markzx

The main point of it Chris is so they only get you doing 20 mph above the speed limit, instead of 50 or 60. Not that I advocate such speeds anywhere unless you have a clear field of vision for a mile or so. In which case you see any danger (including Speed traps) well in advance and slow down. Only time it has gone off on me (NO Thats a different story :slap: :rofl: ) is when I was doing about 40 in a 30. You all now the areas that have sprung up everywhere where the national speed limit used to drop to 40 for a mile or 2 before going to 30 as you entre the built up areas. Now known as speed trap allys.

I've just bought an other and both are fine and well. The blue car does about 200 mile a week.

They do look nice

Yep your right. My Dyslexia means I often reads things completely different to what is actually written :headvswal . Any good Snooper type device will pickthem up, but may also pickup automatic doors and vehical counters on certain types of traffic lights. I have a Snooper Neo 6 and it goes of every time I go down the A483 as you go past the retail park, because of all the automatic doors.

Yes they do work at detecting Lazers. The will defuse the signal and stop them getting a reading. You have about 5 seconds to slow down and switch it of so they can get a reading or they'll know what your doing and pull you for obstructing the Police in the line of an enquirey. 6 point and a big fine if they make it stick. Of cousre I have these for my up an over Garage and may accidently knock iy on. however as soon as it alarms me of a signal I switch it off.

Well done there sir. I always thought it would be better to have a North Wales and a South Wales Events organiser all the inhabbitants of wales either live on the South coast or 10 miles in from and the same with the North Coast and not much in between. So there really is 2 distinct and distant regions. I takes 3 to 4 hours from Wrexham to Tenby

Your oil will go black as soon as the car reaches temp and the regulator allows it to flow to the cooler, because it is still full of dirty oil. The only way to get your oil really clean is to use a flushing agent like Derv and then make sure you remove your oil cooler and clean it before reinstalling and refilling. Then run till reaches temp and retop up to correct level.

i hadn't seen eye to eye with him about a transaction, but to hear this terrible news is a shock. 27 is too young to die. My sincere and deepest sympathys are with his Family and loved ones.

Right here is what you must ask in your letter to them if you get a letter stating you were speeding and asking for information. Don't fill in the form as to do so is to addmit libility. Just start your letter by saying that the car is yours, that you were driving it on that day, that you saw the van and that you kept your speed within the speed limit. Give them details of your insurance and driver licence number, but do not surrender your licence to the courts. Then Say that if the intend to persue this allogation could they furnish you with the following information so as to assist you with preparing your deffence. 1) What equipement was being used and the serial number of the actual equipment used in this instance. 2) A copy of the manufacturers opperation manual and not the UK distributors 3) Information as to How the equipment was mounted 4) What were the weather conditions on that day and in particular the maximum wind speeds. 5) The means buy which the van was made static, ie outrigger arms etc. 6) Where were the opperators in the van and what were they doing. 7) Copies of the equipments daily caliberation sheets 8) The means used to position the Van and therefore camera to ensure that paning did not occure. ie equipment used for this and calibration figures. Every single person I know that as asked these questions has recieved a letter saying "On this occation no further action will take place".

Sorry I didn't make it chaps but I had a unexpected Airport run to collect the outlaws. Will be at Tan Hill though.

I have had some well wierd things go wrong with my car in the past including loosing the earth from the ECU. The cars are getting on now and many of the soldered sockets in the ECU are going dry and need resoldering. well worth a few hours with the old soldering iron.

I had my front and rear screens replaced and it cost me £60. Both Genuine Nissan UK blue/blue on my insurance. Front had a chip in the drivers wiper ark and legally should be replaced though most MOT garages wouldn't notice a repare and rear screen replaced because the heater element wasn't working. All brand new trim. Couldn't believe how much brighter it is.

Problem is finding someone who is a good enough pannel beater to make them. Really looking classic car restorers and ther generally know how to charge.

I think SPL parts are top quality and I don't think it would take a lot to be better quality than Tien, but I'd wager these will perform better as well. you thinking of a Group Buy?

Happy birthday chaps Have a good'n

Once you scrutinise it there are loads of bits that don't marry up well and i'm really starting to think of it as an utter wassum nut of a body kit.

I think your rims are better

I know but they are very similar to the explsion arches in the style he's had done. Talking to Mitch from AMZ. He told me that collede boy wanted the Explosin arches , but they would have cost $3000 to import and having them made was far cheeper.

Funky Si has some pics. I have some on my PC at home but not at work I have a couple of the Explosion arches, but they have been butchered a bit and this car is a bit of an abortion. Black SWB is a bit like the Explosion but more extreme

Here you go ENGINE / MECHANICAL Try to avoid very early Z's '89/jan-feb '90, due to possible cylinder-head and valve problems. TT's with engine-numbers below 619550 or NA's with numbers below 777599 may be subject to this problem. If unsure check with Nissan. Try to get a full service history (if car has been serviced by Nissan, they should be able to get you a list with EVERYTHING that has been done to the car in the past) Have a compression-test done Preferably go see the car in the morning, when the engine is still cold from standing overnight or arrange a time when you can view the car from cold. Also arrange to go for a long test-drive (60 minutes) If the seller doesn't want to cooperate with you on this matter, walk away and go find another car listen for weird sounds during test-drive. (whining or rattling noises from the engine bay is not a good sign) Watch the boost-gauge (TT's only) during idle. The needle should be to the far left (around the -14)..this shows that the engine is in good shape: If the needle is closer to the middle of the gauge during idle, it might indicate the engine has compression problems or there are vacuum leaks in the system. (usually comes together with rough idle): Once warmed up, the engine should idle as smooth as silk...no vibrations at all. A rough idle may indicate there's something wrong oil pressure should be between 30 and 60 psi during normal driving During idle the oil-pressure should be around 10-15psi Timing belt should have been replaced every 60k miles..make sure this has been done ! check for play in the rear Axel - try to get them to jack up each side and check for excessive lateral movement in the wheels. Also check for vibrations thru the seat upto and over 80mph / Motorway speeds. Cooling system - TT's are a lot more prone to overheating problems than NA's Take the care for a long test drive - check the gauges in car and look in the near side wheel well for signs of coolant expulsion weak points: Fuel smell (especially when the engine is cold) This is usually caused by hoses that have become brittle/dry. TURBO'S drive the car hard during the test-drive (with engine fully warmed up) and take a good look at the boost-gauge maximum boost-level on a stock 300Z should be around around 9psi, 0.6bar: (..bare in mind that the stock boost-gauge might not be very accurate.) If it doesn't go past the first positive line (7psi) it's in safety-boost and something is probably wrong: Note: It's very hard for someone that has never driven a Z before to tell the difference between normal boost and safety boost, so if you're unsure take it to Nissan or ask someone that owns a 300ZXTT to come along with you If the needle wanders off the scale, the boost has been increased...this might give you a nice push in the back, but without the right chip this is NOT good: If the needle doesn't get past 0, there might be something seriously wrong with the turbos or there's a wastegate sticking: If the boost-meter doesn't work at all, then the seller is probably trying to hide something. (run away) listen carefully for whining or whistling sounds as soon as the boost starts to build. you shouldn't be able to hear the stock turbos (unless you have the windows wide open and drive through a tunnel) Check for smoke during heavy acceleration (rearview mirror) After the test-drive let the car idle and open the hood and see if smoke or a burning smell is coming from the area around turbos or on the bottom of the car Let the car idle for at least 5 minutes and see if blue smoke is coming from the exhaust, which indicates that the turbo-seals are probably on their way out. weak points: Z's with over 60 - 70K miles is in danger of failed turbos/seals - if they have been well looked after with regular servicing and good quality oil the turbos and seal can last to over 120K. White smoke is usually ok for a while as that is often steam although prolonged white smoke can be a symptom of head gasket / cylinder hear problems. GEARBOX try to avoid automatics from '89/'90/early '91, especially higher mileage ones.. (the early automatic-gearboxes have overheating problems, due to a design-flaw) Automatics: check (dipstick) oil-color and smell of gearbox-oil (dipstick is behind the engine). Very dark or black oil and/or burned smell is not a good sign. Automatics: Do an automatic-gearbox diagnostic (automatics only) : ( http://www.twinturbo.net/ttnettech/autodiag/autodiag.html ) check for oil leakage from gearbox/differential Manuals: check for grinding (ALL