WillieO

Is this a wind up? rwhp Is that rear wheel horsepower? Does that mean + 40 to 60 to get flywheel horsepower assuming transmission losses? Quote I'm running 380RWHP on a stock VG30DE (NA engine) for over 6 months now and it still runs great. by Eric Does that mean 420 -450 BHP out of an NA engine without blowers. Forgive me if I find it hard to understand but how do you get from 220ish bhp flywheel of a stock NA to 420bhp? Even NOS wont do that. Kinda makes Pagani Zondas look like woosemobiles if you can get anything like 600 RWHP! I thought an honest TT with SE or JWT chip, 14psi boost, exhaust and intake might do about 360-380 flywheel bhp maybe 340rwhp. I know Stillen claim 400bhp with that spec but I thought maybe the difference between DIN honestish BHP and SAE American BHP Cmon then lets hear it from the power gurus :)

propshaft centre support bearing will probably be rogered and needing changed if not already done and maybe the gearbox mounting as well. Its the rubber parts that perish with age and heat from exhausts and transmission.

Sure is ugly! What was the link on the other side like? It must have seen the same kind of duty and should be in a similar state otherwise this points to some other cause. What was the poly bush like and how long in? Does look like metal fatigue though - take it that it hadnt come apart though but looks close to it. Seems to raise more questions

Except the rest of the aircon system will be a write off once the moisture gets into it. The compressor will sieze as well. If you go this road you might as well junk the compressor as well. Its a heavy bu99er! For the power freaks this "mod" would be worth more than any UD pulley :) mainly due to the saving in mass.

Does it do it when you just rev the engine or only when driving?

I'd get a second opinion on the R134A. The zed system runs at very high pressure - 300psi+. I think R134A would drive it even higher. Might explain the popped relief valve. The guy who did mine said R416 or something like that was the compatible replacement for the original and used it in my mega mileage one. 2 years on and still chillin fine - no valves poppin. He came out to my office to do it and charged £80. Search on aircon in the forum it for more info / opinion.

Hi Mitch I am not far from the kingdom and have learned a bit in my near 3 years ownership! There's a few of us around here. There are one or two importers you can look around - see them on autotrader. I got mine privately from a forum member. Also Peter Hood in Livingston has 3 which is one more than he and his wife need really - maybe you can talk him out of one! Also Dick300 has a hot one that goes quite quick down the quarter mile a Crail. Willie

Maybe when you floored it the knock sensor detected the detting and put you on safety boost. That would mean you would stay on it till you turned off the ignition and started it up again. Would explain big power loss. Did you notice the cut in max boost on the guage? Try Optimax or checking your ignition timing. Sorry if this was already ruled out as too obvious

and.......are they easy to install Yes. Drill to remove the soft innards of the old one then Hammer and chisel to drift out the outer sleeve of the bush. Big vice to squash in the new poly bush - amazing to see the contortions it goes through before it pops in! Thought I was doing it all wrong and was going to break it at first - it is really pliable and distorts something awful when squashed (the poly bush by Powerflex that is) hence my surprise at MAC1's sticky post on the subject. Total time 2 - 3 hours for both sides for a reasonably equipped and skilled amateur. £50 ish for the pair of bushes. Chris Witor Powerflex.

Not immediately but it means the silicone filled bushes are coming to end of life and the silicone goo is leaking out. They will both go squidgy and you might sense wheel vibration under braking and a general lack of sharpness in the steering. The choices are new Nissan arms, replacement poly bushes (see above sticky!!) or rose jointed arms. Cheapest option has been poly bushes till now. MOT tester will fail it on this if he realises what the goo is. Mine past each time because he thought it was oil or power steering fluid leaking. Got the poly ones now and need to check em.

and what about the saabalier driver?

cant be hydrolocked if it still turns over and if the plugs were out and water in a cylinder it would come spraying out the plug hole when you cranked it. You cant have hydrolocked anyway from your description of how it came to a stop. You really have to drive into deepish standing water at speed to suck enough water to hydrolock. Keep the faith. Just maybe you got a leak somewhere or the cap was not sealing and you boiled it up. Maybe you havent damaged anything mechanically. You could have something else like a break in the wiring somewhere - and not be getting proper fuel injector pulses. If there is no salad cream in the oil and no oil in the water your head gaskets might be fine. It would also be unlikely for both to go. I dont have experience of zed head gaskets but if one went between cylinders you would loose compression on those 2 cylinders but I think it would still start and run roughly on the other 4. Others will know better where the gaskets do fail. A compression test would confirm the rings etc are OK. If so you have to look for other causes.

