WillieO

With 20" you can save money on tyres and just use rubber paint!

Plus zeds negative camber gets more negative with age! Result your expensive 19" tyres wear out their inside edges in no time on the rears. OK for show but not for go unless you spend big bucks on adjustable camber kits as well and have bang on suspension. At least 18" tyres are becoming cheaper. 17" probably the best compromise on ride quality, cost and performance. Its arguable but 18" looks good and proportionate on a zed.

If you dont find the problem and keep on just topping up you are inviting corrosion problems in ally parts and in your heater matrix unless I guess if you keep adding anti freeze with corrosion inhibiters. Fresh water's oxygen rich. The 2 top connection to cylinder head hoses are a favorite and make it look like water pump. They are not that hard to change either. They go every 3/4 years. I have it on service records.

You can do it yourself with 3gbrakes.co.uk grooved Brembo castings and save yourself about £80. Or even more with stock type discs from a distributor. search on quinton. You also need to check your caliper pistons are not sticking

I just got one of these - welding looks fine to me - the ally bar is pretty substantial and works in compression mode only like an arch so I cant see that flex is an issue - I mean the whole damn body would need to be flexing big time to flex it and if it did flex too much it would dent your bonnet / hood. I thought the object of the thing was just to increase body stiffness across the gap caused by the engine bay giving some steering benefits. Cant say yet whether it did any good I am not going off road with it (I hope) or taking up rallying.

Yup Got the 416 stuff 2 years ago and still works great. I checked it with a temperature probe and at min temp setting the temp of the air coming into the car is 8 deg C at the vent. Cost £80 They recycle the old stuff they pull out. Its worth quite a lot.

So the Nissan handbook is wrong - It says 10W30, 10W40 and 10W50 for this climate. Isnt 0W40 just the same as any 40 weight when warm but thinner when stone cold just when you really need thin? I might be persuaded to try 10W60 its just that it runs fine with 0W40 full synthetic even though high mileage I wonder how much bhp a 60W costs against a 40W?:D

Thats one bodykitted car I really like!

I'm glad its Friday! Similarly If the one with the 12bhp advantage turns up his 2000W hifi with some heavy metal at the time the 3bhp electrical demand will consume 12bhp at the flywheel and the advantage is gone and thats before the extra weight of the amps and subs is included. Also if you've loads of bodykit and a lard ar5e mate inside advantage gone. In fact just a neat slim other=advantage gone. I accept that there is a gain in bhp just that it aint so much to get excited about and is it worth the cost/risk?

Dave Its partly my point - there you have 2 dyno tests with different results for basically the same mod on the same engine - hardly repeatable objective evidence m'lud. Do you pick the one you want to believe? I think i'd struggle to feel 12bhp on a megane let alone a 1.6 tonne zed. Mine has exhaust done with pipes a small dog could get up before I bought it so I cannot compare before but I did do the intake kit instead of K&N panel filters and it sounded different at full whack (noisier) and I think it feels faster but I could be deluding myself into believing I just won 15bhp!

Dave The dyno chart shows a whopping 11bhp increase overall in max bhp. And these are SAE bhp which I think are not as big as DIN BHP. Max effect around 4200rpm. Why only there? if the savings should be accross the rpm range? Maybe thats where the stock pulley is doing max damping of vibration frequencies excited in the crankshaft so you save there but get vibration instead. Hardly anything before 3000rpm - so the dyno doesnt notice any low down effect whatsoever?? I dont believe I could feel 11bhp difference personally maybe 50 tho. even a curious loss of power about 2300rpm - new vibration frequency excited in crankshaft due to new pulley? Then there is always the possibility the dyno has been "influenced" to maximise the gains to justify the mod. stimulating some debate here!! Willie

No MAC 1 - havent talked to Latz its just I'm a bit of a cynic with power claims and add on bits. I think a lot is left to psychology and people justifying to themselves "I spent the money now I know it feels faster" without any objective proof. Some mods are no better than aromatherapy for cars - hope I dont offend any zed owning aromatherapists out there but there's more than a few things in life I class in the bollockology class. Then again I talk to my cars so where does that leave me!

Beware add-on devices with dubious power claims. Ask yourself why do they make em in different pretty anodised colours? answer because a marketing person is selling them not an engineer! the 2 or so extra bhp only come at high revs - just when harmonic vibrations might be wanting to tear your crankshaft to bits. Nissan didnt put the weights on the stock pulley for nothing. It damps harmonic vibrations at certain frequencies and makes the motor smoother.

Yup looks same as the courtesy one plus 15 quid shipping got mine!

I was trying to respond the previous post - real time here posts thick and fast!! Stuart - "we were stationary as we hit a bus" - try that in your claim form! You did well surviving a 70mph shunt from behind!

cos the last thing to go through your mind will be your ar5se! Seriously tho drive defensively out there and safely!

Think the Italians have just gone for a 90mph limit but then they were already doing about 30mph above that. Anyway is the big 4X4s you got to worry about - they can do 120 but cant stop then you face a 2.5 tonne missile coming at you. Talk about WMD's! Even Richard branson turned his range rover over at speed - but he thought "great car i didnt get hurt"!

I guess the life expectancy of that engine is so low that you dont bother with an air filter

Well I got one for about 50 quid all the way from California through risv on ebay. I'll fit it at the weekend and see what it does.

Anyone who fitted this - did you see any improvement in handling? I wonder if its worth its extra weight but the fact the new 350 has em front and back either suggests it is or that is a must have fashion accessory!

Viper How much boost do you get with 1.2mm jets? I take it you are still on a stock ecu chip so could be risking weak mixture at high boost.

Take it you got boost back? Other possibility if you run big boost is to blow the side off an intercooler!

Just to reinforce the perception that some performance cars can go on and on I have a mate with a B10 Alpina bmw, his dads from new in 1989 with 277k miles on it and its still able to exceed silly 150mph speeds on a private test track. Its had some engine work but to be expected surely. I get nervous when I hear of fewer and fewer zeds with no major problems and high mileage - like mine - original non smoking turbos, but I'm glad they're out there and find it re assuring when I hear about them! Mostly you only hear about the problems and where possible we try to help each other fix them. How to kill a zed - mod to stage 111plus take it to a quarter mile track and do about 30 flat out standing starts. No surprise if turbos fry, transmissions liquify clutches dont and so on!

You can always buy a vectra / mondeo / passat / bmw / audi etc only. A new one will be really reliable and will depreciate at about £400 per month just sitting outside your house. You will also relish the driving experience as you realise your life is ebbing away like all the other clones in the matrix! Or follow my strategy and have both - a totally depreciated large saloon that did high motorway miles and a zed. Both cars dont depreciate anymore just need maintenance and a bit of knowhow to keep them sane. Sure you have 2 lots of insurance and road tax but you also get the best of both worlds and dont need to wear out the zed in lousy weather if you dont want to. You also have a backup when one will inevitably give a problem. You can drive a thousand miles in a zed and not see another one! (Go on some wag say thats cos the rest are all broke!)

Gio look at the circuit diagram in the manual see links above. The HICAS unit is in the top area on page 3 and the shock absorber control unit in the bottom area on page 4. 26 and 27 are ringed as leaving the HICAS unit and 26 and 27 are ringed again as entering the shock absorber control unit. I could be misreading it of course but it looks right to me. Sorry I cant cut and paste the sections of the diagram.