turbocraigy

Funny you should say that, I only live in S****horpe, but more over, my Fiancee's parents live Hessle, so I'm over you way fairly frequently. Good idea:)

So you sure both are fubbered? You can clearly blow through both servos?

Yep, I agree with that theory.

Yep, I'd normally agree, but thats what I achieved across 3 runs. My slowest was 11.9 I personally think its down to holding the autobox at a stall full throttle and releasing the brake. I remember thinking that the initial off the line acceleration didn't feel that quick and thought no way going to hit 60 under 6, but the autobox seems very strong in 2nd, braking 100 in 3rd the gear changes far quicker than I could do, very impressive through the box! Dont regret the manual conversion, but do feel the 0-100 is a strong point of the auto car. I feel that as a manual, with a shorter 1st and 2nd the 0-60 will be faster, but then using 3rd and 4th taking into account my changes hitting 100 will be slightly slower. My car isn't // wasn't standard. It has/had a Katitmo? S/S exhaust, Apexi induction, chipped and boosting around 16psi - since reduced as didn't realise this was too high for safe running. It had also just had a major cambelt etc etc service at Zedworld and running very well.

When I 1st got my car after a good service and boost increase, I did 0-60 in 5.5secs and 0-100 in 11secs?? It was an auto then haven't tried as a manual, but to be fair the auto is far more consistant off the line. Knowing I was binning the auto, hold the brake engage 'D' floor the throttle, let go of brake!! These times were achieved on 3 attempts. I still reckon 0-100 is potentially faster in the auto! Told my pals of the times - didn't believe me.:(

To eliminate the vacuum tanks you could just run a piece of vacuum hose directly from clutch booster to balance bar. So run hose from LHS of left C directly to clutch booster connection that just behind clutch filler cap (under right C). This keeps the non-return valve in play.

I don't think you can buy new internals has your talking about spliting the servo and replacing the diaphragms. I got luckly with my conversion and had a brake servo thrown in, so I could compare side by side, thats how I found my original one to leak. Finding a good 2nd hand brake servo will be easy, finding a good clutch servo won't has they will generally be sold with a whole manual conversion. To eliminate the clutch servo/booster you really need to pull the hose off the servo, the pipe that goes thru the bulk head behind the clutch filler cap and blow directly into it. Same again go red faced its ok, blow thru it and its leaking.... Brand new servos are a few hundred and thats from the US, here will be alot more.

I'm not sure on that one bud as my car doesn't have them. When my auto-manual conversion was done I decided to leave them off. I believe that there are two, and one if not both might be under the wing?? I thought there was one small cylinder shaped one and one larger odd shaped one and the purpose is to hold more vacuum for clutch assist. I'm no mechanic like, I could be way wrong. All I know is that my car had a mouse like squeak under certain braking conditions and it was my failed booster.

If you disconnect yellow B from the RHS C and can blow into the brake servo continuously then the servo diaphragm has a hole in it and has failed. It will be responsible for the squeak you are hearing. I had this problem. If you disconnect red B at LHS C and can blow continuously down then you either have a leak on the vacuum tanks or the clutch servo which is behind the dash. You should only be able to blow so much into either then go red faced, if not and you can blow through them its a hole. From your description, the 2 non return valves are working ok, and yes the C's are them.

Ok, will do. Have you checked your rear box mount out?

I have not driven an NA 300zx as yet, but there are a few people on here that have driven both and you are not the 1st to say the NA is a nicer drive. Some say the power delivery is much nicer and the engine sounds much nicer as well - I can believe both. If you prefer the NA then keep it, but remember it seems true that a TT generally fetches more money so know what you've got an what its worth. Don't let either go for peanuts!

Too true, its got more new parts than old now!

Did a auto manual conversion some time back, had to split the auto prop and fit the front half of the manual prop, so the 2 halves have never been balanced and the bearing was getting on. I also think the U/Js are getting tired. Get some vibration thru the seat when cold which wasn't there b4 conversion. Brand new gearbox mount fitted too so not that. I'm still on a misson to get the car perfect so another new OEM part is the way forward.

A proper Zedder:wub:

I must admit, I wonder why some folks on here own a Zed:hammer:

I'm fitting an OEM brand spanker complete with new centre bearing already installed so no need to split it as it should already be perfectly balanced and ready to roll!:clap:

You really seem like you've lost interest in the Zed. Shame, just had another look at your car and spec, its lovely and you've obviously spent thousands! Hope you can find it again, spring and summer should help.:)

Cheers mate.:)

I think I know the answer to this one, but thought it best to check, when changing the propshaft does the gearbox let any fluid out, will it need topping up afterwards? I'm thinking it won't, am I right? Cheers....

Beautiful car, but TBH I'm sure there are one or two cars from this forum that are equally nice.

No it wont. The bump stops are part of the spring/shock build which you would be removing.

I think your brake servo unit is failing in that the diaphragm will have a small hole in it. Mine did the same. Its an easy check though... http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=128916

I was purely passing on my experience with my car. I thought my bushes looked shot, so changed them. The new ones looked exactly the same and yes a pig to change with just basic tools. And afterwards I noticed NO difference. I appreciate it is good practice to change any ageing bushes just for peace of mind if nothing else.

Thats right I agree. Mine looked like that when I changed them, no noticable difference afterwards.

55w.:thumbup1: