guinnal

The reference "......... must be of a type that requires an MOT......" actually refers to the type of vehicle. for example, I have an old site dumper which is road registered but is MOT exempt, like a tractor or JCB these vehicles are not of the type which require an MOT and therefore the reg number cannot be transferred from them under any circumstance. in all instances if the vehicle normally requires an MOT, it must have one at transfer time

I had the same thing. As Dan mentions above, unsettled claim at renewal time, doubled premium, claim subsequently settled a few months later, NCD reinstated and additional premium refunded. Inconvenient and frustrating but thats how it works. Good luck with yours.

Windscreen replacement normally doesnt affect your ncd. It can be taken into account at renewal time and might affect your premium. I

My son took a "Young driver policy" with co-op at 18 on a fiesta 1.3. It was the cheapest policy he could find. £1390. (£100 extra to spread the cost over 12 months) They fitted a tracking device which observed his driving behaviour.He could log on and view what was called his "dashboard" and see graphics of his driving behaviour (speed, braking force, cornering, acceleration and time of travel, mileage etc.) The policy conditions meant that he could not drive between the hours of midnight and 5am on more than two nights per week. (This is deemed as high risk periods when young drivers are more likely to have accidents) During the first year he received 2 cheques for a total of £145 from Co-op insurance for "good behaviour"! After the first year he was going to change insurers because the night time driving curfew limited him. However the renewal was £690 and because it was so cheap he took it. I think this has been a factor in him being a reasonably sensible driver. I can contrast his driving style to that of his older brother who had a "traditional" insurance policy (more expensive). I think it has more positives than negatives.

I saw one for sale recently that sounds like this.. Met orange, wide body, lambo doors. Looked like a car that Alan (Bigmincey) on here used to own or worked on a few years back

Difficult to say if its too far gone from the photo. It would need to be measured with a micrometer to determine if it can be reground

Putting a hosepipe on the exhaust and in the window.....does that count?

The best underseal is the factory stuff on VWs and Audis. Is thick and rubbery, off white in colour and can be painted over. It is available from VW dealers and is less than £10. Much better than Schutz and stone chip Bilt Hamber do an excellent cavity wax, comes in a huge aerosol with a 500 mm lance as well as 1ltr for gun application. 3M do excellent cavity wax in aerosol or 5ltr tin. Dinitrol cavixty wax is also very good. Waxoyl is not so easy to apply effectively but its better than nothing and does give some protection I have used all of the above over the years. Good luck with your choice- wear a mask! It's all poison!

If you have or can get a tradecard for Halfords, the discount on batteries is good - approx 35% the last time I bought one.

Most engine builders will be familiar with them. This co ( mitsi gto specialists) might be a starting point for Jap engine bits/ advice on supply. They list a full set of bearings for gto for about £80. http://evilempireperformance.co.uk/gto-3000gt-shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=905

I used them a few times in Chevy and Mopar V8s. Top quality. Cheap as chips (for yank engines at least)

It would probably cost less overall to buy a fresh rust free import in gret nick By the time you either blast or dip + coat, then repair, prep, paint and reassemble You are into heavy money. I know of a bare shell mk1 capri resto- SPL (google them) took about £1000 to strip and then approx another £700 for electrophoretic primer dip. Then repairs.....then paint Ouch! Beautiful but eye watering expense. Good luck with what you decide mate.

OUCH .... I bought a full targa roof and door seal set from Courtesy Nissan in US a few years back, they were about £200+ The bleeding thing still leaked ! The solution is new seals and lots n lots of fine tuning and luck! ...or a slick top !!

If you went ahead and swapped indentities, as mentioned above, it then becomes a real minefield. Passing off an older car as newer etc (even though Dvla already did this -in error-with your R reg car). I also considered doing it when breaking a newer Z. It's a practice known as "ringing" and usually only done by car thieves! ! The car could end up with a Q plate, or worse still- it gets crushed or you might not have a problem at all. Still risky and probably not worth the hassle as the car doesnt have any other features of the 98 model.

As above, the car is technically worth a bit less than it would be, but not to the extent that the insurance co can walk away. (unless its been a repaired catA or b and that is extremely unlikely) You might have to provide an engineer's report to prove to them that it was well repaired and in sound condition, but insurance companies have been taking premiums on your car from you and prev owners since it was previously repaired.... Hope you get a bit of good news from them

Here's a tyre calculator for working out rolling radius / circumference etc http://www.alloywheels.com/Tyre_Calculator

Awesome! Looks and sounds like you had a Zedder's dream holiday. video gives error message- "The content owner has not made it available on mobile" Can you tweak it so I can watch on smartphone, Cheers

No noise- tappet/lifter has cleared itself. Common issue on cars that are not used much, as prevoiusly mentioned, often quietens down when car is back in regular use.

There's a rust free shell in for sale section. Its a lot of work but the end result will be way better than welding up a rotter

Exciting times! Good luck in your new venture

Not a bad return on £995

Be very, very careful. Google "Porsche engine problems" there are tons of examples of engine failure. Some cars on 3rd engine before 100k. In my family there is a 03/04 911, 100k. Full pampered history at OPC and specialists. Engine is scrap! Malton Porsche (big independent) who have looked at, reckon they can fill their workshop with engine repair jobs on modern watercooled porsches. Porsche had so many failures that they were selling new factory engines for £6.5k.

Plenty of room. Big boot too, think they are all saloons, (have never seen a hatchback in current model, though they might have made them)

I fitted full set of new seals, it took a long time and almost endless fettling before they sealed properly. You just need to keep at it.........you'll be demented

If you like it, do it. That's what it's all about. Freedom to express yourself etc etc.