guinnal

Hi- sorry to be asking this but can someone please tell me how to reset/ switch-off the "Serv" lite in the dash of 96 Laguna. (without a special tool!!) thanks Leonard

Well done Neil!

Where is it being sold?, are there any other interesting cars on their site?

Hi- I heard about the head bolts from a bloke in Bellshill who builds hot rods/ spaceframes. He also mentioned that he knew the bloke with the ZED/sierra..... small world right enough. I didn't know he lives in Newmains. I've never seen it around here- though I've seen it at shows etc.

I thought about it, - I'm in Newmains so it wasn't far away, and reckoned that the fault was probably fixable, (I later heard that whoever attempted to fix it for the guy selling it, had used a couple of "rogue" bolts on the heads) I fancied it because it looked like a bargain, but after spending £3K+ on bits for my other bargain Z, I decided one was enough at the time I'm glad it's back on the road

It's looking good, did you buy it in Carluke/Lanark?

Like most things these days, they're made in China at low cost. I bought a couple a while ago on US eBay @ $44 each. The quality is pretty good, though I can't compare to a quality piece of kit like a B&M shifter which is £150+

Nice car - well done mate. Hope all your planned work goes smoothly

Hi Scotty, I had a TV in my Z once but I had to get rid, - his dress clashed with my interior trim

I just saw them this evening, I thought about getting a set, it's about the best price I've seen ( actually, it's the only price I've seen!)

http://www.amber-performance.co.uk I saw these guys advertising in "japanese performance" mag. They list Goodridge at £45 a set for 300zx.

About a month ago they had a 91 Celica GT4 turbo with only lock damage make £650- and they sold it! I followed one of their salvage trucks a couple of months back taking a Zed TT with lock damage into the yard, it still hasn't come up in the sale though.

I'd try bleeding the clutch first before you spend any money. There's a bleed nipple on the slave cylinder which is mounted on the bell housing under the car and one under the bonnet either on the inner wing mounted at the end of a pipe (approx 10-12mm dia) above the hicas solenoids or on the end of the master cyl. good luck

Sounds like it may be a fault in either the master or slave cyl and there may now be air in there. Try "pumping" the pedal to see if more resistance builds up, if so- air in sys. Master cyl repair kit- approx £15 and complete cyl approx £80 both from nissan. Slave about £45 ish - (I think) I just fitted a new slave cyl and M/Cyl repair kit last week- I had a similar problem. Eventually you'll probably have difficulty selecting gears. HTH Leonard

It depends what you are having done. In glasgow I just had the rear subframe shotblasted and powdercoated £40. pleased with the result.

Unless a Z is insured with an agreed value, those figures are what most insurance assessors will base their valuations on - and any subsequent payout- if a UK car is bumped. Less if it's an import. http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=32579&highlight=valuation

I need to either repair or replace one of the front pipes which is leaking (rusty) at the hanger anyway so I might just go for decatting with straight through pipes.

My 90 swb TT absolutely stinks when its running. A bit like rotten eggs. It was imported 4 weeks ago. I've been advised that it's the Jap fuel. (surely the japs don't accept stinky running?) I also read that it could be the cats. I put fresh Optimax in it - though there is still some jap fuel there too. But it still stinks. No smoke, runs smooth. Any ideas as to what could cause it? Thanks Leonard

I've just checked the values listed for Uk Zs in the CAP black book, the other trade price guide, (they have a section for pre 94 cars at the back) Year Mls clean Average Below retail 1990G 120k £2050 £1725 £1450 £4150 1991H 120K £2275 £1975 £1675 £4475 1992J 100K £2925 £2525 £2175 £5225 1993K 100K £3275 £2875 £2500 £5675 1994L 100K £3700 £3300 £2900 £6695 These are taken from May2004 edition of the guide so 5-6 months old. There has probably been some movement since then but it wont be much. trade clean- is what a dealer would pay for an almost "ready to retail" car in very good condition throughout with FSH (This what a dealer might offer you in a trade-in) Average- in reasonable condition given the age and mileage. May need some minor mechanical work/ servicing/ cleaning and touching up of paintwork Below ave- Poor condition, uneconomical to restore to "Retail condition". poor paintwork, damaged or corroded bodywork, poor interior. CAP also produce a trade price guide for grey imports. I have yet to see a copy to compare prices

Bled from the nipple on the inner wing and got an excellent clutch pedal within minutes. Moral.... when in doubt.... read the instructions!!

Thanks Jaffa, I've just looked at the manual and saw the long pipe and bleed nipple on inner wing. II also noticed it when I was doing the job but the pipe is about twice the bore size of the clutch pipe so I discounted it as part of the clutch hydraulic system - we live and learn!. I will try bleeding from the inner wing tomoprrow. I've got a late 92 s2 and it has a bleed nipple on the front of the clutch m/Cyl too.

Hi- 90 SWB Manual TT. (Single nipple on the slave cyl, no nipple on the m/Cyl) I bought it recently, had trouble selecting gear, better if clutch was pumped. I tried bleeding- went from poor selection to no selection (must have introduced more air into it) Put new piston in M/Cyl and new slave cyl. Tried using an Easibleed, Got the lid sealed etc and bled it, bled it, bled it, tried taking cyl off and clamping it, holding the nipple as high as poss etc got a reasonable pedal but not perfect, took car down from axle stands, jumped in and guess what... no feckin pedal.(can get it with furious pumping tho') Please can someone tell me the definitive way to bleed a Z clutch

I bought some in December 03, took a bit of prompting to get them sent. Took about 6 weeks to arrive. But I do have the address from the shipping ticket. K Lee Power Garage 14426 Valley Boulevard City of Industry CA 91746 USA HTH Good Luck

I'd be interested Scott. I'm in Newmains, Lanarkshire so fairly central.

Me too, I've had loads of stuff from US. the post office is the cheapest shipper. Try clicking these links to compare costs, first one is USPS, second, UPS. It might be worth asking if they will ship with USPS instead of UPS? http://ircalc.usps.gov/details.asp?txtMaxIndemnity=5000&txtIndemnity=100&RadioReturn=0&Method=2&Cost=24.75&Commit=3+-+5+Days&MethodText=Global+Express+Mail+%28EMS%29&Country=Great+Britain+and+Northern+Ireland&Pounds=1&Ounces=0&Oversize=&GXGNonWeight=Max.+length+36%22%2C+max.+length+plus+girth+79%22&bCOM=False&bPickup=True&bReturnReceipt=False&RadioSS=2&cmdSubmit=Continue http://wwwapps.ups.com/calTimeCost?loc=en_US Just compare a 2lb package from each shipper. UPS is the most expensive (and probably the best/fastest) but the cost difference is significant.... and UPS always always collect the vat/duty