guinnal

Thanks for this info.

Cheers thanks for the info

Hi- Can anyone advise me on this. I'v been looking at the turbos from underneath the car, The exhaust housing has Garrett cast into it with 5 bolt elbows, the compressor has HKS cast into it. (I think i read somewhere that HKS don't actually manufacture turbos but that they modify or alter mainstream manufacturers products, hence both brands) I am trying to identify what model no. of HKS turbo I am looking at. There is a label plate but the script is tiny and very difficult to read with a torch and mirror! Is there any easy way to identify these? Thanks

If I can be of help to your mechanic tell him to call me at the workshop no worries. Jeff Tel 01827 311190 This guy is a legend!

I have replaced several broken springs in the last 4 weeks on various cars. The bad weather, almost 4 continuous weeks of compacted snow and ice on side roads then pot holes after the thaw means really rough conditions for suspension. It wouldn't need to be very old to break given the right conditions/ road surface. Quite probably not a manufacturing defect, loads of broken springs I've changed over the years look just like that at the break point.

They sell the scrap metal for more than they pay for it!

It's also worth noting how much space the caliper takes up. If you get too much machined off, the caliper will hit the spokes.

I have used Waxoyl several times in the past. It's not the easiest to use as the stuff needs to be heated up so that it becomes runny enough to spray. The manual spray kit is a bit of pain to use and requires constant pumping to maintain pressure. It seemed to protect well enough. However it is definitely old hat when compared to more modern stuff and these days I'd use waxoyl as a last resort-It is definitely better than nothing though. Recently I have used Dinitrol cavity wax injected under pressure with a compressor. Good stuff, creeps into seams and joins in metalwork. Easy to use with a compressor and a schutz gun with a probe attachment for cavities. Over the last week I have been rustproofing a '53 plate Merc Vito which, as usual these days with Mercs just cant wait to rust away like an old Lada! I used 3M cavity wax. it comes in aerosol, 1 ltr gun tubs, 5 litre and 10 litre tins. It was easy to work, runs into seams etc well enough from what I can see and I would definitely use it again. I paid £6.50 +vat for 1 litre tubs and £6.00+vat for 500ml aerosols. Again I used a schutz gun with a cavity probe for most of the job. I need to do my Z which is an import and still rust free so far. I will either use 3M (available from trade motor factors and paint suppliers) or I fancy trying Bilt Hamber wax. http://www.bilthamber.com/index.html They have a good website and they are highly recommended in the classic car mags. There is a comparison of three products on their website. It compares their stuff with Waxoyl and Dinitrol and it looks to provide excellent results.

Thanks Mate - subscribed. (my status changed from "registered" to "subscribed" in a nano-second- that was fast!)

Hi- I am about to renew my subs, a bit late though as mine expired in Feb. Do I pay £15 or £20? Thanks

Try this for comparing tyre sizes with std wheels/ tyres or for aftermarket wheels. Will also give you the recommended rim with for a given tyre size. It allows you to compare so that your speedo remains accurate http://www.alloywheels.com/tyrecalc.asp

I had a Camaro back in the early 90s with air shocks. The air really only adjusted the ride height. i thought they were great at the time. (They weren't really particularly effective as an aid to handling though!!)

Thanks

Hi- Has anyone fitted a US sourced (LHD) loom in a rhd car? If so, is there much difference in the looms, and any additional hassle in fitting? Thanks

.... only joking... hee hee hee

I am a tax inspector and I'm watching the lot of yer!

If it's rusty it's not worth repairing. You will have a car that has had rusty metal cut out and new welded in and it will cost plenty to have it done and still be worth less than one that's had/got no rust. Unless you are really attatched to it, don't repair it. Either re-shell it or break it and buy a rust free one

Coil overs are really meant for racing and track work (though obviously can be used on the Road)- infinitely variable/ adjustable ride height and damping from firm to rock hard. Standard-ish set-up is far better for comfort and day to day driving. I have adjustable coil overs and I am changing them for -20mm springs and adjustable (std type)KYB shockers.

What if it failed the mot with 6 weeks of the old one left to run- then you repaired the item that it failed on- so the car now has no faults-but havent yet bothered to get it re-tested- the original MOT would surely still stand?

If you only wanted them for drilling practice why complain when you spend £2.20 and get £2.20 worth?

US- eBay or Z1- I got a Polybush car set for approx $120. Contained just about every single bush required

£2.20................................................... and you let everyone on here know about your issue- next step- Delete the thread and tell no-one else!! :x: shhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh £55 Discs- http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Nissan-200SX-300ZX-2-0-T-3-0-TT-BRAKE-DISCS-FRONT_W0QQitemZ270179776469QQihZ017QQcategoryZ10402QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQ_trksidZp1638.m118.l1247QQcmdZViewItem http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NISSAN-300zx-Z32-TT-BREMBO-FRONT-BRAKE-DISC_W0QQitemZ290212719442QQihZ019QQcategoryZ10402QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQ_trksidZp1638.m118.l1247QQcmdZViewItem

Good luck mate- but why do it?