing on the IP server address, but I'm trying to get it sorted officially !

If it's not done it before then most likely it's a poor batch of fuel on a hot day. What are you using and is your car Jap or UK ?

Stu's dad, the naked welder - brave man ! LOL :D

Looks OK. More here too :- http://www.ebuyer.com/customer/products/index.html?action=c2hvd3N1YmNhdGVnb3J5X3BhZ2U=&subcat_uid=377

Maxtor and Quantum are pretty much one and the same I think. The older IBM DeskStar (usually refered to as DeathStar!) are considered pretty dodgy, but the new IBM/Hitachi drives are supposed to be OK. Generally hear good things about Seagate and Samsung. Surely the Sky+ boxes aren't reliant upon a specific drive manufacturer - the TiVo's can take any IDE drive but they all had Quantums as standard. Mine now has a 120GB Maxtor (!), but all the others I've upgraded have an IBM Deathstar or two. No failures yet ...

Lots of chatter about this on the TiVo forum as reliable hard disks that run 24/7 are quite important to them ! http://www.tivocommunity.com/tivo-vb/forumdisplay.php?s=&forumid=14 Maxtor get pretty bad press. Anything with a 3 year warranty is considered a bonus.

Looks jacked up at the back to me ! :eek: Also, the exhausts seem a little too far away from the bodywork.

According to Manwell .... more than 11psi at tickover and 51-65 psi at 3000rpm http://www.300zx.co.uk/tech/manual/manual/lc/005.gif

They do mine (although it's a '92) and it's a very good deal. Have just been sent some junk mail, (probably because of my web site), may be worth a try :- Refer your members to Carl at Insurance World on 0845 1202 797 for instant quotes. Car Club Membership discounts are Available New schemes announced for Japanese Performance cars. INSURANCE WORLD in Northampton have announced two new schemes available for all Japanese Cars, (including Grey Imports) traveling under 6000 miles per year. One scheme is underwritten by Chaucer insurance and the other by the Norwich Union.