Noz

I reckon your car is going to blitz TOTB this year. No pressure :laugh: Interesting. The USDM timing map is identical to the JDM timing map apart from pulling some timing at high revs and at 3600-4400RPM on WOT, no doubt due to det with the grade 5 plugs. Still more advanced than the EDM maps on boost. The only thing I could find after a quick bit of Googling was an old post by yourself about 5-11c & 5-11b on the Aus site :laugh: Running the US plug in UK & JDM cars would not be an upgrade if they had 5-11b as standard though, or do you mean 6-11b? Still worries me running anything hotter than a 7. Yeah, I've never had issues with 8s apart from with the 200sx when cruising at motorway speeds for extended periods, they used to coke up slightly so you'd need to give it a bit of a brief kicking :D

I've eaten ostrich & crocodile, but neigh horsemeat.

Christ, it's everywhere... A Hynudai Getz runs grade 5 plugs!! But anyway, thanks to all that has responded. Haribo (and pastel coloured candy necklaces) will be dispensed in due course come September. :D

Yeah mate, I run BCR8ES in the Zed, Pulsar & MR2. I ran them in my S13 (approx 233bhp/litre) and my Cosworth (~360 bhp). If I'm not looking to really push something, then it will be a set of BKR7E that goes in. It's not because they are cheap, they work out more expensve than long-life plugs in the long run. I could go on & on (no surprise there lol) about plugs, but it's a contentious subject (like oil & safe boost levels...) so I'll just link to a thread HERE. Suffice to say, I will never run a thin-wire platinum or iridium plug in any of my cars. Det is engine death in my eyes, even though engines can run for tens of thousands of miles with mild detonation. Many years ago I ran a well-known map on a turbocharged car which resulted in melting two NGK BCPR7ES plugs. The map was too advanced, but thankfully because the plugs caused a massive misfire before any further damage could occur, the pistons were saved. There was no warning, no noises, just a misfire after a short run at WOT, but if something is going to give, I want it to be soft copper which leads to a misfire before a melted piston or shot big ends. It was this that started me investigating a colder plug which resulted in the BCR8ES, and I'm yet to find a reason not to fit them to every Jap car that runs over 1.1-1.2 bar. For me, they are a wonder plug! They are not the correct length for the VG head (only the -11b are IIRC), but it's a small price to pay for the huge amount of heat-range 'headroom' and peace of mind that gives when mapping. Spark plugs have a very simple job, and whilst there are certain methods you can use to 'improve' them (side-gapping & indexing), a spark is a spark. You have to be careful gapping platinum & iridium plugs. Generally, yes you reduce the gap when increasing the boost. In practice, there is no specific gap once you begin modifications and increasing the boost, it is ideal to run the widest gap possible before the spark is blown out, as a lot depends on the condition of the ignition system components. On my S13, I had to go down to 0.6mm, my Pulsar plugs are gapped at 0.85mm with 1.9 bar of boost. I thought I'd ask about the plugs people use because I wonder if a lot of people are running higher boost on a platinum grade 6 plug because of information such as this: According to that, the stock heat grade for a TT is a 5, and it suggests a .78mm gap for running 18psi on the specially-designed grade 6 platinum plug that sits a long way into the combustion chamber. I'm at a loss as to how it can be recommended to run 18psi on a grade 6 plug of any material, let alone a platinum one :blink: I also worry that people might read some of my posts and think it's safe to run 1.4 bar or 400+bhp on grade 6 plugs when I'm probably the only one running BCR8ES, it's not something I always mention, but it's a very important aspect :blush:

I'm looking to do some research into the spark plugs that people use in their TT Zeds. If you could post up, along with your spec, the make & type of plugs you have used in the past and are using now, plus any other useful info, that would be great :thumbup: Everyone who posts will get a single (1) Haribo at JAE :laugh: CheerZ.

Been a few years since I went hooning round Combe. I should be there.

It's difficult writing in snow on a 45° surface :laugh:

Brilliant, the more the merrier!

[ATTACH=CONFIG]66906[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]66907[/ATTACH] These last two pictures show what appears to be severe detonation damage around the lip of the bore, the final picture highlights this best, which would have resulted in the cracked ringlands and the subsequent vertical damage down the bore from the blow-by. Saw exactly the same damage on an RB26DETT block at the rear of cylinder 6, running 500+bhp with a faulty fuel pump causing it to run lean on boost. It's the most common failure on Skyline engines. Too much boost, too much heat, too much knock.

