Noz

9 years 2 months for mine :lol:

That's pretty swish mate! Which motorsport are you/your mate in?

Hahaha, I know. 4.9/10 on IMDB speaks volumes! I really struggled with it at the beginning, had me cursing the TV it was that bad. Just up until the point that the Coupe DeVille is launched on the motocross track in the 3rd ep, which also features Tanner hooning about in a Z31. For some reason, it's one of the funniest things I've seen and I just kept watching ever since. Glad I did, luckily I'm a fan of their humour and a massive fan of American cars (they feature a Merkur XR4Ti in one episode). I know, I know. I am the only one :lol:

Thank you for the kind words. Congratulations on buying an incredible car and having owned some amazing vehicles in the past. I haven't used Emerald myself (I'm a big Link ECU fan), so doubt I can be of any help specifically. I've got the software and will be looking through it when I get time (different software/system, exact same principles as mapping any other ECU). John is definitely your man and I'm sure once you've got a wideband lambda fitted and some logs recorded, you will have it running perfectly.

Finally, can't wait for some new episodes! I know it is pretty much universally hated, but I loved Top Gear USA. Tanner Faust's driving is simply staggering and the locations they filmed in (esp the Alaskan episode) were breathtaking. Worth watching from S01E03 onwards IMO once the hosts start playing off each other and it doesn't sound like some badly-written script. The cars they feature are quite often cheap sheds, which makes it really funny and relatable (despite being USA cars). Pretty sure I'm the only one who will have stuck with it, the first couple of episodes are really terrible!

Sorry for the minor hijack... John, are you still looking to pop over during January at some point? Would you mind dropping me a text on 07930 896964 or add me on Facebook. There are way too many John Dixons on there... Cheers.

Awesome club spirit :bow:

I test drove a Supra TT with BPU. It was a lovely car, but really didn't excite me. So I bought a 530bhp 4dr R32/R33 Skyline hybrid. That was fun, but I now have two 300ZX TTs. One is modified and used as a develpment vehicle for tuning, drag racing and daily driving. The other is bone stock. Both in black, both JDM Auto TTs. They are truly amazing cars (just Google "Car & Driver 300zx"), just a bit daunting to begin with, but you've got a wealth of information on here available to you covering every topic possible. Go for it, you won't regret it :thumbup1:

Baja!

Much appreciated, thank you :blush: Quite ironic really, I joined almost a decade ago to source a Z32 MAF for my S13 which I go on about all the time. Goes to show how long I've been tuning Nissans! Shame it took me so long to buy a Zed!

With regards to exhaust diameter, it's a bit of a moot point unless you're running decent elbows. Which is a shame, as they're kind of difficult to change. Component design is important to me as optimal choices means easier power and better results (mapping is basically the link between computer programming and mechanical engineering), so I keep a load of papers & books on this subject as I did a lot of research back in the day for Jaguar and then Mercedes Mclaren F1 in camshaft-tappet interaction and Tribology (http://www.ingentaconnect.com/content/maney/imr/2007/00000052/00000003/art00003 & http://oro.open.ac.uk/11240/) According to A. Graham Bell (my go-to guy for this sort of thing :lol:), you're looking at twin 2.5" for a 3L engine with 120-150bhp per litre. After that, go to twin 3-3.5" higher specific outputs. But as with everything, testing on a per-car basis is where the optimum will lie. Personally, I'm a fan of bigger-is-better (even though I continuously disprove that with my difficult-to-tune T78-powered 2L MR2). So true, so very true. I'd struggle to find the will to refit SMICs, front end looks menacing :devil2:

Just going through your PM now :laugh:

That doesn't make sense to me, there is still the balance bar equalising the pressure before it hits the individual cylinder chambers. No different than before. Also, that quote is from Mr AshSpec himself as to why he doesn't like FMICs, when promoting his own SMICs. I can't get my head around why there is a chance it will run one side dangerously lean. What is the reason for this chance? What's the probability of it occurring? Why doesn't it do it all the time? How come there are serious high-powered cars running FMICs just fine? I have wondered about the change of design in charge supply though. As with everything, I'll be investigating any disparities between the AFRs from both banks when I get chance.

