turbocraigy

Agreed. Looking very good.:)

Hi Chaps, I might be needing a new pair of discs for my K-sport 330mm front kit. Replacements are looking very expensive, just wondering if anyone knows of a common disc replacement from another car? Cheers...:thumbup:

Some do, some don't. I have a series 2 '93' TT import and comes with both fully electric, although not heated.

99 spec mate. I don't really think you need to change the front bumper neither, Funkysi had a 99spec spoiler and kept the 89 spec front and it looked great. In fact I plan on putting a 99spec spoiler on and I will be keeping the 89 spec front.

Have a word with AndyP - (not Andy P) He has fitted the 350z caliper to the rears with modification.

I beat a Veyron all the way to 195mph, then it just crept passed.:( Just didn't have the legs!

Oops! You replied while I was editing my message. I mean't MIGHT. It wasn't long ago that the ball joint for the front wasn't available on its own, now it is. If Andy does end up buying complete wishbones, I suggest he tries CZP (US) - much cheaper.

Send Mike at MJP a message, you might be able to get a ball joint replacement and press it out and new one press in. You now can for the front lower ball joint and they are about £35 each - they might be the same. It would be advisable to remove the arm to remove/refit ball joint and while your at it replace the 2 bushes at the subframe side.

Lurvely!!

Yep, as above. Best case - PCVs Worse case - Turbo replacement/refurb time.

Good luck with the mod, it is very fiddly as a DIY job. I had a crack at it, but failed. Then I bought a UK spec ECU for £15, straight swap, job done. It now cruises upto 105mph. Just a note, if you do swap the ECU as apposed to mod it, be sure to get one with the right loom connection. There are 2 types, a 16pin and a 20pin.

If you like them - get bidding! They will fit fine;)

The seals might be good, but not good enough obviously! Silicon grease or peanut oil can help keep them soft. Make sure the drain holes under the targa roof aren't blocked. slowly pour water over each hole, if its clear you should get a little puddle of water under the car. New targa seals can be bought from Zcentre // MJP etc and not too expensive.

The rears are perfect, roughly filling the arches and be nearly flush. The fronts will fit fine also, but they will sit inwards a bit which is not to everyones taste, but not as far in as the stock allloys which are 7.5inch wide and offset of 45!! (well tucked under). Personally I think they will be spot on, but if you wanted, a 10mm spacer will bring the fronts out nicely.:)

10w40 is just fine. I use Millers 10w40 XSS semi-syth, never had a problem. Think the manual suggests 10w40 anyway.

You could be right with that one. It could be overfuelling a little as the car is hitting the restrictor. I don't know how the restrictor works, it may retard timing as well as other things, but if it smokes then I wouldn't hold the car at that speed.

Don't think he is talking bout the rev limiter, he's refering to the standard Jap spec top speed restrictor of 112mph. No, it should not damage your car driving on the restricted limit, but then blowing a load of smoke out is not normal, you may have a problem.

Yeh, a think Gok the cock is a perv, always having a crafty squeeze and that. Hate that show. Go Girl!:gun_bandana::gun_bandana::gun_bandana::gun_bandana::gun_bandana::gun_bandana::gun_bandana::gun_bandana::gun_bandana:

It could also be the switch on the back of the brake pedal or clutch pedal (if applicable). These switches act as a cruise cancel for obvious reasons, but if slightly out of adjustment or faulty, they stop cruise from being set. You will still get one cruise light on when you press the pod button, but the 2nd cruise light only lights when set is successful. Remember the brake pedal has 2 switches. The other is the actual brake light switch. My cruise cancel switch was broken on the brake pedal and so it wouldn't set. £35 for a new one, easy, but fiddly change, job sorted. The brake pedal light switch also cancels the cruise as a fail safe, but you would no if that one was faulty because your brake lights will be iffy. If one just needs adjusting, sometimes you can tell by pulling the pedal upwards when at cruise speed to see if that sets. The Jap spec cruise limit is 69mph, it will not hold after that. I swapped out the cruise ecu for a UK spec one to raise the cruise limit to 105mph.

Fedex usually send an import duty bill a few days after delivery.

I have used CZP a few times now and the service is top class. For example, I made an order last monday night and Fedex attempted delivery on Friday morning! I picked up from local depot on Saturday. Shipping costs are very reasonable.:)

Assuming your lower arms haven't cracked and the tension rods are ok, the clunking/knocking noises could be worn lower arm ball joints. BTW, the arms are more prone to cracking when poly bushes are used in the tension rods, because of the lack of compliance the poly bushes provide over the silicon filled OEM's.

Going back to the original thread starter - yes it gets my vote. Why should long term dole claimants NOT do 'unpaid' community jobs? If you put a different spin on it they are getting paid - the dole allowance. Genuine people wanting work will not have a problem with this, basically they would just be earning their dole allowance until a suitable job becomes available. Litter picking, painting, communal gardening etc - all useful jobs can be done until they get proper employment. A good idea for the long term unemployed as long as its done fairly and time is allocated for job hunting, interviews etcl

Looks alright to me! Whats wrong with you man! You could fit that to a brand new Bentley!:wack::no:

Would like to buy one of these next year, think they modernise the rear of the zx nicely. Will definately use CarMad when I'm ready. Great price too!:thumbup1: