turbocraigy

Did this really sell for just 2.5K???

:lol::lol::lol: Seems true for most, but not all!

They should fit perfectly them mate:thumbup:

The common reason for CC failure is normally just a switch.... At the back of the brake pedal there are 2 switches, one is the cruise cancel switch, the other is the brake light switch. The brake light switch also cancels cruise when pressed (safety backup), but if faulty then obviously your brake lights wouldn't work.... The cancel switch IIRC is a normally closed which opens when pedal pressed, this interupts the cruise circuit. Sometimes this switch just needs adjusting, you can tell this is the case if you lift the brake pedal up whilst trying to activate cruise and it works. If you have a manual car there will be another cancel switch on the clutch pedal...same applies. Of course the switch can just be broken (mine was) so the cruise never operated because the computer thinks one of the pedals is pressed. I bridged it out to prove it and it worked. A new switch cost about £30. Then of course you need the original steering wheel, press set at desired speed after the pod button activates the green cruise light.Once working you'll get a 2nd green light next to the 1st one think that says cruise. Note jap spec cruise is limited from 30mph to about 68mph & won't activate outside that anyway. And as a 2nd note, if you sort this and want a higher cruising speed you can swap a UK spec CC ECU in. This alters cruise limits from 30 to 105mph - much better. I have done this! If you need any more help feel free to PM me.

^^^^sorry mate. Was editing my mistake when you posted this!:oops:

Doh doh doh doh doh doh doh and doh. You're both absolutely right. I have got 2. Confused them with the rear side deflectors which I have just removed for the LED fitment. Sorry Folks!!!:stupid:

Really?? Are you sure? My series 2 very definately only has 1 screw then it simply pivots out. Happy days.:) Just had a look at your photos and yes you have two screws, one top, one bottom of the back edge. Strange. Mine just has one in the middle of back edge and the bumper corresponds to this....weird changes.

Top of my head guestimate based on my TT recently about 27mpg. And I have checked this over the last few tank fulls. Strangely my car seems more economical at 80mph than at 60-70!?!? And BTW, getting aroung 340miles at which point fuel light comes on. Filling up to brim only pushes around 55litres in which means these cars have a reasonable reserve.

I think you got this very wrong. The screw you keep turning is to adjust the FOG light level. The sidelight bulb is fixed. BUT, to change the bulb/s you need to actually remove the whole unit which requires you to firstly remove the indicator unit (1 screw). This then gives you access to the back of the fog/sidelight unit. there are 3 10mm nuts holding the unit in. Remove them and pull the unit from the bumper. Unplug, then split the unit in half (4 screws) to access bulbs. Once back together again you will need to correct foglight aim level as you have cocked this up!!

Sorry mate, not in keeping with car for me. Each to their own though mate.

You are correct. An adaptor kit will be req'd OR you need to change to the newer fuel rail. And also change the injector connectors in either case. For example.... http://www.conceptzperformance.com/Cart/description.php?II=3632&Car_Type=300&UID=2010062000500281.157.33.87 When I upgrade my injectors, I shall just go for the Nismo 555's. Straight fit and same 90-94TT injector connectors. Costs more, but easier + proven.

Spent the money in all the wrong places. Shed. Feel sorry for it!

In theory then you should now pass an MOT. When they tested mine, last week, they didn't take it any where near red line. Maybe reached around 3k revs. Should be fine mate.

Can anyone explain to me why a boost controller works so much better than the jets?? I appreciate that they will control spiking etc better, but why do they/would they give better performance of the lights etc and enable the tubs to boost quicker? Cheers.

Is this like a thin shimmy type plate that goes all the way round between the gearbox and the engine? I don't remember seeing a 2nd metal plate. Please clarify for me, I'm confused.

They aren't many jobs on the Zed that are as easy to do as this one. Doddle!:)

At a guess I'd say yes they will fit. Not aware of any significant changes through out the cars life. As for price..... http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=128668&highlight=drop+links This price was roughly £18 each+VAT+delivery in 2009, so your going to be looking at £50 to your door for a OEM pair. But, quality?? Who knows? For what its worth I changed mine for an Ebay cheap pair. The quality SEEMS ok, they are a perfect match in fit and I've had them for 2 years now without issue. Also you'll note from the link, Mike didn't ask for the car year or variant of 300zx. Just a straight price. Just had a look at the CPZ website, there is no year or variant options when ordering drop links from them. http://www.conceptzperformance.com/Cart/description.php?II=1882&Car_Type=NIS300&UID=2010061714120481.157.33.87

Whats the spec of your tyres?? Width/Profile.

Surely you have got a tyre profile that compensates for the size of your wheel and as such, the rolling radius of your new wheels should be very, very close to stock with 16 inch wheels and tractor tyres?? If not your speedo will be miles out! When I changed to 18inch wheels, I picked a tyre size that kept the overall dimemsion the same to within about 1-2%. This way my speedo stayed accurate. Other than the tyre size, the 20inch wheel will weigh more that stock which means more torque is req'd to turn the wheels, so performance will be effected slightly although I doubt you'd noticed.

My mate just got a renewal for his 3000GTO. No accidents or claims, no changes to car or situation. Was £600, now £1100....insurance is just a joke. :(

Contact MJP (trader here) for a OEM sender unit.

99% of the time, the low pressure reading is due to a failing sender unit. NOT a faulty gauge. Very common at this age, the sender can read high pressure because the is the less used portion of the internals (when cold) When hot, the most used portion of the internals is used and the sender is worn there, the gauge reads low even 0 sometimes. They cost about £85 for a new OEM sender which is fitted under the engine. I changed mine last year and it now reads perfectly and responsively.

Yes a 0 ohm reading indicates a short circuit as opposed to an open circuit and does indicate a cream crackered injector! So the other 5 definately read around 12?? If so and you are confident its a definate 0 ohm reading you have found your problem. Its perfectly plausable that the injector coil as failed when you started it after work. As for a guide to changing an injector using the dremel method...... http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=117654&highlight=dreme

Which is why bodykits are a bad idea to a degree. Still think the majority of UK cars are rusty trouble, the daily driver UK cars that are 17+years old have being subjected to a life time of naff weather. This is not to offend any UK 300 owners though, I know there are still some cherished minters around. And some Jap spec cars have been in the UK for nearly 10 years, those that have and been daily driven may be heading the same way. And then you have Fanny's - like me who have a fresh import and hide it away in anything other than fine weather! Just had my 3rd mot since owning it, done only 4k since the last, tester said was like new underneath. Shame about the smokey tubs though!