Heat soak and air restriction is not an issue with FMICs. FMICs will always be a lot cooler than a rad, plus you have the effect of convection between rad & FMIC, so heat soak is relatively impossible. Air flows through the fins at any rate, so restriction not really an issue. The majority of modified turbocharged cars run them, just google images for FMIC and you get everything from Evos to A4s. We do have the option of SMICs, but I personally would rather shorten the intake tract. Reducing the restriction that a turbo has to suck air through is a well-known method of increasing response. The Zed needs all the help it can get given the placement of the turbos. They also come from the factory with an AC rad completely blocking the coolant rad. There is no difference between fitting an FMIC on a Zed as there is on any other car. With the Zed there is even more space due to the looooong nose. Cosworth RS500:

Short dual intakes placing the filters where SMICs sit is how the Zed is set up at the moment, which is why I didn't include SMICs. There are so many different ways in which to do things though, I definitely wasn't suggesting FMICs are better than SMICs, and the list wasn't intened to be definitive, just an example. I think that keeping the turbo intake piping as short and as straight as possible really benefits the way the engine responds on the road. Of course, with dual intakes, you've got to consider either twin MAFs & voltage adder/divider (Selin translator) or more involved mapping and idle balance bars etc. My ultimate spec as far as intercooling goes would be a bespoke charge cooler for each turbo with minimal piping.

Hello & welcome. You can use Photobucket for pics.

Thanks for these kind of questions, I don't expect anyone to accept my findings as gospel, but I will gladly talk (& post) all day about them :laugh: I would recommend swapping from the standard miniscule turbos immediately to everybody, but unfortunately, it's an engine out job. You need to weigh up the pros & cons. I would love to know what people charge to pull a VG and refit it. For now, I have to explore what the stock set up can provide, as not everyone can pull the engine. In the states (http://specialtyz.com/blog/?p=441) the current record for stock manual turbos is 420rwhp on their 91 Octane (98-99 UK). After this, I would simply fit twin GT28Rs (stock S15 T28s). The turbos fitted to rustysills' car made it a pleasure to map (see here for full info: http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?165792-Re-map&p=1689772&viewfull=1#post1689772). They flowed so much air compared to standard, I had to reduce the RPM limit until larger injectors are fitted, reducing the boost not an option due to boost jets. Good question, but unfortunately it has less to do with what I'm bringing to the table, as to what has been kept away from people's plates in this country... From what I know, there is Bobgenie & SlickPete (Emerald), Silverline (Link) & MarkDerby (Emerald on new build) that run aftermarket EMS on the VG and myself on NIStune. That is unheard of. Look at the Honda/Evo/Scooby/200sx etc etc tuning scene for example. Decade-old chips & boost jets, sure it works. So do bleed valves and 5th injectors, they're still the tuning equivalent of the stone age. A lot of people won't work with Zeds, it's not financially-viable as they are such a pig to work on, so there's not been any great need to move things on and push forward. It is not clever running stock turbos at 21psi compared to T28s at 15psi, I don't want anyone to think I am flying in the face of turbocharger technology and physics. The ONLY reason I am pushing the stock items is because there is such a leap financially from maximising stock turbo set-up and fitting larger turbos. Running any small-frame OEM journal bearing turbo at 21psi is going to exponentially increase wear rate. IMO, a decent spec list for maximising the set-up before having to pull the engine for larger turbos: Dual short-ram intakes* Grade 8 spark plugs** Full exhaust system & decats FMIC Larger intake piping (2.5") All the deletes (AIVs, PRVR, PCVs, CC etc. AC optional, not including EGR until engine comes out) Adjustable FPR set at 3.5 bar (400cc equivalent) or 4 bar (427cc equivalent) (fitting 555s isn't the only way). Although it isn't strictly required, you have to consider reliability. For example: I would rather run injectors at 50% duty than 90%... Aftermarket EMS, NIStune or custom-mapped ECU (surprise :laugh:) 1.2-1.3 bar. I don't see any reason why this can't get the average Zed to 450bhp, reliably. It's also quite a lot of modifications for your average Zed onwner I think, a big FMIC is not to everyone's taste. *Running a single MAF is fine for the power level, but running dual intakes makes a big difference with how the engine breathes. Really is night & day with the short intakes. **One thing that isn't mentioned much are spark plugs. If you ramp the boost up with stock platinum PFR6B-11s, you will likely melt something due to pre-ignition. See here for a spark plug debate: http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?165254-Spark-plug-type-and-size-for-a-modified-TT&highlight=bcr8es As with ALL cars that I run personally, I run BCR8ES plugs in my Zed. £8 a set. They are not the correct physical size for the Zed combustion chamber, and BKR7Es are closer. However, I have run BCR8ES in so many different cars over the last decade with zero issues other than slightly fouling whilst cruising (CA18DET only) that I simply cannot recommend any other plug when modifying. I wouldn't run a platinum plug in a lawnmower. This is my own opinion when it comes to plugs, based on the fact I have never melted anything, even when running 1.9 bar boost. If it's good enough for A. Graham Bell, it's good enough for me :laugh:

It is a good thread, isn't it?! I am honestly not pushing the engine side of things, 131bhp per litre is nothing. A stock MR2 Rev 3 turbo leaves the factory at 120bhp per litre. Look at all the Evos and the bhp/litre they extract from their engines. You have to remember that the 3L VG was bound by the 280ps Gentleman's Agreement. People need to take a step back and look at some other comparable engines from the same era, notably the RB26DETT, the 2JZGTE and the Mitsubishi GTO/3000GT 6G72. Typical question asked of how much power on stock internals of the 6G72: http://www.3si.org/forum/f35/how-much-horsepower-stock-internals-196284/ Typical answers (highlighted in bold are the points relevant to us): Do you see the difference between the answers on there and the answers you would get on here? It is simply all about the tuning, and a bit of luck with regards to individual components not randomly breaking down (dropping an injector at 21psi will not be good). My engine is showing 112k miles/kms on the clock. Compression is OK, but it is just a typical 300ZX that can be bought by anyone. It isn't immaculate, it was running without a thermostat with a load of K-Seal in the coolant, but it was just a pin-holed rad thankfully. So it is by no means some mythical 300ZX. It's led a hard life like a lot of Zeds out there. Again, the 3000GT requires an aftermarket EMS like the Supra, so tuning has not been dictated by generic chip tunes, so like the 2JZ community, they have a better idea of what their engines are actually capable of. Even the R32 RB26DETT can be chipped just like the Z, yet people simply fit a PowerFC at the very least. It is the UK Zed tuning community that is different to everywhere else. What I am showing/suggesting is nothing new, so I don't mind taking the flak as it will be for the greater good. I want to see the Z32 respected again, fighting with the Supra on the drag strip and the dyno. The only real bugbear in my eyes is having to pull the engine to fit decent turbos. 3L turbocharged engines are not troubled by anything below 500bhp. The only design flaw I'm aware of with the VG is the casting in the coolant channels at the rear, hence cylinders 5 & 6 are the first to go. RB26DETT, it's the ringlands on cylinder 6. It is at this point it would be nice to have a VG engine expert on here helping out with whatever shortcomings there may be. I'm guessing it's going to take some time before that is likely to happen... Someone needs to prove to me why we can't run 700+bhp on a stock bottom end, when similar engines do. I have an open mind, I'm open to the possibility that their may be something inherently wrong with Nissan's engineering masterpiece :laugh:

I'm on my phone at the moment, so will address any posts when I get back home. The reason I'm posting is because having fitted a fmic, dual short intakes and done lots of deletes, without adjusting the boost controller from the previous level of 21psi, I hit this level at part throttle before letting off at 1.5 bar.... Boost will be reduced back down to 21psi, of course! The car is an absolute weapon now, so will get it on the dyno, see what it's making and how much difference can be attributed to the new modifications. Happy Zedding!

No problem, here to help. The injectors won't be at 100% duty, it would be horrendously rich unless the engine was consuming enough air for around 430bhp. If you can tell me your spec (PM if you wish), I'll have a better idea of what could be going on. Everything is dependent on the chip programming. The ONLY way to ensure your car is running safely is to monitor the two most important aspects: AFR & timing/knock. Prior to this, you can have your chip analysed and compared against stock and an optimum generic tune, but that will not guarantee the car itself is running safely.

They quote 430RWHP without race gas, which will be around 500bhp, US figures. Rest of the world say 400RWHP & ~465bhp operating within their efficiency range. So it's probably spot on, but not at 18 psi. The only thing I can't fathom is that they quote it as havng a 35lb/min compressor wheel. The GT28RS flows exactly that amount at 18psi on the choke line. 525s are apparently T28 CHRAs in the stock machined housings, so I have no idea how they can claim that, but I'm not privvy to the spec of the inducers/exducers, so I just don't know. A GT2554R .80A/R flows around 17.5lb/min at 18psi, so maybe they have just put it into Zed twin turbo context. Using typical figures for a turbocharged petrol engine (BSFC=0.4) with an AFR of 11.5, you need around 38lb/min to create 500bhp, so this again almost backs up their claims. I'm just intrigued to know how they have a 35lb/min compressor wheel. Member rustysills could be running GT525s, his car produced ~420bhp @ 16psi and was a bit of a monster. You won't get 500bhp without upping the boost, the only way to maximise power & torque on any engine is to map each car individually on a dyno, measuring torque output. It's a science. You can start looking at water/meth injection to drop the intake temps and allow you to run more timing. I don't think water inj is used much on Zeds, but elsewhere it's common.

