SuffolkZX

Ebay

It does not need much to do a waterpump and is a fairly large tube, if your happy to send it back once you have done what you want it for I can send mine over to you.

I personally think adjusting the base idle is the last thing you should do as your going to be compensating for other problems should they exist, go through the whole system, make sure its right then at the end if needed disconnect the AAC solenoid and adjust the base idle.

You dont see many F plates, check your VIN number and see just how early that one was off the production line. Looks like a nice example.

ATF fluid .

Quote from another site in case its of any help ... "Hey Folks, At our last Tampa Z meet, a bud pointed out that when we open the throttle, a tab on the connecting shaft butts against a stop, keeping the butterfly valves from opening all the way. He had heard the reason for this was that it was Nissans way of keeping HP within limits ... lawyers, federal regs, insurance, and such. A careful look confirms that there's another 5 - 7 degrees to go before the throttle is truly at full open! Actually, at least on my 93, there is an adjusting screw/stop at the linkage of the left/right connecting rods. That adjusts balance between the banks. But the tab which restricts the overall throw of the connecting rod/butterflies has no adjustment screw. Equally, there is no adjustment on the stop. It's just a stump of the aluminum cast. (FYI the earlier cars have an adjustment screw stop in this location.) Step on the gas, and the cable rotates the connecting rod until that bare tab(ear) coming off the rod smacks into the stump of aluminum on the plenum. To all TT folks, take careful notice as to just how far away from parallel our butterflies are stopped!!

I do like the new wheel, been thinking about a Momo nero for myself, fed up having to put my head on one side to see the clocks so going for a slightly bigger one next time.

Has the connector to the passenger side switch become loose? this will also stop the window operating from drivers side.

They may fight for every tenth of a second but its still boring watching the F1 procession, other forms of motorsport are so much more exciting to watch and this is suppose to be the pinnacle?

From oil filters, to mats, to the weather and happy anniversary, where are we going next, world diplomatics?

Have you swollowed a dictionary?

I use Carole Nash, about £180 a year.

When I was about 20 (a while ago I know) my mate offered me his 240z for £200, was in ok condition, MOTed and a little rusty round the edges, wonder what that would be worth now?

The majority of posts on here are from people wanting help with problems so an outsider reading through them could well come up with the impression they are a nightmare and unreliable, its not too often people post up and say how there car is running hitch free, but there are many of us that find the 300zx to be reliable fun and something they are proud of so try not to worry about what may have been said.

Autometer guages, well trusted and reliable guages, you get cheaper makes on ebay that light up different colours and do a sweep test when starting up but they are all show and no go !

Good luck with the new sensor, its fair to say, if this one is the same the problem lies elsewhere !!!

I think Legrath has already pointed out the good and bads points of each, yes a TT can be a nightmare, but so can an NA, any 20 year old car can be if its not looked after. My preference is the NA but lots of people would disagree with me.

I think your best bet is find a few near you, drive them and decide if you want a TT or NA.

Haha, good man !! but that quote may get a few remarks !!

Also I believe you have to be 25 years old and have the use of another vehicle.

If it was in really nice condition I would pay that, but I would go with the cash in my pocket and start the haggling at £5k. Not so happy about it having a new engine but hopefully Jeff at Zedworkd can shed some light on that.

I would say ask Zedworld for an opinion if they have worked on it, looks clean, certainly not the only T reg you will find but there are not many about, looks nice and clean, as for wether its a TT or NA, could be either so ask the seller or Jeff if you talk to him.

There are many things that effect the idle on these cars, I would say the best way to deal with the problem is go through all the items on the links I posted earlier, one thing I will say concerning the engine cutting out after you rev it is .... When setting the base idle you are suppose to remove the connector to the AAC, on my SWB when I did this if I revved the engine it would almost cut out then the idle speen would go back to normal, once I connected it up again then idle stayed constant when revving, perhaps your connector is loose or in need of cleaning !

I know many people have idle issues so here is the outcome of all the work, my issue was high idle and it seems the AAC valve on the IAA unit had become gummed up, all dismantled and cleaned out with carb spray and back to 770 rpm.

I believe if the Air regulator is at fault it leads to a high idle, if the IAA unit is at fault it leads to a fluctuating idle. Here are a couple of links that go into greater detail. http://www.es-ab.se/z-car/IdleTech.html http://www.es-ab.se/z-car/IdleTech2.html