AndrewG

So what was the problem?

I case you don't have them, here are the '96 FSM pages to help trace the problem. They are easier to read than earlier versions. EL-131-136.pdf

UK cars were protected by the factory to the same degree as JDM for corrosion resistance.

Welcome to the Club Joe. Lovely looking car and in my favourite colour! You can change out the dash from a breaker to get rid of that hole. I know I would.

Quite, a bit more of this wouldn't go amiss!

Definitely cambelt and tensioner change as part of full service. Also flush and replace engine coolant.

Better pics here (I prefer the original "vanilla" version though): http://blog.livedoor.jp/lucifer2012-005/archives/43066940.html

Depends on how you frame "intermittent" - the OP does state that "Every now again it runs on 5" and "The dropped cylinder is moving". Not discounting your suggestions, rather giving other things to check and eliminate as causing the problem.

Have you checked your PTU connections for damage/corrosion? Same for injector connectors. Are you running an early style PTU which can fail giving similar conditions to the one you describe?

Best wishes on your Birthday Tom!

Debut pictures from the '91 Toyko Motor show.

I found I needed new clips when I replaced mine: 65832-F5000 or 65846-30F00 (Qty 19).

No - I really do need to pull my finger out and get it done!

What are we to do?

Yes, it bolts to the two tabs on the top of the cooler.

Euro/UK engine oil cooler support brace:

I agree, it would be nice if a link could be put in our "Details" column.

Hallo Chris and welcome to the Club. JDM or Euro spec? Post some pictures when you have a moment.

Thanks for the factual information Pete, hopefully our friend from Lithuania has not acted on duff info.

Did you adjust the clutch pedal free play to make sure the clutch was fully disengaged when foot off the pedal? More info: http://specialtyz.com/blog/?page_id=178

No problem Andy, they are so tucked away and largely out of sight that I haven't considered changing them out. This is the photo I have showing the "pan head screw" types I think you are referring to?

Yes, just needs cutting out with a sharp knife. The vent body then pushes through the slot. I did a writeup here: http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?182010-Driver-s-side-under-dash-vent The screws I have in the photo are the ones that came with the car. It is difficult to see from the parts fiches what type of heads the fixings have and I can't seem to find a photo (part no: 08363-61625). I have a photo which does show the "radio console screws" being used instead.

How about this upgrade to keep your bits cool Andy?

Out of curiosity was there oil in the diff cooler lines you cut? What condition is the diff oil cooler and motor?

Harry's advanced pro tools - find someone with a trade card. Rather than having large tool kits (most of which never get used), I've stuck with buying small sets of sockets and spanners and then tools "as needed". Other than specialised tools for very specific jobs, it is surprising the small range of tools you need to do jobs on our cars.