turbocraigy

All I can offer is to suggest you double recheck everything again before diving in pulling the plenum. Especially your injector testing as I find it odd that 2 would fail together and also read 0 (zero) ohms. Normal failure is open circuit? I am not expert, but would hate for you do go through all the trouble to find it be something else. Sounds like you on to something though.

I would say the biggest part of the problem was the fluid, think I had boiled it at some time.

Thanks for all your help Guys. I replaced all the fluid, remove all the pads and gave them a quick sand, exercised all the pistons and took for retest...... PASS!! :clap: Tester said brakes were a lot better, couldn't give a %age reading as when they pass, its just a pass result on screen. Said the rest of the car (apart from the smokey tubs!) was like new!:taz:

http://uk.news.yahoo.com/21/20100611/tuk-boy-microwaves-brother-s-hamster-6323e80.html Not exactly prison, young offender institute - 4 months!! Some might think its only a hamster, me on the other hand, would rip this boys head clean off if I caught him doing this!! Little ******* ****er!!:gun_bandana:

No, the brakes SEEM quite OK, as far as the stock brakes can seem anyway!

Hi Chaps, just failed the MOT because of the service brake efficiency. The tester said brake balance was ok, but overall 48% efficiency is a fail (50% req'd!) So what does this mean? He seemed to think it might have been a back caliper not working hard enough. What can I do to sort this? The calipers have recently being refurbished, with new dics and pads. The fluid was also changed, but I have had the brakes very hot since and got a very soft pedal at the time. Once cooled the brakes seemed ok again. Could it just be the fluid? Cheers Chaps.... BTW it breezed through the rest, which is always nice!:)

Contact MJP for a price on all 4 new OEM shocks. Don't mess around with 2nd ones, it could end up costing you more. Unless of course you know of someone selling some that are in real good order and not very old.

Yes mate, it does sound much better at cold idle because of the higher revs. Where would you get a H pipe from? I take it that would replace the centre sections currently on? Its funny how some people have no problem though. This idle noise is poor and I'm sure 99% of people would agree.

It looks very nice at the rear, the tails are very stock looking, but nicely larger than stock, more in keeping with the performance of the car. The noise at low revs and when booting it is very nice, but the idle noise is not good. Wondering if fitting decats or divorced turbo elbows would correct this.

"Farty!" - Yes I suppose you could describe like that. Pants is my description! TBH, for anyone looking for a new exhaust, I can NOT recommend a Mongoose system. The quality is below standard, poor fit and the noise at idle is not good. Some on here will remember, I originally had the Mongoose Oval tips, but had to send them back because the ovals were different! Then the quads came and the lengths of the tips were longer on one backbox to the other! Beware! My quess is that there was a time when the Mongoose for the 300zx was good, but ATM, quality seems very suspect.

Hi Guys, recently I have fitted a Mongoose quad tip cat back system and although it makes a nice deep rumble when pottering about, the noise it makes at idle is pants quite frankly!!!!:mad2: It is a real deep burble, but not nice at all. Sounds very turbulant & is a pure baffle type noise. The engine is ticking over correctly at the right revs, the car still has the original cats etc. If I raise the revs very slightly with the throttle, the noise is much nicer and you can hear the engine again as apposed to baffling. As anyone else experienced this with this system and is there any way to cure it?? This is not a little moan, the idle note really is crap ATM even mates have commented. Cheers....

I stick with me Mongoose thanks!

It said 7k a couple of hours ago, now 9k!! Wonder what the crack is? That said, its about time these cars start to appreciate.:)

I have a 8.5inch front with offset of ET23 and my wheels are not quite flush, your 9inch ET35 would sit about 6mm in compared to mine. A 10mm spacer would then push your wheel 4mm further out then mine. Should be bang flush. your rears won't require a spacer, but should you use a 10mm on the front the front track will be wider than the rear (just) so might be better to use a 5mm on the front to keep the rear track wider, but still have a near flush front.

Fit for the bin?? Thats a bit harsh mate! LOL.

Yes, stupid advert, not a pray of getting £7k. Maybe he doesn't want to sell it, but his Mrs wants him to get rid, so he's made a really bad advert and massively over priced it!!:clap:

Yes the rears with an offset of 32 will be right on the edge, flush with the arches or maybe even a little proud. Funkysi runs 9.5 ET 35 on the rears, ET32 means sticks OUT an extra 3mm I think he has a 20 or 25mm spacer on the front to correct his offset to around ET20 with the 8.5 fronts he has. JoelyP is right, you won't need spacers for the rear and a 10mm spacer for the fronts will make the effective offset ET20 which should be bang on.

Absolutely what I would do.... Don't go thru the insurance unless you really need to.

Don't know TBH. Sorry. Would have thought that if a PCV got stuck open then yes it would. Try a few searches on here to get more answers. Still for the price, worth a try.

If your sure the 330mm kit fits then 1st try to get a swap from the buyer. If you can't then you have 2 choices. 1) Sell the 356mm kit make a small (ish) loss then buy a new 330mm kit. 2) Keep the 356mm kit and change your wheels. Will cost more than 1) I really like your current wheels and would keep them, but if you feel like a change then now is a good time. If I was you, I'd keep the wheels and sort the brakes. Is keeping the Brembos not an option?

God these cars look good. Even crashed ones! Really like the colour. Doesn't look badly damaged. Lets hope not:)

As above^^^need to know widths of rims mate.

However looking at the design of your alloys, the 330mm kit should fit, can see why the extra distance the caliper is pushed out causes the problem with the 356mm kit.

Will you not consider selling your new brakes and fit the Brembos back on?? New rims will cost you alot more and even the 330mm brake kit may still need the 25mm spacer meaning the same problem! I thought the caliper that came will those K-sport kits was the same used in both 330mm form and 356mm form, the only difference being the adaptor bracket. If this is the case, maybe you can borrow someones or see if the supplier can send out the 330 brackets to try on your car 1st.

According to data I have read, your compression results are very good! http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/technical/view/868155/Compression-Test-How-To.html The blue smoke could be due to bad PCV's so considering the price ( Bear in mind once changed, there will still be some residue that needs burning off - may take 300miles or so. However, should it continue to smoke this could indicate worn turbo seals, but since its so costly to change these, try the PCVs first. Just a pointer, make sure you use UK spec PCVs+hoses and not US spec PCVs+hoses cos the restrictors are a different size on the US spec cars and this can actually cause smoke problems on Jap/UK spec cars!! And if you don't//can't change all 5 hoses then at least change the ones that connect directly to the PCVs....try MJP's to get them. :)