AndrewG

What I was looking for was evidence that the inside surface of the spoiler had been badly finished after the manufacturing moulds had been removed and whether any excess material could be removed by hand to make the spoiler fit.

Where is it fouling on the inside - can you take a photo of the back of the spoiler where it mounts onto the tailgate?

Those three hardlines (arrowed) are part of the carbon canister circuit. You can either junk them along with the CC or relocate using a smaller CC. Remove the hardlines up to the joints with the rubber pipes above. You can sort reconnection/termination later. http://s95014253.onlinehome.us/63104/6901.html

Before you pull the mirrors apart have you tried applying *both* +12v and ground to the appropriate coloured wires? These are the wiring colours and functions of the wires in the jdm mirrors themselves and are not shown in the FSM. Mirror angle motor = Yellow, Violet, Blue Heated mirror = Black, Black Folding Motor = Orange, Pink Source: http://twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/technical/view/1066651/JDM-Power-Folding-Mirror-Conversion-Long.html (scroll down to Color Code and Harness Install)

I'd love to lay my hands on just a pair of Altia sills so well done in finding all of them!

22680-30P00 for both.

So when did this happen?

Nick there are plenty of people running around with stock/mapped ECU's running 300hp and above without problems or reliability issues. It all depends on the preparation and setup. For folks like you who are pushing the mechanical, electronics, cooling and fueling limits then yes it can make sense. How much has your new engine management system cost you to install and setup?

For the rear lights I use this stuff and it works fine, compared to OEM sealant easier to the fix lights in place and when removing them. Doesn't damage the plastic of the lights and puts much less strain on the fixing studs as the units are mounted in place. Available from places such as Toolstation it is a non setting rubberised sealant.

Don't waste your money on these. Very poor quality and made out of goodness knows what - manhole covers, garden gates etc.

If you take a look at the FSM pages I've attached here you will see for the mirror motors (bf-61) and mirror heaters (el-69) that no chassis grounding in the doors is shown to complete the circuits. The +ve and ground is swapped for the motors up/down and left/right operation through the loom connectors D4 and D104. The heater circuits likewise powered +12v and ground through the same connectors. bf-61.pdf el-69.pdf

As Eric says it is quite normal for the oil to be that colour, don't worry about it.

The oil cooler system works at high rpms (and therefore high enough oil pressure) to drive some of the hot circulating oil to the cooler. For the most part under "normal" driving conditions the oil cooler isn't fully used. The smaller cooler in front of the oil cooler is your power steering cooler and was only fitted to Euro/UK spec cars.

B to B memory lane! August is good for me. Thanks for organising this Howard - setting 'B' eh?

Something to consider - the Bose front enclosures are tuned specifically for the original Bose driver and the base reflex port. Larger speakers mounted in them have generally not worked out so well on low frequency extension but tend to perform better on midrange than the OEM "infinite baffle" brackets. I have a pair of Bose front enclosures if you want to have a go.

Well done for taking the project on Baz! What condition are the structural elements in under all that crud?

Looking good Howard. Did you use a dial gauge to measure the run out and adjust accordingly?

Now you just being pedantic! Given that the car looks like it has been made out of some ill fitting aircraft cargo door, surely any old rivet will do?

Should have used aircraft spec countersunk rivets for improved airflow over the body and better finish.

Rob, these are the pages from the FSM which cover the alignment measurements for the engine compartment including those for the lower radiator support. These will help when you are setting up for welding the replacement part in. bf-62.pdf

Euro spec in Ukraine:

and makes it more difficult "Call for further details" but omits the number.

Swiss Euro spec - good find Gary!

A proper test! Good to know that.