Your turbos might also start to smoke if the mileage is quite high. This can be down to some seal wear in the turbos and the effect of reduced back pressure once that cats are away. Not supposed to be legal after 01/08/92 either

A zed would start even bone dry. It would eventually seize though. It looks like you will need to try and borrow a compression tester to verify that you havent almost seized it and broke rings etc. If you have fuel / air and sparks at the right time you should be running. The loss of water might be from hot running / rad cap etc but it could also be due to a blown head gasket. If compression was way down then it can never get running fast enough on the starter to get ignitable compressed mixture.

I had this. Did poly bushes etc and rebuilt calipers due to sticking pistons had discs skimmed but no good. Cure in the end was new 3g discs.

You'll probably find the bearing itself is fine but the rubber support hardens and sags with age such that the bearing settles on the bottom of the mount. Bones of its ar5e so to speak. This means the prop is sagging and vibration from sagging gets transmitted straight into bodyshell. I changed mine. The top part rubber had cracked up and let go completely 9 bearing was fine but they dont come separately as the rubber is bonded to the bearing.

You said she lost all power and I had to pull onto the hard shoulder (M25 j22-23). Immediately as I came to a stop the car died and has not started since. It was about 40degrees road temp that day and the engine was roasting, indeed because the engine was so hot and she didn't have her 3-4mins 'spin down' time the oil started to fry on the turbos and produced light blue smoke under the bonnet (which s**t me up!)... Electrics such as one or two of the transistors in the PTU failing would give a misfire and rough running. Loss of the 12 V power supply or earth to the PTU would be like turning the ignition off. Fuel vapour lock might give the power loss symptoms you describe - goes with the temperatures - have you taken a fuel hose off the fuel filter to see if the pressure is there - watch for a face ful of petrol! Also the light blue smoke under the bonnet - I dont think that should be there unless oil was burning off something. Even if the oil was burning on the turbo shafts any smoke can only get to the crankcase and shouldnt be seen. Hope you still have compression - you didnt totally overheat it did you? On seeing sparks it can be hard to see on a plug - if you are really brave and dont have a pacemaker use a bare lead and hang on while you crank it - you'll know if there's volts! Or get one of those old type neon timing lights and put it in series with the plug.

but the driver makes up for it with a light weight skull built for filling out a backwards baseball cap!

2 new front discs and a set of Lucas OE pads and shims for an 800 Vitesse Sport £58 all in fitted me self!

Doesnt one usually have a left hand thread and the other a right hand thread? Havent looke that close at zed track rod ends but it is on some other cars

just bought a load of original brochures and magazines from early 90's. The JAP spec is 300bhp and the UK is 276BHP (Manual) The AUTO is less on both. by Scoobydoo So what does your brochure say for a UK spec auto??

Can also be affected if the front or rear is lower than stock. Changes the angle the designer intended for wind flow over the T tops. But yes trying to use a hands free above 60 with T tops off is a bit useless as well.

Less than most people think they are:)

And UK comes with the electric actuators on the rear shocks that changes them from stiff to rigid by the famous handbrake trick or by ecu underc ertain driving conditions - proof anyone? 2 rectangular rear fog lamps buty only one with a bulb in it. Plus UK/Euro cars have a 17% bigger cooling surface radiator and a differential oil cooler with its own leccy oil pump - important for your flat out Autobahn running - as if you did anyway! Rust comes free!

Its not a hard job for a normal garage. 2 - 3 hours depending on exhausts (on mine anyway it was.)