guinnal

These cameras - or operators get it wrong sometimes. I got a letter 4 weeks ago to say my car (blue a civic) was caught on camera in Chiswick on 6th Jan and as it is currently sorn'd I was in deep doo doo also etc. "We have photographic evidence etc...." My civic has been sorned for 5 months in my garage 400 miles from Chiswick. I phoned them up and they told me they had a photo etc. I asked the advisor if they had it on their PC screen, they said yes, asked if it was a blue 3 door civic in the photo and guess what?.... it was not a civic!! They had the reg plate one digit out because the image was obstructed! I then wrote a letter, running over the pouints of the phone call, name of advisors etc and they sent an apology a couple of weeks later!

If you really want to see what your sills are like, borrow a borescope, snap-on do one with a 8mm diameter tip. Take the kick panels off and pull the carpet back, peel the tape covering the holes in the inner sill and put the camera in there, right up and down the length of the sill!! I have looked inside a few "rust free" sills. Some were in fact rust free and others that looked rust free from outside actually had "Free Rust"!! It is an eye opener

.... history... yeah.... they're ancient! came off a chariot1

There you go.......... people do change them! My mate has a tyre place and the above happens a lot more often than you'd think. But surely even a set of Pilots or F1s or Pzeros from a flood damaged written off Porsche etc would be a good bet. I'm not talking about part worns that are well past their best

.......... has anyone ever bought a second-hand car?..... they usually come pre-fitted with part worn tyres! lol! Most of us won't remove them immediately and fit brand-new so that we can be safe in the knowledge that we don't have tyres with a dodgy history to them......... a set of top brand part worns might be a better bet than brand new budgets or mid-rangers.... you pay your money and take your choice

..... There you go- 5 Bolt downpipes for sale http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=158015&highlight=labree

someone on here is bound to have some 5 bolts downpipes kicking around. Put a "wanted" ad in the trading section

...Learn something new every day! I couldn't work out what those were when I refurbed the suspension on my estate, I realised that it was some sort of barrier but corroded to nothing, I just cut circles of lead sheet and used them instead!

As Jeff says, when pushing the caliper pistons back, the M/cyl seals can reverse. You only really know there is something wrong when you put your foot on the brake pedal and get extended travel. Which might be taken upa bit by pumping. It can lead you to think you have air in the system, so you try bleeding the brakes, without success. I have experienced and witnessed it in a few cars, twice in Vauxhalls. The seals might flip back, but more often you'll have to strip the M/cyl. Good luck with it

if the battery is faulty, you might still be able to bump start it and get the above result. If the starter was working ok before the battery went flat, it should still be working now. (unless it's bad luck and coincidence) i would get someone experienced to look at it and give you a second opinion before you go to the expense of a new starter.

can be caused by a hot spot or mark on the disc. It might not really be described as a warp, and therefore not cause pulsing through the pedal or be apparent when braking from high speed etc, but it is most likely an irregularity on the surface of the disc.

Is your suspension geometry set to nissan factory standard settings or have you used custom settings for fast road/ track/race? Just interested as I've got a set of adjustable arms shocks etc to fit to mine

Hi- can you let me know the part numbers. I have a new pair and have tried to ascertain whether for swb or lwb with no luck. I'd be grateful for the info Thnx

................... I am losing the will at the moment.... bloody rocco started playing up today as well... needs a new carb or fuel pump we think. this put me in mind of a scirocco I had, got fuel starvation symptoms, when i took the fuel feed pipe off the pump or carb (cant remember which now, near driver side inner wing) and blew it through back to tank, car would run fine for a couple of days. It turned out that some shit and corrosion from inside of tank filler tube had fallen into tank and got sucked to the pick-up pipe gauze and blocked it. Had to change the filler neck and clean out tank to cure it. For what it's worth... just a thought...

Merc A class is popular with modders of older cars

Bit late for you now, but for the record, I have moved over 100 cars with an A frame, including several Zeds (all manuals) the farthest Z was approx 200 miles with no problems. I have moved automatic Mercs (prop removed) similar distances.

I have a friend who works for Job Centre, she tells me this has been happening for a couple of years or so, so it's not news. However, she did point out the hours that claimants have to work are 30 per week, and some of them get JSA of around £53/ week. About £1.77/ hour. I earned that as an apprentice in 1982, nearly 30 years ago. I'm not in any way in support of tossers who retired when they left school, merely pointing out some facts which were highlighted to me today! Also- She told me- It's not the workshy who are normally targetted, they usually have a variety or reasons/ other maladies stopping them from work. It's usually folk who have lost their jobs, been out of work for a while and are having a genuinely tough time.

It's a while since I have checked the prices, but in Costco, 3 years ago, I got a Bosch battery for a Merc E class for £34 +vat. Also, if you have a Halfords trade card,(not difficult to get one) they chop about 40-45% off their shelf price for batteries.

Replied, thanks for the advice

HI- i'm looking for some advice. I recently moved my zed (off the road for a few years) out of my garage. i then removed the battery. When I came to lock it later that day I couldn't put my hands on the key, so I locked the driver door then the passenger door manually from inside the car. I have now found the key, it's under my fleece on the passenger seat! i can just see the edge of the key ring. is there an easy way to open it without damage? If anyone can help me, please let me know. (Either by PM or text/mobile 07834 449240 due to the sensitive/ security issue here) Many thanks

a few years back most Zeds were probably worth more in bits, but now it's just as Pete says. Eventually the bits will be worth plenty when all the raggy and unloved cars have been scrapped but we are talking years down the line. 20+ years ago i had several Jensen Interceptors, (none cost more that £1k -long since sold unfortunately) but the bits and pieces I had lying in my garage i put on eBay recently and people paid great money for them. Amazing, just look at ford Escort , Capri, XR2 etc bits on the bay.

It's like breaking most cars, there are a few items that will be in high demand but the rest of it will take ages to sell. Look on eBay for Z parts in advanced search, completed items. There you will see what has sold recently and what hasn't.

Not too accurately!!