turbocraigy

Remove the switch then plug it in and try again. I seem to remember that if the pod holder hazhard retaining points break or part broken they will not hold the switch in the right place and the switch doesn't latch. If this is the case a new pod hokder is required. http://www.zcentre.co.uk/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.pbv.tpl&product_id=174&category_id=74&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=7 Hope I make sense!

Your 13.8 and 13.3v sound a little low as well, could be a weak alternator. They don't have to fail completely.

You could disconnect the neutral on the battery and then put a multimeter in series with it to measure battery drain. Did this once with my partners MX5 and found the drain (0.5A) was from the stereo. Almost like the amp wasn't shutting down when car off.

Something a miss here. After a 20mile ride home the light will have gone out if it was just something like the ABS having a paddy. When I had my car dyno'd I had no issues with the HICAS light. The ABS light came on whilst dyno'd because front wheels not turning while back ones doing upto 100mph - normal reaction and light went out within moments of normal driving. Check the fluid level yourself from cold. Fluid loss or leaks is the main cause of the light coming on. If OK check the connection at the actual cap top and loom connector. If thats OK then have a look at the main ecu connector under the pass side carpet. If they have done an ecu upgrade then they will have removed this to replace the chip and socket it etc. Maybe when they have refitted it they have overtightened the connector (held in place by 10mm?? bolt). If overtightened it can bend this connector and this can create bad connections! The main ecu will talk to the PAS/HICAS ecu thru this loom. If so slacken the bolt and make sure it looks good, straight and home. If that looks ok then check the PAS ecu as its close to the main ECU - its possible they have disturbed it, but unlikely. After that I would be looking at where the boost controller is plumbed in and where its wired into the cabin. Maybe if done close to the steering wheel they have disturbed the wheel angle sensor or something. My first suggestions are more likely though.

You've done well with that. £1000 - bargain! :thumbup1:

Or the springs have snapped? I have known a few cars that have had a broken spring and it has made them sag at a corner. It can sometimes be very hard to see a broken spring as well.

Although your fitting slotted & grooved discs I assume they are stock sized? You haven't fitted a bigger disc kit have you? Assuming they are stock sized, it is very likely that they will fit, but you'll only know for certain by trying to fit them. The size of the wheel is pretty average TBH, but its the spoke designs that will determine if they catch the brakes. Do you know the offsets of the wheels? Sorry I can't be more helpful, I bet they'll fit, just can't be sure.:(

A bit like the SWB then:oops::tt2::lol: Seriously though, nice effort!:chef:

Hope I'm not coming across as an arse, can some times read like that. I'm just trying to answer your questions and help you!!:) I would still bet that your stock sender is faulting (they usual read OK with cold engine and fail when hot) and you may have accidently buggered your gauge. Hope not though. JeffTT posted this interesting information sometime ago. I will copy and paste it. They you go.... Took one of the sensors apart years ago to determine exactly what it is that fails in them, yes the hole can get blocked but that would worry me that the oil has not been changed very often, the unit fits in the turbo oil feed!! The unit is part Nissan high tech and part school project, oil pressure acts on a small diaphram, there is a small linkage that connected between the diaphram and an acting swing arm. The swing arm via the diaphram moves in relation to oil pressure,the upper part of the swing arm makes an electrical connection via a brass rubbing strip on to a variable resister that looks very similar to the insides of an old scaletrix hand controller. The section of track where the rubbing strip is infrequently sitting such as when the oil pressure is high ( when cold or higher revs) remain in good condition and so the rubbing strip makes a good contact and the gauge shows high pressure. Once the oil warms up and the pressure drop to normal or the revs are much lower the rubbing strip is now in a highly used area of the track and this is the worn part, hence a bad connection and a poor gauge reading. There is nothing to do except replace it, I have no idea of the quality of e-bay items but they do go for around £35 which is probably a better idea than a second hand one, but a new Nissan one alays returns everything to normal. The unit was used on the Nissan Patrol I think and most likely Almera Gt etc. Jeff TT

OK mate fair enough. In answer to one of your questions... When I turn the engine off the needle stays where it is, as soon as I put the ignition back on the needle immediately returns to zero, on start up the needle is back in motion again, all this normal behaviour? ...the answer is no. The needle should drop to zero when switching engine off, the spring that you have removed is probably designed to do that. Also would imagine the gauge will now be even more inaccurate because it was calibrated to work with the needle spring pressure. The needle on the boost and oil pressure gauges should not be able to move too freely (the speedo+rev needles do). The same applies to fuel and temp gauge. They are under a slight tension. The speedo and rev needles are so free you can blow them round the dial!, but not the others. And the question... As 1bar is roughly 15psi and my aftermarket gauge is perfect and goes to even 6 bar at high revs/start up, it shows how inaccurate the stock gauge is or mine in particular? please let me know? ...It is yours. My car gauge reads around 3/4 deflection on cold start up which is around 90psi. This tally's with your 6bar aftermarket gauge reading and shows your stock gauge and/or sender unit is still not working correctly.

