AndrewG

Welcome to the Club. Post up details of your purchase and what you need help with.

And no self-respecting gentleman's Z32 should be without one!

Yes and it pays to make sure the journalist has written down your name correctly!

Article featuring Club members and their cars published in Japanese Performance Magazine May 2002...

Would a convertible interest you? https://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?185398-For-Sale-Red-convertible/

Article featuring Club members and their cars published in J-Tuner Magazine August 2006...

TonyB, would you mind fixing your PB sig? It just looks a bit naff.

Strickly no touching though.

Well don't be shy - keep us all up to date on your progress!

The scandal was that they were groped.

Lovely example of a Slicktop Peter.

1546 of 1548. It does make me wonder if 1547 and 1548 are still around...

Where will it all end? What a grey world we are all moving to.

I would like to introduce Mark Dodd, owner of the GTR-Registry.com website. One of the things that Mark has done is to reverse engineer the Nissan FAST database to produce complete data listings by VIN of car models held in the FAST database. As far as I am aware this has not been done before (http://gtr-registry.com/). I'm delighted to say that this has now been extended to include all the Z32s manufactured for the UK and European markets: http://gtr-registry.com/en-300zx-z32-uk-europe.php Total numbers manufactured by market (RHD/LHD), transmission type (manual or auto) and paint colour are available. (The little plus symbols on the left hand side next to the Date ranges (VIN ranges) expand manual and auto info). The UK/Euro data listing is searchable by individual VIN or the data displayed can be filtered by VIN date ranges, RHD/LHD and colour. Each VIN entry includes a breakdown of the model code to show that car's features and options (further model code details are at the bottom of the table). Mark will be along shortly to introduce himself and I hope you will give him a warm welcome for the amazing resource he has created for us. I would add that he is also working on the JDM version of the above and will be able to give further details himself.

Pop some of this in your washer reservoir...

Why not take it to an injector specialist and have it cleaned and they will also tell you its flow rate.

These are the ABS self-diagnosis pages from the FSM. The led is located on the ABS control unit behind the drivers seat trim panel. br 38-39.pdf

It may be due to an air lock in the cabin heater circuit. Put the heater control on full (max temp) and run the engine off idle for a few minutes. Raising the front of the car can help (as in parked facing up a hill).

Those injectors on the right are pintleless injectors. New Nismo 555cc injectors are purple:

I asked because the evidence on TT.net is that they don't cause problems with the VG30DETT. You can search TT.net and see for yourself. As to the risk of using them, I can quote Greg@SZ however "We have installed tons of these pulleys (UR) and have not had one engine failure due to the pulley. This is true for inline engines and those built with poor engineering/balancing. We use these on our own vehicles." In the case of cheap ebay (or other poorly manufactured pulleys) then yes you are right in being concerned, but that doesn't mean that all lightweight crank pulleys are bad for the VG30DETT.

Can you provide evidence to support your assertion that was the reason for the main bearings failing?

Here you go: http://www.pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_plugins/content/content.php?content.503

A well-rounded outcome Lee.

Do you happen to know the magazine and date that advert appeared in?

The metal fixings 3,6,10 and 11 (in the parts diagram) came with the J6030-42P28 part. I didn't use the plastic clips (item 4) and adhesive strips 2,14 and 16. They don't come with the new spoiler part. In my experience the adhesive strips fail to remain watertight and allow water ingress which in turn damages the spoiler with rot. To provide a permanent water tight seal, I bonded the spoiler (Sikaflex or similar) to the tailgate along the inside of the leading edge (where the adhesive strips would have gone) and along the bottom edge of the "wings". The picture below shows the metal fixings (arrowed) and I've circled two of the six plastic fixing points that are along the leading edge of the spoiler. If you are removing an old stock spoiler then you will find it easier to remove the spoiler if you break off the six plastic fixing clips from inside the boot lid. Use a long screwdriver or chisel. You may then find that the spoiler will lift away without needing to cheese wire the adhesive strip on the leading edge.