Here to help as always. Plus I'm a geek :online2long: Please note that the spreadsheets show the airflow requirements of a 3.0L engine, whereas the data plots are simply halved for a 1.5L engine (i.e. specifically for use with compressor maps for our twin-turbo set up). Volumetric Efficiency (VE) can be calculated for your own engine from data logs, where VE=(Mass Air Flow x Air Temp)/(RPM x Air Pressure). It is a parameter that varies with RPM. Here it is assumed as a constant 93% for all engine speeds. Air flow is measured in lb per min for these calcs, typically because that is the unit Garrett like to use. Elsewhere, CFM (Cubic Feet per Metre) is used regularly. lb/min = CFM x 0.07. PR = Pressure ratio. Method 1 uses calculations & assumptions from 'Forced Induction Performance Tuning' by A. Graham Bell: Displacement is in Litres. Method 1 Data Plot: Method 2 uses a more detailed calculation from the Garrett website: VE = 93% Displacement is in cu in = Litres x 61.02374. R = Avogadros Gas Constant = 639.6 when using imperial measurements. Tm = Intake temp, assumed to be 130° Fahrenheit. MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) = psi + 14.7 (atmos). Method 2 Data Plot: These calculations can be used in conjunction with BHP & boost requirement calculations to determine or assess the suitability of any engine/turbo combination. The results above differ from the plot I posted before, but they all give a good estimation. Happpy boosting!!

Hi mate, Trust me, your English is better than my Spanish, German, French etc!! Rather than take this thread off-topic, I'll post on the thread you quoted with the data you need :) Here you go: http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?161833-What-s-a-sensible-boost-for-a-300zx-on-stock-engine&p=1704523&viewfull=1#post1704523

Haha, a Zed's a Zed! There should be no divide, and definitely no hating! I blame Slick Pete, he's always banging on about lardy LWB TT Autos. Sure he called mine a saloon or something equally offensive when I had that steering wheel off him.... :winkiss: Anyhoo, welcome Kurtt! :thumbup:

Totally agree with all the sentiments regarding streeto dorifto! However, all I was thinking when watching that is how badly I need an E34 M5 in my life :whistling:

Yup, the stock Nissan ECU is a wonderful piece of equipment when mapped properly :)

Snow angels aren't as cool as snow lemonade.

Two days is preferable, especially as the car may have an underlying issue that needs investigating in this case. Sending a PM to you now.

The most likely time you'll hear detonation is when coming onto boost at full throttle, it's less likely to occur further up the rev range, plus it's harder to hear due to noise/engine noise/exhaust/tyre noise etc. Knock isn't always audible, though. Don't worry too much about having bypassed the knock sensor, it's only in operation at 3200 RPM and below: This week should be fine, I'll get back to you ASAP :)

Engine detonation (aka knock, pinging, pinking etc) sounds like an empty bag of crisps being crumpled. Or some marbles rattling around in a metal container. High-pitched crackling noise. Full works dyno remap, not a problem. Just let me know as & when :) Have a read through my section mate: http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/forumdisplay.php?170-Turbonoz

See here for a compressor map for actual efficiency islands: http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?161833-What-s-a-sensible-boost-for-a-300zx-on-stock-engine&p=1703156&viewfull=1#post1703156 There is a lot of evidence, on here and from results all over the world that they work just fine at higher boosts than 16.5 psi. The compressor map should be accepted as the be-all & end-all really, and there is lots of room for manoeuvre above & beyond what is "accepted". Sorry, I'm not sure what the difference between "safe map" and "very very safe map" is, but I'm just trying to point out to the owner & OP that it isn't a "safe map" at all. Overfueling doesn't prevent det, its purpose is for additional cylinder cooling in applications that might require it, such as prolonged track use. Correct timing & fuel octane is what prevents knock. All you're going to get with an overly-rich mixture is the promotion of pre-ignition due to all the carbon build up and subsequent hot-spots, plus an increase in compression ratio over time leading to an increase in the chance of actual detonation. HTH :)

Yeah, he mentioned it to me in a PM a while ago, although I'm most likely going to be running the MR2 and looking after another vehicle. However, my heart lies with the Zed and I would love to see some big power Zeds there (there's a Show 'n' Shine competition as well, which may be of interest to a few). If I can enter as a trader and part of the 300zx club with an MR2, that would be ideal, else I'll enter privately and try & park close by with lots of "Turbonoz" stickers :laugh:

A Zed running decent power and a low 12s will do well in the RWD class based on last year's times. There weren't any Supras competing from what I can remember... Would be good for the marque & the club to have a stand if at all possible, start clawing back some well-needed kudos. And resale values :whistling:

It's getting nice and white here too. Time to break out the Pulsar to keep me on the black stuff :biggrin:

Auto turbos run to a lot more than 15 psi if you want them to. It is far from a "safe map", running that rich is detrimental to engine health.

Have you got the Selin Translator set up correctly? You need to have it set to 'Add' if the chip is written for a single intake, and you're using 2 MAFs (not a single plus dummy MAF). What's the spec of the chip? It won't be your O2 sensors, there isn't lambda feedback on WOT. The OEM ECU is fine for the majority of people as it can be fully remapped as it is. It's only when you're looking for motorsport settings (full-throttle flat shifting, anti-lag etc) or improved resolution & knock control that you need to look at aftermarket solutions. I've personally run 1000cc injectors using a stock Nissan ECU on a 200SX, it was just like stock.

Don't worry, you will become famous soon enough :laugh: