WillieO

Apexi cans on fabricated pipes. A place for small dogs to hide in.

Peter on another note - do you notice anything different between them to drive? Or cant you tell which is which once you're in them?

The engine driven fan has a viscous slip coupling and a bi metallic spiral spring clutch that locks it up when needed. I've never had mine do this - Scotland only made 30c last week! If it does lock up you should notice a lot of fan / air noise from the engine when you rev it. Could be also that it would still be locked up just after switching off.

If its a straightish line scratch and you can wield a can of spraypaint without making a total b0ll0cks of it then mask tape right to the very edge of the scratch - than mask all around so that you can only see the scratch. Then you mist umpteen coats of paint onto the scratch - start with primer if down to the metal. Leave a couple of weeks to harden then very very fine wet n dry to bring the hopefully now proud paint in the scratch back down to the level of the rest without eating into the stuff around it. Finally a spray of laquer. A couple of weeks after that - light T cut or polish. Time consuming but I managed it successfully on a pearlescent car where a vandal had left straightish key marks. If you mask it right you really cant make it any worse - it can depend on how good a match the spray paint is. Or you pay a professional and get the whole panel / side whatever done! Then every time you look at it you are sure the resprayed bit looks different to the rest!

7" X 5" 3 way Kenwoods go in the rear with only the holes for the self tappers needing re drilled. Plus some rubber gasket to make a good seal if you like half decent bass.

standard Boxster will give an NA Z32 a good run for it's money, by Pork928 Similar horsepower with 300kg less. I think that the NA will be in the rear view mirror! Just had a bit of fun with my brother in his standard Boxster. Thought my TT auto with zost and intake should cream it - nope illusions shattered. I blame the heat causing the ICs to overheat:) or him slipstreaming me! Over 50 miles of fast country road I could extend the gap with him behind me on acceleration but he was always there. He felt that the manual Boxter was faster at the slow end - but of course I think he was deluded (wouldnt I?) So maybe at 110 plus speeds you'd begin to get away but nobody in a stock ish auto zed TT is going to cream a properly driven boxter in real world open road conditions - there is hardly anything in it. It is certainly no walkover. A properly driven S is got to be very comparable possibly better than a good manual stock TT and the boxter has decent brakes too as standard. Only saving grace is his boxter cost 4 times what my zed did. I think most reported kills against boxters are up against blokes worried how they'll make the £600 per month payments if they toast it! You have to respect a nice bit of engineering.

Martin No sorry. Ive done all the jobs on mine so far by myself except the prop centre bearing. Colin Dick (dick300) is in Bonnybridge and there is a garage there called Hypertech that does stuff on his - apparently also good at NOS! Colin Dick has done turbos himself but I would guess there must be a garage in Edinburgh able to help you. Willie

Have you had a feel at the top and bottom water connection pipes after a run. You should feel the temperature difference. Also Try to feel the matrix surface of the rad - is it hot or cold? Hopefully you dont have a furred up radiator core.

UK spec ones £100 + each and use the electric actuator to vary stiffness. Otherwise interchangeable

Dick300 has done it without engine out! And he has rebuilt them himself - super hero in my opinion.

On an NA the intake will only get about 6 more bhp I think.

Who said that smell of petrol goes away once its warmed up?

How many zeds do you have now Peter - 3 is it? :)

I would pull the sender for the after market gauge keep it wired - make an earth connection to the body and stick it in a pot of boiling water to verify it. I doubt its reading right as others already suggested . The leccy fan is a red herring - its got sweet fa to do with cooling the rad once the car gets above about 30mph and through draft takes over. The main viscous fan would also have locked up its bi metallic clutch if your water temp got that hot. It would then have been working overtime and you'd hear it quite loud when you rev it.

Something Bagins just added made me think again. If you had a stuck open engine thermostat (or no thermostat even fitted) the engine could be running so cool its stayed on safety boost even in this weather! Stuck in traffic would always warm it right up though. By switching on the aircon the extra heat from the aircon condenser onto the engine radiator could be enough to warm the engine right up and let the ECU enable normal boost. Trust your temp sensor connections are good and clean? Could give a similar effect and the extra temp caused by aircon pushes the sensor reading up enough to kick in normal boost.

