WillieO

My neighbour stuck bits of carpet to his garage walls - most coupes have long doors and similar problems.

Richard The actuator is a little motor drive gizmo that turns a blade through a quarter turn and back again to change the valving to hard. The piston rods are hollow and this blade goes down the centre of the piston rod. I played with it when I replaced my rear shocks. The wiring diagram in the pdf manual on 3/4 pages does show the 26 and 27 coming from the HICAS controller and a 26 and 27 going into the shock absorber control unit also to terminals 1 and 6 as with the handbrake diagnostic. Still cant figure out when it works though apart from the diagnostic test as Paul says.

You have a power window lock switch that is set up to disable the passenger side. I think some straightforward re wiring of the drivers side window power supply also through this switch would mean that both windows were disabled when lock switched. Or as James pointed out make sure they cant have the keys or wait till they are a bit older to help! Personally I'd also be worried about the handbrake, the auto box getting knocked into drive (if auto) little fingers in the fan blades, rolling over one etc etc. Jacks collapsing etc I've got kids too and prefer that they are nowhere near the car when I work on it. Kids safety comes first - its only a car.

Thanks Andy - that makes good sense. Also checked the link re PCV and understand better what they do - so it would prove stuck closed PCVs if you have pressure when you take off the filler cap when idling! So if "Newbie"s oil burning problem stops with the oil filler cap off then its definitely down to PCVs being stuck shut or not fitted properly rather than faulty turbo seals.

If the PCV valves were a problem would that mean pressure build up in the crank case and if so wouldnt taking off the oil filler cap release that pressure - as a check anyway at tickover to see if there is pressure there? I can understand that if you have high crankcase pressure then the oil return to the sump from each turbocharger could get forced back up to the turbo bearing and seal and I guess past the seals but I would not have thought that crank case pressure would be anything like high enough. Even God forbid, with broken piston rings. I have seen some of the PCV group buy debate and problems and confess I dont quite understand it. One thing that would worry me with new turbos is how you ensure that the turbo bearings have oil in them at start up. 0- umpteen thousand rpm in less than a second

I keep it bottom right hand corner of the windscreen - maybe try it somewhere else but if its high up then you have wires annoying you. I wondered as well if the radar emitter zone protection thingy on the Clifford alarm on the zed was operating causing the extra false alarms. I know its not supposed to till you lock the car.

dicky O2 sensor maybe allowing rich running on one side - might explain the backfire if unburnt fuel in the exhaust.

The answer might be 26 and 27!! On the wiring diagram there are two connections coming to the terminals 1 and 6 on the shock absorber actuator controller. These are marked on the diagram 26 and 27. 26 and 27 are shown coming from the HICAS control unit terminal 20 and ignition live side so something is triggered by the HICAS unit. I guess proving it would need a wire run from the actuator on one shocker to light a bulb whenever it does actuate. Maybe it acts in high speed fast steering movements for instance. Its pretty transparent if it does do anything because You are not aware of it while driving.

Other cars a Rover so no heated front screen. The thing about the zed I thought might be the bonnet shape and the fact its ally. I had the detector to bits to try to quieten down the beeper as its so loud even at minimum. There is a forward facing horn shape gizmo that is obviously the collector for the radar frequencies. The slope of the horn part sort of matches the slope of the zed bonnet hence the nutty theory that it was increasing the sensitivity on a zed. Who had been caught head on with radar? Maybe a zed has stealth characteristics from the front and a low radar reflection! Sharp edge forward etc. Hey Konrad, I didnt know helicopters could use radar on you! Surely they cant get a true speed cos your hardly in the same plane as it were?

Speaker covers come off easiest if you pull up the edge towards the centre of the car first. Relocating by locating the other edge of the cover in first also seems easier. You can do it with fingers this way and no risk of damaging the fabric. At least on mine it was! Removing boot area trim panels means starting at the rear centre first and getting busy with screws once you expose the first edge. You then work your way round.

Thanks Gio Lots of stuff I never knew!

2 on mine and toe in also wrong - too much of it

I've checked this several times and I am certain my detector beeps far more often in my zed than bad weather car. I know the local hot spots and shop doors that set it off. At first I thought slightly different voltage effect on sensitivity or something coming off the alarm system or engine electrics but cant explain it. Could it be that the zeds alloy bonnet / hood is acting as a radar guide and amplifing signals? Its defo not paranoia.

