AndrewG

Deposit paid.

It is, but for gearboxes! Redline MT-90 Gearbox Oil -> https://www.redlineoil.com/mt-90-75w90-gl-4-gear-oil Redline 75W90 Differential Oil -> https://www.redlineoil.com/75w90-gl-5-gear-oil

Weight distribution for 2+0 (SWB) is 55:45 F/R and for 2+2 (LWB) is 53:47 F/R.

According to the FSM the correct size is T50: rs-5.pdf

Yes, you are quite right.

^^^ and in their sale: http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/tools/socket-sets/halfords-advanced-7-piece-torx-bit-socket-rail-1-2

As Andy says above you should test for a parasitic drain if a new fully charged battery is discharging in two weeks. https://www.wikihow.com/Find-a-Parasitic-Battery-Drain Make sure the obvious things like interior lights (cabin and boot) are off when the doors and boot are closed. Glove box light (if you have one). Alarm system if fitted is correctly working (no warning light flashing when arming). Check that the interior light (above your head) actually works as the room lamp relay will still draw power even if the bulb is blown.

Always worth checking the most obvious things first! Good to know that is all it was.

Not cut but they are little tender thanks! Had a large whisky and now feeling much better.

Replacement OEM CMC fitted today (finally), what a ba%$#rd fiddly job!

Have you checked that the wheel nuts are tight?

Much better!

Best wishes on your Birthday Jason!

Looking foward to your 2018 journal Nick! It's a great read so far - thanks for taking the time to write it all up.

A very merry Christmas to you all!

The owner may have taken care of the car and bought a dash cover to protect the dash from the sun and heat. They are not that uncommon in the hotter parts of the US. From the photo the rest of the car interior looks in good condition so you may be lucky. In any case it is not that difficult to replace with another dash from a Euro car that is being broken and is unlikely to have experienced the same degree of sun.

The '89 OEM spoilers are made up of a sheet metal frame over which a dense foam is formed to create the shape. A thin plastic skin is then applied to the exterior (top and sides) surface to create a smooth pliable surface to paint. Typically water gets into the foam through poorly sealed edges and then into openings in the metal frame which are used by the plastic clips to fix the spoiler to the tailgate. The frame rusts and in doing so allow more water to ingress. The bubbles you see are droplets of water that are trapped between the foam and the outer skin. If you stick a pin in them water will come out rather like a blister on human skin. The foam behind the bubbles degrades and becomes powdery. The proper recourse is to replace the spoiler. The photo below show the underside of a spoiler and you can see the openings were the problem starts.

Is this an OEM spoiler or an aftermarket (fibreglass) one?

In what way was the sound quality poor? For example poor imaging, frequency range, dynamics, distortion etc.

In case you don't already have this information regarding Airbag handling safety: The '96 FSM covers the Airbag system and safety precautions when handling the airbag assembly - in particular not storing and handling the airbag in the "face down" position. In the event of accidental deployment it would turn the steering wheel into a projectile, sending it up towards the person handling it. Additionally, the two pins in the airbag connector can be shorted together to remove the chance of an electrical (static) discharge setting off the airbag. Here is the 'RS' section from the '96 FSM which includes the handling and disposal of airbags: rs.pdf

You going to de-pin that connector Gary?

According to Z1 link I posted earlier: "Nissan produced the fan clutches with a slight difference for the naturally aspirated and twin turbo models. Visually they are the same other than a yellow dot on the front face of the TT clutch and an an orange/red dot on the face of the NA clutch. As a replacements we use the Twin Turbo fan clutch on both NA and TT models, however you can purchase the more expensive NA replacement as an option below" https://www.z1motorsports.com/water-pump-fan-and-thermostat/nissan/300zx-fan-clutch-oem-p-1709.html

I may have missed something here (I've not had to do this job) however reading the quide from the Australian site (RHD cars) for "dash in" heater core replacement states that the heater core is removed by: "9. Look now at the side of heater box itself and you will see a little bracket that holds in the heater core. It is held in place by one screw that swings out of the way when it is loosened and voila!... the heater core will slide out of the heater box" No mention is made of removing the heater box itself. That you have removed the dash should make access even easier. http://www.pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_plugins/content/content.php?content.341

Although the link below and discussion is for a Selin setup it does cover removing the T piece and why it makes a big difference. "The reason dual pops work is that stock, the 2 sides are fighting for air in the tee, both sides are pulling from the same center section causing the turbos to work much harder to suck air." Greg@SZ. This seems to be the key and you can see the sort of gains that are being reported on dynos with the Selin setup. http://www.twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg.aspx?forum=general&msg_id=2416119