More more more!!

Super job! Keep up the good work!

Appreciate your efforts mate, but the stock oil gauge is generally fine, its the sender under the engine that goes faulty and cleaning it out makes no difference, the only solution is to replace it (£85ish for new OEM). The problem can be blockage with dirty oil, but generally after 20yrs or so its the mechanism inside the sender that wears to failure. The problem you described is really really common. I had it too, changed the sender and the gauge now moves and operates correctly and very speedy too.

Yes, the belt could be fitted wrong. I believe this has been done many a time on these cars. Just another thing, is your car a manual or auto or importantly an auto converted to manual because if the latter and the neutral switch is not connected the car ecu will make the timing 25btdc. Or indeed if you have a manual and the neutral switch has gone faulty. My car is auto converted to manual, my neutral switch is not connected up so my car always reads 25btdc when hot and idling even though belt is fitted correctly. Search on this topic for more info.

Have a look towards the rear of the engine near the brake master cylinder. Check all the vacuum lines in that area, I would guess they have maybe pulled one off by mistake when check the lambda sensor connectors. I sure one of the hoses near the balance bar at that side of the engine indirectly drives the boost gauge.

The GTO has had some bad press in the past slating it for being a dull drive etc. All bull, its a great car.:)

From what bit I know the Mk2 GTO (the one without pop ups) has a 6 speed box and if you get the MR version comes with a standard 320bhp instead of 280! The 6 speed box is supposed to be much stronger than the old 5 speed so hunt down a good Mk2 and if you can get the MR. The MR does away with some things like the auto adjusting front and rear spoilers, electronically adjustable suspension and changable exhaust tone! It is the more focused light weight model (still heavy mind), but IMO less to go wrong is better with cars like this. It still has air con, electrics seats etc. The suspension is usually TEIN coil overs as standard on the MR instead of the electrically adjustable soft/hard standard variant. I know this because my pal has a 95 MR and I did some research at the time to help him choose a good one. The MR is still 4 wheel drive, but not 4 wheel steer (no loss IMO). I am always impressed with it when I have a ride, very quick, competent car. If I didn't have the Zed would certainly consider one of these.

So as a person with a auto to manual converted car what is the ideal setup? Can I now fit a manual ECU into the car? Or is it best to leave the original ECU in place? Cheers.

Good man! More people like you needed in the world.

If you really like it and are prepared to put the needed TLC and money into it then why not? The Z31 is a classic car in its own right and very very rare now. I can see the appeal. As long as your fully aware of what sort of project it may be and you have your eyes wide open then go for it. No point in stating how much better the Z32 is. Completely irrevelent. A completely different car with its own appeal IMO. I have a mate that thinks I'm a complete sad git for investing in an 18 year old Z32 and spending thousands on it, another decade makes no difference. In his mind, a much newer car is superior in every way. What is true is that the Z32 is far more supported than the Z31 in terms of spares, upgrades etc, the Z31 may be harder to source parts for, that said it is a simplier machine mechanically and probably easier to DIY on. Rust I'd say will be the biggest problem.

Its quite possible that your brake booster has failed. Thats what mine was when it made that noise. http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=128916&highlight=brake+booster

Think the complete kit ( 2PCVs + 5hoses) are around £90

Also FYI, if you press and hold the off & auto button together for a few seconds this activates a diagnosis mode in which you can scroll thru the various sensor readings etc. What I find useful is that the very first number displayed is the external temp sensor reading. So you still have this sensor and information, its just knowing how to access it. To return the system to normal just press OFF.

Keep us posted on this, especially if you find the cure.

For what its worth I had an auto to manual conversion and left my auto JWT chipped ecu in place, didnt even cross my mind. No problems wih it. On a small note though, every time you do an ECU check it reports a problem with the transmission! Thought about changing the ECU for a chipped manual one, but don't know what effect that would have because of the slight differences between the auto/manual engines.