Always wanted to be able to say "I told you so" and I did - look back! Could have saved a few bob there! At least you know your cylinder head gaskets are prolly OK. :)

Cant be a positive effect - only negatives. Aircon saps power via compressor except at full throttle when it disengages. saps more power via electric fan increases underbonnet temp due to condenser heat getting pushed under the bonnet. Causes engine fan to lock up its clutch using even more power to shove hot air away. If you get in traffic this will then heat soak to the intercoolers and boost pipes and plenum causing further power drop. So its either your imagination or something loose just fixed itself - just wait and see what some cold damp air will do!!

You'll be furious / relieved if it was one of the by-pass hoses from the top water connector to the cylinder heads like I mentioned previously. £8 and half hour. Thats what went on mine and any garage would first say water pump because the water looks like its coming from the water pump and water pumps can fail. The leak can be intermittent and only show when enough pressure makes the small crack in the rubber hose open up. Small mirror, torch look either side under top ally water connector to top of engine. maybe was never anything wrong with your water pump

Mine works gr8 2 :)

Its never going to spot the little white van with the small black square cut out on the back door! They dont stay in one place long enough to get on the database! Your 715 should But every help etc So it'll show those red eye jobbies that the snooper cant see. And neither can the rest of us in the dark! Best have both if you can!

Thanks Matty and Mark Pretty sure there isnt any dings or flat spots. All thats left is maybe some wear in a wheel bearing which exacerbates the running out of true with big diameter wider wheels than stock. Could be getting noticeable when both wheels get into synch with each other and then drift out of synch again as you corner for example. You cant take up wear in this type of wheel bearing can you? I see some had changed rack bushes so I took a look at that as well. If someone moves the seering wheel I can deel the rack move very slightly against the bushes but its hardly anything.

I thought the zz3s were brand new and different from the zz2's just as So2s are believed better than so3s. I thought maybe something in the tread pattern since they and others have copied the so2 pattern. Tyres are very subjective - different makes seem to suit different cars better than others. I've been using 18" Falkens. My opinion is they're OK wet and dry but only last around 10k. I know others think they're crap. I can loose the back end anytime also with these but I've learned to back off when conditions wont allow it! Nobody can try all makes available on one car so I cant see how anyone can state definitively one is crap and another not. Plus we have cars with 16 - 19" wheels and with import or harder Euro/UK shocks and springs which all affect handling.

When its switched on you can often see fluid or air bubbles rushing by - the more air bubbles then the more it needs a re charge. If you cant see anything at all it means either its full or totally empty. They put fluorescent dye in mine so it looks blueish and helps show leaks. There are two pipes - one takes the coolness;) to the inside and the other the hotness ;( to the outside. On a zed the cool pipe is lagged especially passing the turbo. The one with the site glass is the hot one. You really can burn your fingers on the hot one when all is working fine. If all that is working and still no cools inside it must mean the chiller part is maybe furred up with fungus blocking the air flow or one of the internal door flaps is closed when it should be open. Isnt there some stuff you can get to kill the fungus on the chiller if you do get bad smells off it?

I've had the same problem. Rebalanced wheels several times. One thing that really affects zeds is if they zap the nuts up with an air wrench. Back off the nuts and re tighten by hand evenly opposite style and bring up to the proper torque. After one balancing mine was very bad just slackened off the nuts and re tightened and vibration gone. but it can come back. I noticed they slobbered copaslip over threads and wondered if it got hydraulic'd into the space between wheel and hub. Methinks maybe aftermarket wheels can be a problem too. I've BBS 18" 8.5" on 235s. They are true and fit without anything fouling on the hub. Can the hub distort and leave the wheel running out of true? Wheel bearings feel smooth. The problem still comes and goes. New discs, Nismo top link bushes, poly tension rod bushes and its still there. Cant feel any play anywhere. But between 80-90 its irritating when you want real smooth. Welcome any new ideas also to get rid of this final irritation too.

the ISP is living off the penny a minute or whatever rebate from the telecoms co and if you get in from broadband he gets nothing hence neither do you for sending anyway. I have the same problem - might have to abandon that email address.