turbocraigy

Don't be put out chap, the weekends, especially day times are normally very quiet here. This isn't because we're ignoring you, but most people are busy doing weekend stuff and driving around in their Zeds!! :) Generally most posting take place during the week on an evening.

Take a look at this thread. http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=139013 Push the boat out and buy this beauty.

£3k will buy you a good one, but it won't be perfect. Unless your lucky £1500 will buy a rough car that needs TLC. I would expect around 22mpg on sensible daily driving, but way less than 18mpg when driving hard for lengthy periods. I have just done a real steady tank full to see how economical my TT can be and it returned only 26mpg - crap. But thats not what we buy a 3litre TT for is it?! I think they are generally reliable cars, but need looking after. Good idea to have a full health check done when you get one by someone who knows the 300zx inside out.

I often wonder how many things are done under the bonnet of the 300zx. I just stare at it and think nightmare! Very little under the bonnet that can be classed as simple.

I like where it says no other 300zx will be found in this original condition. Thats a bold statement, I pointed out a better one on another thread...the UK pearl yellow TT with 43K on the clock. Still looks a nice car, but unsure its a TT, normally this would be mentioned as a saleing point.

Main advantage is strength and safety. At 20mm-25mm you NEED hubcentric spacers for these reasons. Personally, I wouldn't use standard spacers of more than 5mm thick. Also I would use the bolt on sort that you then bolt the wheel to the spacer, rather than the spacer sort that reqs you to change your existing studs for extra long ones....if that makes sense?

Best photo I have with stock alloys.... 7.5j wide fronts with 15mm spacer. 8.5j UK spec rears with no spacer.

I had stock alloys wheels (UK spec with wider rears) I fitted 15mm spacers to the front. TBH the fronts (7.5inch) were still tucked under the arches, so I would try 20mm or even 25mm if was doing again. The rears were wider (8.5inch) and so with a 15mm spacer stuck out the arch so I removed the spacers from the rears. If doing again I would try a 5 or 10mm spacer for the rears. If your alloys are Jap spec i.e. same front and rear then try a 20mm or 25mm on the backs.

That is so so cool!! Really would like a thumping v8 under the hood. And as a bonus it looks far friendlier to work on in the future. There's more room under there now!

I've said it once, I'll say it again, its people and cars like this that completely devalue the 300zx. And why they sell on Ebay for £800!:headvswal

Looks mint! Real nice car for someone. http://atsearch.autotrader.co.uk/www/cars_popup.jsp?did=12896&pageid=2&originalid=&gid=nogroup&tid=40&start=2&distance=0&adcategory=cars&channel=DEALERPAGE&id=201020359538753

No problem.:)

I will try to answer your question. The only way to correct the centre line would be to have the alloy hub mount face skimmed to remove the 10mm extension. In reality, this is not going to be possible because you will compromise on strength of the wheels. You can't do any thing on the car to correct it for the same reason - safety. A 10mm extended centre line is NOT significant. Think about the boys running wide arch kits and 60mm spacers!! If you have the geometry sorted the tyre wear won't be a problem (driving style effects this massively). The wider stance will improve cornering alittle, but yes wider tyres will make tramlining more noticable. There will be more stress on bearings, but how long before this is a problem depends on the current mileage//condition etc. In short, IMO, you won't have any problems with the wheels/tyres you are suggesting. The car will look better for the wheels being pushed out and having wider tyres. Most folk on here have 17,18 & 19inch wheels with far more aggressive offsets, much wider tyres than your suggesting and have no problems. My wheels are 18inch//8.5J// offset ET23 and I have no issues as yet with bearings etc and looks much better than stock. My suspension is standard height though. Just go for it, stop worrying.

I'm not entirely sure what the problem is. So changing the wheels alters the stance of the car pushing the wheels further out. Most of us have after market wheels on and this is generally the result. My wheels are pushed out close to flush with the arches and all I did was have a 4 wheel laser alignment done to stop the tyres wearing wrong. I suppose if the car has been lowered you might need to fit adjustable components to get the alignment right, but my car is at a standard height and it adjusted OK.

Phil Blackmoor Service Station 363 Manchester Rd , Astley, Manchester, Lancashire M29 7DX Tel: 01942 883348

Statisically the manual is faster 0-60 and IMO a good driver will be able to make the manual faster off the line because of the shorter ratios it has. BUT, in reality the auto can get off the line far more reliably and far far more consistantly. Human error is the problem. Setting off from the lights 10 times, an average driver might be able to get the manual car to 60 in under 6 seconds maybe 3 to 4 of those 10 tens and will cock up the other 7 times! Where as in the auto, the car does it for you. stomp n go and will probably get to 60 in about 6-6.5 seconds every time you try - dry road. For the record, I had an auto, converted it to manual and it is much better for it.

I'm with you Dazkent, if they came from the factory with water cooling then they should stay water cooled. When I took my car for some service work to Phil's (Ex. C&S Woods employee.300zx specialist) he spotted that my turbo cooling water had been bypassed. He wasn't impressed by this and corrected it without prompt.

Have a look at this thread first....you might not need to replace it. http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthr...nternal+aerial I have done this with mine and it works perfectly.

For my TT manual 3k revs equals roughly 80mph.

Make sure you use the right stuff for topping up.

Good luck with the hunting mate, but TBH don't expect much for the budget you've got. These cars are cheap enough to buy now because there are alot of ropey rotten shitters to buy, but a decent one will still command reasonable money. Really do your homework other wise I fear your £1000-1500 could be nothing but trouble. And be aware they are not cheap to keep. Sorry to sound so grim about it, but people really need to know that these are far from normal cars, parts and labour well above Ford Focus and Vauxhall Astra rates.

The dip stick should have bought an Impreza instead.

According to the wheel offset calculator I've used the new wheels are going to stick out an extra 15mm!! http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp Are you sure the new rears are ET26?? Cos unfortunately looking at your existing picture they are not going to fit. The arch is going to be sat on the tyre when you take your car off the jack. Even if you had stock suspension the tyres would stick out too much and may fail an MOT. Sorry mate. Reconfirm the offsets of the rear wheels.

Grey logo for me.

Yep, criminal to see them like this.