Isnt S&M more fun? - what I heard anyway! You have to me a bit of a masochist to own a zed long term and if you buy one that was previously driven by a sadist you can really get shafted! warped and generally ar5ed off

I used Kenwood 5X7 3 way specially ordered. Fit with only some new holes drilled and some rubber gasket to make a good seal. Usuals are 6X4 twin cone crap. Others have fitted 6X9s but I think this needs serious mods in the standard mounts.

Could it really be a)? While we're at it who designed the 300zx? We all think its such a work of engineering art it would be nice to know who it was and what else he or she or they have done.

About 248kph @6000rpm - and if I had me anorak on I might make an adjustment for tyre diameter increase due to centrifugal force which would mean faster still! On your private airstrip of course 18" with 265/35 mean about 2.5% higher gearing I fink So instead of 25.7mph per 1000rpm you get 26.34 Automatic is geared even higher in OD locked up.

Faulty battery - if its less than a year old get another under gt. Happened to my dad. Of course reciept long gone but I told him to find his credit card statement and use that - he did and got a replacement battery foc.

My local specialist wanted £125 each VAt inc and fitting and balancing inc for 265/35 X 18 FK 451 Falkens and mytyres wants £154 each. Where's all these bargain prices then? I bought local! Are we talking pre VAT prices here with some of the exceptional prices quoted?

Think I'm gonna do my top link bushes as there is a little play on one side. According to the history they were changed only 30k miles ago but I hear they go every 3 years or so and maybe the big wheels put more load on them.

Like Gio, I also looked for the control circuit that stiffened up the back on full throttle or high speed and it doesnt look like there is anything. If there was it would put on the handbrake light unless there's a diode in the circuit. Easy enough to make it switchable if you want it. Its a bit of a mystery why Europe cars are done like this. Yet Nissan gives the handbrake light on as the diagnostic for checking that your rear shocks go stiff and back to normal when you put the handbrake down again. Worth trying the handbrake light on if you go on a track day and see how it handles.

volvo 340 round a big roundabout in heavy rain - he spun off and went into the middle of it. No damage afaik Felt guilty for leading him on tho!

I just got my front wheels balanced because I had slight vibs around 85ish. It was muchg worse after balancing with real steering shake like buckled wheels at 65. Figured it was done wrong. So then I went to my local big wheels people to get it re done right with diagonals balanced accross the rim as well. Once again shakes and vibration on braking which was never there before. Figured that maybe it had to do with air wrench tightening of wheel nuts and all the copaslip the guy painted the threads with. Half way into a long journey cruising fast I stopped, slackened off the nuts, and re tightened them by hand evenly doing it opposite nut next kind of thing. The brake vib disappeared, the shake on the steering wheel immediately disappeared - only still a slight feel of vibration at highish speeds. Conclusion is that either the hub and disc or the wheel is distorting if unevenly tightened. I am thinking of trying even less torque on the nuts to check the effect. Even wondered if the lock nut can throw off the balance as it is lighter than the other ones. I have BBS 18" X 8.5 on the front (Also with poly bushes on tension rods) Next thing to look at will be the top links because I did have slight play on one. Anybody else see this effect?

Simmo I just got my front wheels balanced because I had slight vibs around 85ish. It was awful after balancing with real steering shake at 65. Figured it was done wrong. So then I went to my local big wheels people to get it re done right with diagonals balanced accross the rim as well. Once again shakes and vibration on braking which was never there before. Figured that maybe it had to do with air wrench tightening of wheel nuts. Half way into a long journey cruising fast I stopped slackened off the nuts and re tightened by hand evenly doing it opposite nut next kind of thing. The brake vib disappeared, the shake on the steering wheel disappeared only still a slight feel of vibration at highish speeds. Conclusion is that either the hub and disc or the wheel is distorting if unevenly tightened. I am thinking of trying even less torque on the nuts to check the effect. Even wondered if the locking nut can throw off the balance as it is lighter than the other ones. I have BBS 18" X 8.5 on the front (Also with poly bushes on tension rods) Next thing to look at will be the top links because I did have slight play on one.

It does - the USA spec ones have actuators on the front shocks as well as rears. Europe only the rears.