gears, up AND downshifting) Manuals: make sure the clutch bearings aren't making a lot of noise. They can make a little noise for 30K miles or more. But a lot of noise usually indicates an upcoming clutch replacement weak points: Manuals can have problems with the hydraulic system that operates the clutch (leaks or air in the system, causes slipping clutch or soft pedal) BRAKES Check the calipers, see if they look all the same. check brake rotors during test-drive (shaking steering wheel while braking) weak points: The brake master cylinder on '89,'90-'91 cars will begin leaking (at around 40-50K miles). The new part is redesigned and is supposed to be better. Stock rotors on the '90+ Z's can warp quite easily. (Warped rotors will cause the steering wheel to shake while braking) BODY Lift up any rubber seals on the car even around the windows & look for a paint edge. Check every wheel well & even see if you can lift up the edge of the liner to see if there is a paint edge. Open the hood & hatch. Check the bolts that hold the quarter panel on, they should be covered with factory paint & look like it's never been removed, if it's been removed you will know it because it's near impossible to line it back up & not show where bolt location was previously. Check the gaps on both sides of hood, should be small & equal. Check the gaps right under door where fender meets door, make sure same on both sides. Check gaps on both sides of bumpers front & back, also the gaps between the doors should be equal on both sides of the car. Open doors & look through hinge areas for messed up sheet metal on the pillar. Check in back upper hatch seal area for signs of wreck. Always look in the spare tire well. (leaks, rust, etc) Look for OEM glass & always check for cracked windshield this is easy to miss & not uncommon (windows for the Z are very costly) Look up under the bumper at the frame that connects to it, look under hood area at that also, this is what gets straightened from a head on collision. Whatever you do NEVER & I mean NEVER buy a car at night! Even if you go where lights are. In the day look down the body for dings & depressions especially since Zs are durasteel. Use a small magnet to check the body parts for filler-repairs. Check lights for condensation, though sometimes this is not indicative or wreck, check the seal area & alignment around the lights very hard to get to factory spec. weak points: The spoiler on the TT's is made of some kind of foam that integrates in time The paint on the spoiler will start to bubble and crack and allows the foam to act as a sponge...result: hatch will start to rust. T-tops are prone to leak more body-stuff checking: http://www4.bs.monash.edu.au/oz32/Tech/NewZ.htm ELECTRICAL Check ECU for error codes ( http://www.ttzd.com/tech/diagnostic/diagnostic.html ) If everything's ok, the ECU will come up with code 55. BTW: a Nissan dealer should be able to perform this check also by using an ECU-consult...this consult will also check for errors in the ECU's for the HICAS, ABS and ECU of the automatic-gearbox (if present) weak points: Alternators on the Z are crap and some last only 50K miles.(so if the owner has installed a big ICE, expect the alternator to go soon) ignition system power unit (PTU) will go sooner or later. (they last around 6 years) The electrical connectors become very brittle, due to high temperatures under the hood. Especially the TT's suffer from this and it may lead to all sorts of problems Knock or detonation-sensor (or actually the wires to the sensor) is prone to failure. This sensor is very costly to replace. A broken knock-sensor will cause the car to run in safety-boost and have a big impact on the performance of the car (NA's also ! ) Remember that the standard gauges are crap so if they have good aftermarket gauges use them as your reference rather than the standard ones

I sort of liked the blue Beet 300zx, but always thought where the rear arch and rear bumper meet that it was a bit crap. The longer I've looked at this car the more I'm thinking that its a waist of a realy nice AB-Flug front bumper. Really think its a crap kit now. sorry. College boys Zed is still the only type of wide arch for me (Explosion kit)

Get a piece of white paper, open the door and place the paper behind the glass. You'll soon tell weather it is Blue Bronze or Green tint. I have just had my front and rear replaced and was asked by auto glass which tint it was. According to Nissan the UK models came mainly with blue or green, but some early cars had the Bronze. Most Jspec cars I've seen are bronze though some of the 1996 Jspec cars I've seen have the blue.

Every thing he said is what I do. Scarey :shock:

I'd be up for this and Maybe the north West tribe might be interested, but then you lot would have to come over to North Wales for a weekend of Paint ball 400 pro karts and glass bottom peering. That is of corse if your man enough :slap: :nono: :nono:

Is it that place oppersite Stainsbugers or is it the place just under the bypass on the A41.