turbocraigy

Quite possibly because as far as I'm aware the speed sensor from the gearbox talks directly to the speedometer. The speedometer then sends the signal onto the various ECUs including the PAS ecu and the autobox ECU. Sounds odd, but I'm sure thats the case and looks that way on the circuit diagrams. Therefore if your speedo is not working then the speed signal to the auto ecu wont make it. Don't think it will cause any problems as such, but it might not be as smooth or operate as normal until the problem is resolved. I could be way off though - sorry!

Apparently a new loom is one of the best things you can spend your money on with these 15-20 year old cars. Can stop lots of little niggles etc by ensuring spot on connections with all sensors etc. The common thing is to import a LHD loom which fits fine, but has some spare loom that gets tucked under the battery tray and these cost around $375 which is around £230+import duties.

No mate, not just you. Know exactly what you mean. Absolute crying shame and behind the jokes a very serious point to todays show not just about the British car industry, but British industry full stop. Its nearly none existant.:(

Pull and fill it, will be as good as new. Thats very strange how thats happened. Maybe not a car. Maybe a buggy or something. Or a pissed OAP on a disability scooter!

Must add, as a 2nd car/toy/hobby then big yes. I would consider a VXR Monaro.

The problem with the Monaro is the fuel costs.... he says it would be a daily driver. And believe me a 6.0L V8 will be very painful to fuel. I had a 4.6 V8 daily driver and TBH it was a joke. The TT Zed is alot faster and in comparison an ECO warrior! The noise was wicked, performance poor for its capacity, running cost ridiculous! £70 // 180miles. And that was back in 2006.

I have a 93 Series 2.5?! And it has this feature....

Convert your Slicktop buddy - you won't regret it.

The 18x9 ET25 will be a bit close for comfort with regards to rubbing, might not standard, but most definately if you are seriously dropping it. As for camber and alignment, if dropped a lot, then some aftermarket suspension parts are going to be needed to make it right. Sorry, not clued up much here as my car runs standard height, but I know there isn't enough adjustment in the stock setup.

For what its worth, I was in Matalan the other day and saw the suit section. They had a good selection and looked pretty good quality - worth a look.

Far left?? On my Jap spec the port is far right above your right knee if you like. Just above bonnet pull. Is grey and rectangular.

Firstly you need to run an ECU check for error codes : There are 2 methods : http://www.ttzd.com/tech/diagnostictech.html http://www.twinturbo.net/ttnetfaq/FA...agnostics.html Normally safety boost is caused by a problem in the det.sensor area (either genuine det detection / faulty sensor / sub loom 2 sensor) or a problem in the temperature sensor area (faulty sensor / poor connection / damaged loom) Don't dismiss a combination as well. If you have a faulty temp.sensor or bad connection etc, the ecu thinks the engine is cold and limits power until it sees normal running temp. FYI there are 2 sensors just behind the fan in the water pipe in front of the cam cover. The LEFT hand sensor is the one that can generate a code 13 fault and cause safety boost. Check the connection. The right hand sensor purely drives the temp.gauge on the speedo and does nothing else.

Having to spend a grand to sort a 300zx out is nothing really and a good repair on a S2000 isn't going to be cheap. If your car is a tired example, with old shocks, poor brakes, tired bushes etc, then it ain't going to feel good, then there's the general condition of the exterior and interior. Again, if shabby, which many will be, it won't feel good to own. I've spent a fortune on mine, overalling it and it feels and drives great! Its excellent inside and out and so feels good to drive & own. So you could make yours really good, or buy a really good one from say a forum member thats spent a fortune, but it sounds like you just fancy a S2000 now and thats fair enough. But selling your Zed and buying a good S2000 is still going to be a costly affair. Best of luck.:)

Yes my 1993 has this strange,but useful feature....:)

No problem. Does sound like you have a seized compressor.:(

Also I have been told a compression test is unlikely to find a problem if the engine runs so sweetly, which mine does. Still performs perfectly. Trouble is turbos are expensive, pulling the engine to change a PITA if you get it wrong!

Mine has the same problem....seems hard to diagnose without proper investigation. The 1st thing that needs changing is the PCVs and hoses. It could be one of these. A cheap 1st possibility. I've had my PCVs checked, still smokes from one side at tickover. Only hot tickover though and once back on the move it clears. Doesn't smoke under any other conditions. I'm leaning towards a turbo seal as it makes sense. Cold engine, thick oil, no leak from seal. Hot engine on the move, turbos working, generating heat, seals swell some what, no leak, no smoke. Plus increased back pressure when driving. Hot engine ticking over, turbos cool off, seals contract a little, oil hot and more 'searching' less back pressure oil passes through tired seals and burns directly in hot exhaust giving a white blue smoke not dark blue because its not oil burning through the engine, just directly from hot exhaust.

No haynes manual for the Z32. There is for the Z31 so don't be fooled. You can sometimes buy the genuine Nissan manual off Ebay etc, but are rareish and can cost upto £100! The best way to tell is to remove the compressor and then compare with the replacement. When I bought one, I described the pipe connections to the seller to make sure it was right. One seller had the wrong one, one seller had the right one! Ball ache!

Pull the air con fuse from the engine bay, this will stop the clutch on the compressor trying and if seized causing the squeal and stalling. Then you can use the temperature pod at your leisure without that problem.

^^^IIRC there are also 2 types of compressor for different series of cars. Be sure you get the right one for your car. You can tell by the pipe connections.

Not as such but you can buy the pieces req'd from MJP - trader on here. First check to see what you've got or not as it were before jumping in. It maybe something else.

^^^As above^^^ Check all the shims are present, IIRC there is a shim on the back of each pad plus a little springy type piece that sit on ONE corner of each pad to remove the slack as it were that your are describing - maybe that is missing - when I first bought my car, it had no shims or little springy things and made a clacking type noise when braking.

IMO, I don't think its important to buy ultra high quality rear discs. Heared anyone on here warp their rears?? I haven't. We all know most of the braking is done by the fronts anyway. I don't they will wear excessively either. I'm sure some disagree....

Yep company van, but limiting it to 70mph borders on dangerous quite frankly. And its pain for other drivers on the road waiting for me to get out the way.... I'm sure there is no turbo, there is absolutely no kick, surge or anything. Very very slow!

Hi Guys, anyone know how to delimit a Volkswagon caddy van? I think its a 1.9 non-turbo!! diesel, flat as a fart and electronically limited to 70mph, which is annoying and makes overtaking very hard. Its a 2010 model if it makes any difference....