JeffTT, my negative feedback is free for all to see. As are the 12600 positive feedbacks. Unlike others, I will always use the trading name Turbonoz. There will be no hiding for me :) That happened a few months back when I frankly took too much on and customer service was lacking. Something that can happen to anyone, and is very regrettable. A large percentage of those were for items not received, one thing I can state is that everything was dispatched. The Golf GTi chips, well they are brilliant. However, there are 2 very different chips that do not work in the same Digifant ECU. Unfortunately, without sufficient customer care, problems do not get rectified in the world of mail order ECU tuning. I hold my hands up to that. You truly have no idea regarding the number of differrent permutations of Bosch ECUs and compatible chips. However, it has nothing to do with my abilities when it comes to mapping a car, or the proof of which I post on here. Thanks for derailing this thread so expertly, though. This is the second personal attack from you, keep 'em coming, I say! Although last time your posts were deleted having wrongfully accused me of back-door trading, almost destroying the thread for your own gain. I hope this time it will stay in the open forum. I don't want this to descend into into a personal slanging match, that would be a shame, but is it true your "+70bhp ECU" upgrades are nothing but JWT chips shamelessly copied/stolen. I have proof, but as it involves other parties, I shan't be divulging further. If I delve deep enough, could I not find some very scathing reviews of Zedworld hiding in your closet? I don't really see the point, you do what you do, I do what I do. I am simply posting my own findings, which are backed up by other people's experiences elsewhere in the world. I haven't taken a personal line in this once, simply posted what can be achieved and backed up by evidence. I am far from just a Zed mapper, it is simply a car I own with huge untapped potential due to the UK tuning scene being restricted by generic tunes and fear of a broken ringland. We're so far behind the Supras, it's unforgivable. I am a NISSAN man to the very core, I truly believe there is another way :thumbup1: I guess me extolling the virtues of proper ECU tuning is not good for the "+70bhp upgrade ECU" business, even though it would mean many more faster & reliable Zeds. Interesting, because I have made more money from generic chips than from mapping over the past 10 years. Anyone can run my 390bhp map and pull the same figures for themselves. Is 13 months long enough for it to be proven? Maybe you want to strike a deal, and sell that map as your own instead of the decade-old JWT effort? I'm sure we can work something out... I have never slated generic chips, they work perfectly within reason. Would you like to post some positive feedback of mine please? By the way, Jay Green won the Semi-Pro BDC class 2012 running a generic tune (280bhp on the dyno) I made for his 2.0L SR20DET-engined S13. He is now a Pro driver: Anyway, if anyone has any concerns or queries regarding my approach and results, and even my past, like I said: My car is available for all to see, pop down and have a chat. If I'm not at Santa Pod or the dyno, I am on here and Facebook 24/7. :thumbup: Apologies if the above makes for uninteresting reading, I hate forum confrontation, but sometimes it's inevitable. Kind regards, TURBONOZ Edit: P.S. I just want to big myself up some more, as what I do, and more importantly my customers, are not based on this forum so I am at a distinct disadvantage when someone such as ZEDworld takes an interest. I have THOUSANDS of happy customers all over the world, obviously not just for chips, but all sorts of car-related & engineering-related items. Manual boost controllers, injector rebuild kits, performance ECUs, rebuilt injectors, O-rings & ball bearings, come see me :lol: :lol:

Sure, not a problem. PM on its way.

I think Southport will be too far out unfortunately, but I'll confirm in the next hour or so :)

No. It was component failure or improper mapping that destroyed your ring lands. Sorry to say, probably could have been avoided. Your data logger? SAFC2? Consult? Here is some proof, which I have already posted, showing 21psi "on a boot to the floor run": Let me break it down: Red line = RPM Green line = MAF voltage Blue line = Injection duty cycle Pink line = AFR As is plain to see, duty cycle at 94% at an RPM of 5937 with an AFR of 11.89:1. I picked the highest duty cycle from the log to highlight. The MAF voltage of 4.574v is indicative of the power I was running. Z32 MAFs have a voltage output range of 0-5v. I will leave it up to you to work out how much power I was running. The reason duty cycle remains relatively constant is due to the fact boost tails off as revs rise. Last time I left it at that, but this time I'll go a bit further into it. The 94% is actually higher than the true duty cycle. This is because I have reduced the injection multiplier by 6.25% in order to be able to have a lean cruise condition (16:1) without O2 feedback. By doing this, fueling across the board is reduced, yet it will still be reporting the original duty cycle. In order to maintain the original AFR throughout the rest of the map, fueling was subsequently increased everywhere apart from low load areas. This results in a reported duty cycle HIGHER than the true physical duty cycle experienced by the injectors. In short, duty cycle was probably 90%. Hope that helps :) P.S. When you get tired of no power and driving in fear of broken ringlands, you know where to find me :lol: :lol: