AndrewG

I find that even when it is dry any salt that remains on the road is crushed into a fine powder by traffic and ends up as a thin film on the car. It is the main reason I always wait for the roads to dry after it has rained properly beforehand and washed away the salt.

Just the OEM+ bits!

But not always into the ether...

Give your light's optics a good clean. This is the method I used when I installed an HID kit: http://www.zcar-owners.net/cgi-bin/diy_bbs/cbbs.cgi?mode=al2&namber=25&rev=&no=0 It makes an amazing difference and avoids having to split the headlights. You can also clean the rear of the projector lens using the same technique. You will need to remove the headlight units from the car.

The 300 degree camber correction kit shims are 0.3" (7.62mm) thick to correct a 0.8" drop (normally used with Eibach springs). This assumes that the stock camber setup is within factory spec. to start with (-1°35' to -0°05'). The frank de-ruiter camber correction kit (which I use) can be shimmed to correct a wider range camber adjustments. For the Eibach springs I installed I used 4+2+1mm shims which was right for my car. The kit is no longer available to buy. This is the scan of the FDR install instructions which included a guide table for the various shim combos vs positive correction.

Euro spec in France:

Owned for nearly 20 years there has only been one Nissan Z for me...

Here is another view.

Fortunately they are not all the same Nick! I can think of Brett Dempsey (BDE), Jim Selin (Selin Design), Mike Smith (MSP), Jim Wolf (JWT) among others who have managed to design and produce great products and taken care of their customers (both direct and resellers).

The two boot lid lip trim pieces should cover that gap?

He does design and make great products for the Z32 and as such is a rapidly diminishing breed. Unfortunately, the only way I would buy any AshSpec product is through a reputable dealer who actually stocks the product (for example SpecialityZ). More so as we are on the other side of the Atlantic.

235 width on 8J and 265 width on 9J are correct fitments. They don't look stretched to me.

You are ahead of me Nick! Have you ordered a planar kit as I gather that SZ are out of stock?

Having removed the rubber T piece are you still using the stock intake pipes to the turbo compressors?

Just remind me to keep clear of any avionics you might have worked on!

Surface mounted components can be tricky to remove (as you have found out). However, one of these (or similar) makes the job much easier. https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/desoldering-guns-pumps/4794197/

Poor clock!

As our Australian friends would say:

The conical mark on the display itself is normal for this type of device - a vacuum fluorescent display. We were being lazy calling it an LCD. The condition of the IC on the back however is not normal, and suggests that it has been fried (heat damage). Possibly by connecting the power supply up incorrectly.

Personally I would have an inline fuse (say 1amp) between the battery +12v and the crocodile test lead going to the clock.

Was the clock working when fitted in the car before?

Here is the schematic Tom. The clock relies on two +12v supplies (one for running with LED display on/key in and the other for no key in). Ground wire and two wires to control dim display when lights are on. You can work out the colours from the clock's chassis plug and the diagram. el-68.pdf I've ammended the above description Tom as there are *two* connections to the illumination control system. Clock's chassis plug colours: R/Y (red/yellow stripe) is to illumination control system LG (light green) is swiched +12v (ignition key accs) B (black) is ground R/L (red/blue stripe) is to illumination control system Y is constant +12v

"Paul will book you for the whole weekend, until we sort out which 2 nights we want" https://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?188491-Club-Weekends-2018&p=1965213&viewfull=1#post1965213