AndrewG

If you collect the various values required (see calculator notes) you can come up the F/R bias of your new setup. http://www.tceperformanceproducts.com/bias-calculator/ By way of reference, for stock calipers, discs and pads below the split point of the proportioning valve (498psi) the brake bias ratio F/R is 2.1/1 and above the split point the ratio F/R is 3.0/1. The proportioning valve is built into the master cylinder and reduces the hydraulic pressure exerted on the rear caliper pistons relative to the fronts when you apply pressure to the system above the split point. If you like, between light/medium braking and heavy braking.

Simon I can't make this as it clashes with an event here at the Kenley aerodrome. Would have been great to meet up again with him.

All I can offer you is the 'RS' section from the '96 FSM which includes the handling and disposal of airbags: rs.pdf

The pressure applied depends on the size and therefore area of the pistons. For example, a two pot caliper with the same total piston area as a four pot caliper will excert the same pressure on the pad. What size are your pistons?

The important part of the caliper/pad fitment in relation to the disc is to position the top edge of the pad level with the nominal disc outside diameter. How does it look on yours?

An old thread I know, but safety first. The '96 FSM covers the Airbag system and safety precautions when handling the airbag assembly - in particular not storing and handling the airbag in the "face down" position. In the event of accidental deployment it would turn the steering wheel into a projectile, sending it up towards the person handling it. Additionally, the two pins in the airbag connector can be shorted together to remove the chance of an electrical (static) discharge setting off the airbag.

18th September would also work for me. Time for a new thread?

http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/technical/view/926468/You-need-the-NA-sensors-gear-to-swap-onto-the-TTs-sensor.html

It will be on your VIN plate located near to the bonnet latch.

Good-bye-ee! good-bye-ee! Wipe the tear, baby dear, from your eye-ee. Tho' it's hard to part I know, I'll be tickled to death to go. Don't cry-ee! don't sigh-ee! There's a silver lining in the sky-ee. Bonsoir old thing, cheerio! chin chin! Nah-poo! Toodle-oo! Good-bye-ee!

So is propane OK?

Indeed it is Dave. Just wanted to give you some reading on the subject!

http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/general/view/2609521/LEAVE-IT-ALONE-Its-dielectric-packing-for-insulation.html

No need to keep cutting back, just scrape with a stanley knife or use an abrasive stick to remove the tarnish.

Best wishes on your Birthday Graham!

Love it! In future make sure you clean the wires you are going to solder as any surface corrosion will make it hard for the solder to bite. The solder joins can look fine but are in fact dry and can fail. As you have crimped the joins you should be OK.

But would you do that to your car?

What a lovely looking resort!

Always use the tunnel for the Zed for that reason. Mind you you need to be careful of the "kerbs" in the shuttle carriages and nice wheel rims, there is not a lot of room for error.

I don't have any specific Nissan info on how to deal with nippleless ABS units. The '95 FSM has a misprint as it only refers to ABS units with bleed nipples. Anecdotal info on TT.net suggests loostening the line connections on the ABS just enough for fluid to come out and then bleed them as if they were a nipple. If you go that route I suggest that you keep the brake pedal down whilst loosening and then retightening the union to prevent air being drawn back in. That makes it a two person job. Try bleeding the calipers first and see how you get on.

That and a garage full of potions and lotions to keep it in pristine condition!

For Pre '94 models with bleed nipples on the ABS unit follow the bleed order and procedure as per FSM: http://www.300zx.co.uk/tech/manual/manual/br/005.gif If you have front calipers with two bleed nipples you will need to bleed both sides of each caliper, outer nipple first then inner nipple.

UK Spec same as JDM - unpainted.

Come on it's a tidy car. May not be finished to your taste (or mine) but that dosn't make it a dog. Battery clamp needs a bit more work. Worth £8K, maybe not, but prices are on the up for good ones.

Go on Andy, you know it makes sense...