markzx

Hey really sorry to see this. Glad you were Ok and hope the car will repair.

Hi and Welcome 1_robbo I've told you Pete you need to get a big Lego sticker with another saying racing underneath it for the sides and people will think its a proper sponcered race car and a cool finish:slap: :rofl: :rofl:

Good Tyres is the first and most dramatic upgrade to handling and stopping and the upgrade most people miss. They don't build a race car and then look for tyres to make their set up work. They start with the tyres and work up from there. Then Brakes, Suspension, making sure everything mechanically is sound, that the rad and coolers arn't blocked or holed and that the cam belt, oil and water pump have bean changed at the recomended the sixty thousand mile or 5 year intervals. Then when you turn up the wick you've less chance of serious failure. Which quite often means £3K + repairs. Get it right before you go steaming in for more boost and fuel. Remeber all these mods have to be declared to your insurer or your insurance is null and void. My recomendation for Tyres is Bridgestone S02's or Mitchelin Pilot Sports. Perreli Rosso's are OK, but most of the rest are just make weights or Grade A ditch finders

I hear where your coming from, but these days it just doesn't always follow that the better job is the more expensive. Hence my question.

If he is around there then I should be similar, but just not realy had time to get it set up on the rolling road etc. Then Bazza G's car should be around the 600bhp mark once its run in and set up properly.

Whis one is which Pete??

Hi and welcome to the club If you have enough dosh and can wait till September I'll be selling my Blue 2+2. It wil have a wide arse by then aswell. The Spec in my rides section is out of date as i've done quite a bit more since then and the car car is a 94.

Yep was a dam good week for sure. I'd be up for it again as well. You keep your pasport hand these days? You may even get on the same Ferry as everyone else next time.

Right how many people would like a good after market Manifold for the NA. ie Alunox as in Smithy's group buy, Stillen as in the man who really did get TT+ power and performance out of a NA, Z1 a copy of Stillen or Flea Bay. How much would you think was a good price

There is a FAQ on here somewhere?

Nend had one a full Jun Engine for sale las summer. Complete with Jun cams, valves, lifters and springs. He was asking £11K. I said no thanks.

Chris you need to do the earth wire jobby so your dip stays on when you switch to Hi. Then rather than spend £100 on a HID kit for main Beam. Nip down to Al Frauds and get a pair of the Ultra bulbs in the blue box. They are about £14 each, butthe light colour is as blue white as the HID (they are gas charged) and they are much more powerful than the PIAA's etc. I'll take a pic of mine and you'll see you canot tell the difference between the HID's and the Ultra Hi's. I get flash for blinding people with my Dip beam and fry em with both on.

No Deffo 9500 rpm Na not supercharged.

Yep all red outer rings are tail & brake lights. + I know funky Si don't believe me but the brake light in my boot skin and my spoiler are LED. No issuse, mmm I know I've too many brake lights, but no one has run into the back of this Zed. You need to keep both circuits intact and put a resistor and voltage dropper on them to provent the warning bulb for the brakes.

Traction Control Technical Launch Control -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Launch control is a function within the Traction Control system designed to automate standing starts to maximise the initial acceleration. It is activated by pressing a button on the dashboard when the car is stationary. This will bring in a secondary rev-limit (for example 4000 rpm). The throttle can be fully depressed without over-revving the engine. The car is put into gear, the throttle floored, and then the clutch is engaged, whilst the launch control system controls the wheelspin and revs for the perfect start. On a turbo car, if the launch control is active, and full throttle is given for two to three seconds, the boost pressure will build up before the clutch is released, resulting in stunning off-the-line performance. The launch control rev limit can be programmed via a laptop computer or by a combination of presses on the launch control button. This is done by pressing it once, and then once again but this time holding it in and raising the revs to the desired level, then the button is released, setting the new rev limit to this level. This makes it very easy to re-program the launching revs just before a start if conditions suddenly change. There are various parameters you can tune if you want to get the last little bit of acceleration out of the system. You can have two switchable levels for wet and dry, the level of wheelspin at which the system swaps from Launch Control to traction Control can be adjusted, and on the professional system you can even switch to a lower limit once the car starts to move.

There are several ways of doing it. There is The Racelogic system which incooperates Traction control and launch control and will cost you about £600 ish. A group buy also happening at the moment here. There is the aftermarket ECU managment systems like AEM (see Smithy's place in trades section) Omex and Emeral among many others that incooperate both TC and Launch within the management, These tend to be around £1100 to £1200, but have real big tuning advances aswell. Most of the purely launch systems I've seen are coil based controls and limited to I and 2 coil systems so bear that in mind when buying and the Zed is a coil per cylinder.

That was a LS2 with loom and ECU, but no ancillary's. Full blown series 1 blueprinted engine complete with every thing. A plug in and go all forged internals and delivering 475 + HP and 490 Torque at 9500rpm + 12 month warrenty = £7,500.

That is a real nice looking lump. and a very nice job to boot. Is that the same engine as Mantav8 or a later engine? What BHP does it push, but more importantly what are the torque figures? Why would it cost another £5500 to supercharge it? I was quoted a few weeks back from a crowd in the Kit Car mag at £3900 for a Chevy 5.7 with super charge ECU and full EFI loom. Supposedly reconded and ready to drop in. As i'm looking at this for my shorty when its done.

You need the 8mm reinforced stuff not just the 8mm vacunm pipe.

Are these pics any help as they are a bit clearer

You can just see the pasenger forgetting to fasten their seat belt and getting sucked staight through as the driver hit the afterburner. Were de go

Sorry Guys I had a Dinner Dance To do with my lads college and I over did it a little. Still feeling sh1te. I was going to pick Chris C up on my way so i hope he made it.

Done Liam and PM sent Tracking info etc, + they say they delivered yesterday morning.

Sorry dear you are completely wrong. The car must have a minimum of third party insurance if it is parked on the road. It could be damaged by another car and then a passer buy may cut themselves, fall against it and injure themselves or purely by being there it could cause an obstruction to the emergency services, Sh1t I could sit here all day telling you reasons why your car could make you liable if it is on a public highway. If it's yours and not on your private property you are liable for any event.

I'm detecting a lot of anger here.