SuffolkZX

I took my spare IAA unit apart and cleaned it all up, checked the resistance and operation of solenoids just to find that its different to the one I removed so I did this one as well, my gaskets also fell apart but I have some gasket paper here to make one up with a drop of hylomar for good measure.

I am equipped with a 1/4 drive deep 10mm socket for tomorrow so fingers crossed!

The air regulator is the cold start mechanism, the IAA unit controls idle settings.

Is this any help ? http://www.twinturbo.net/ttnetfaq/FAQpages/O2s.html

If you run out of ideas I have some working used o2 sensors, your welcome to swap it and see what that does to the reading.

I dont think the reading is so important as long as long as it fluctuates.

If it hardly moves on Conzult then it show a dead o2 sensor, if they are new is the connector on securely?

Thanks for that, I have removed all pipes and connectors I can, also got the IAA unit off first to give me some room, those connectors had never been off and the plastic disintegrated !! also seems my IAA unit is different to the spare one I have so will take this one apart to clean and check then refit.

If you know the exact location let me know and I could pop over to take a look if its not too far away, I am on holiday this week and got plenty of spare time.

Has anyone removed the air regulator, and if so how did you get to the bottom screw? I can not even get a finger to it so am I missing a trick here or is it really only possible with the plenum/engine removed?

I know since its been computerised you can call up your MOT history for the past few years inc reason for failure etc but wether this info flashes up in MOT stations I do not know.

I hope she took her heels off to save the paintwork !

Just when you think you have seen it all, ZedPorn !

Not sure about your question but if the cable to the ECU is not put back on properly it will cause a misfire.

Z1 does these, dont recall seeing it it on any UK site but might be worth while asking Danny at DTA.

Info taken from the service manual for the NA incase its needed by anyone in the future ..... PFR5B-11 hot type PFR6B-11 standard PFR7B-11 cold type The Nissan part number of 1P116 cross references to NGK PFR6G-11. Torque setting 14 - 22 ft lb Gap preset to 1.1 mm 16mm plug wrench required, replace every 60k miles or 48 months.

As the title please, which spark plugs do you use? I can find the following listed via different sites so wondered what other input I can get from you all. PFR5B-11 PFR6G-11 PFR6B-11 Plus other numbers for iridium / v power etc, only interested in the NA so please dont clutter it up with turbo versions. :D

No, one of the fuses work the memory side of things, so its just resetting to the default temp whenever you turn off the ignition.

I think I saw someone on here quote about £600, it may say on Zedworlds site, they have a few prices quoted, if not ask Jeff, he will give you an idea and can supply the box as well.

Blown fuse then if the battery connections are ok.

I think they keep most of the cars from the show in a hangar near the set, I am sure you should be able to find one in your budget if you look hard enough, I have seen a few bargains lately, or as ck say's, a conversion should not set you back too much.

Thats not the actual car, although the ad is worded to make you think it is.

haha, you even replied on that thread !! one too many beers was it?

Yes there was, I remember saying happy birthday, but happy birthday again 40 !!!!!

I think the red one was a standard bumper with swage lines filled, it was red and went to Bruntingthorpe for a magazine shoot, thats about all I seem to remember, was a few years ago so forgive me if my memory is wrong, gives you an idea what to search for.