WillieO

Think you might be misinformed. TT zeds already have a two speed electric fan in front of the rad and aircon condenser as well as an engine driven fan viscous coupled do da with a bi metallic spiral spring clutch to lock it up (when really hot) behind the rad. The airflow will rise substantially when it locks up and it will only lock up if its hot enough. The additional 2 speed electric one will only come on under certain water temperature and aircon demand conditions and speeds - Check the manual for full data. Zeds got belt n braces and then some! Euro spec zeds also have a 30% bigger rad cooler surface - to aid with autobahn driving! With all this the "if it aint broke dont fix it" moto applies. Kenlowe is out of luck here

My kid is banned from having anything in her packed lunch that could contain peanuts because I guess the school doesnt want sued if some kid with an allergy eats one of her sandwiches and croaks. Does this mean you could get sued if someone snuffs it after sitting in your car? You might need one of those "contains nuts" warnings on your car but I guess that goes for all of us here!

If it is one of the hoses that is your problem then buy the pair from Nissan they cost about £8 I think and they had to get them in for me. The top hose connection not only connects these short hoses one to each cylinder head but also flange connects the water jacket on the inlet manifold / plenum (stand to be corrected here). That flange connection only uses silicone gasket goo- there is no gasket so you have to clean up the mating faces nice as well as apply the instant gasket and wait for it to gel etc etc before fitting.

bet you park a foot or more from every kerb now!

If it is the pipes you can get at them by taking off the top rad hose then with a Allen head socket and short extension you take off the 3 I think long allen screws holding the top water connection on. You also need a pair of long nose pliers to compress the ears on the self tensioning hose clips and push them in towards the cylinder heads to release the tension on the hose. If some prat has fitted jubilee clips it can be a bitch - had happened on mine. Get the proper springy ones from Nissan in that case. You should then be able to gently pull the top hose conn out of the hoses. Watch not stuff anything into the radiator - as I said this is a way to do it not the recommended way. I had the darn thing off the correct way the first time but three more times the way described above because the Halfords instant gasket goo kept on leaking again. Changed to Hermetite and all was well. Could get it off in 10 minutes in the end! If you've big hands you've not much chance doing it this way as the fan gets in the way as well. If it is these hoses then its a lot easier than a water pump. Also lost water quite quickly once heated up and under pressure. You could see it drip drip all the time from the crank pulley or off the sump.

You need a littly make up mirror like with her face powder stuff. Thats ideal for checking those 2 hoses under and behind the top water pipe. You also need a torch. Do it when the engine is good and hot with some pressure in the top hose. Those little pipes are a nuckle scrapper to change but you can actually do them without taking off the radiator and fan etc.

Doesnt half engine speed relate to camshafts - maybe a noisy or sticking hydraulic tappet. Can happen if you dont use the car for a long time but should free up once you take it for a decent drive. Whats the sound clack clack. tap, etc? I have a noise that seems to come from the cam belt. More a shih shih, shihy shih at tackover - dont laugh! Not very loud its just me being paranoid about cambelt breakages. Also had a new cambelt 18K ago. Took the top left cam belt cover off to look at it whirring round and it all looked fine with no tears or fraying.

And I finally got round to mailing my cheque too

yup, agree. Listen to an old MGB - It was an ancient 4 cylinder OHV engine and it sounded lovely. A specially tuned exhaust can sound great. Dont think you can make a 6 cylinder sound like a V8 tho. Then there are V8s and V8s flat plane cranks etc as said. But at low rpm my Z sounds a bit V8 ish and at high rpm it just howls. I have cat back plain pipes about 3,5" dia into big Apexi cans with OTT outlets. But cant have everything and I aint going to change it. Brings out the kid in me in tunnels and high rise car parks!

And which country's biggest naval and special forces victory was the Rainbow Warrior?

Mark Dont tell me - It means 35mpg and 400bhp on a stock TT and we need a new 2003 design 64 bit ecu to go with it to make sense of the greater sensortivity? No seriously tho what does it mean?

That'll be £30 extra on your insurance, ta very much - thats what they did to me! Now you know you've got an intake kit you're more likely to prang it!

I was always warned about drivers wearing hats! Then there was skip caps - intelligence reducers - and one wag claimed worn backwards for maximum intelligence reduction. This seems to be true from what I have experienced. Are we becoming bigoted, prejudiced?

does that mean when you crank the engine over on the starter it will kill the injector/coil pack supply then?? Awright Paul it sounds a bit dumb I know but on proper starting of a Z all kinds of things are going on. Diagnostics run on systems to check all kinds of stuff and for a very short period normal systems monitoring and protection is inhibited to enable it to start in the first place. Your fuel injection for example simultaneously squirts fuel into all six cylinders twice per rpm until it starts then reverts to sequential injection as each cylinder needs it. The mixture control system checks the exhaust sensors and does its feeback thing. warm up mixture routine and so on. If you dump the voltage after its running it will probably stall as the ecu computer crashes. See the EFEC section in the manual. Its a good read! For example low battery volts when running will cause your ecu to change the ignition timing to the safety map. Yor engine might revert to failsafe running and run rough - ask the guys on here who found the car suddenly ran better after changing a duff battery? Why would a duff battery affect the running if the battery voltage was not critical to normal systems operation once it was started. :cool:

OK sorry about my getting blown on the cheap joke! Seriously if the leccy supercharger draws 50Amp running it would prolly need 200 amps starting up and the battery volt drop at that point might be enough to temporarily kill the ecu supply and injectors / coil packs etc. Look at the ecu diagram and manual and see the voltages the ecu monitors - if the battery volts drops it can cause all kinds of system issues. I think the single speed thing is a problem too. A leccy supercharger would need to be variable speed variable airflow and interfaced and matched to the ecu to really work. Anything else is a botch up. Also if you started it before starting the engine the air pressure and extra air pushed in at idle is going to mess up the idling mixture. At big throttle openings the engine will probably gulp air faster than this thing can deliver it. In between its going to provide too much air at small throttle openings and the ecu is depending on a predicable amount of air depending on throttle position sensor position. I dont think the ecu can simply leave it to the mass air flow sensor to measure the extra air but like most contributors to this thread I'm no expert! I think this could only give real gains if it can deliver much more air than the engine can consume at full throttle ie make positive boost presure and I have doubts about that. Anything in the middle of the powerband is pretty useless. still nothin ventured etc

and they arrested Hugh Grant for doing this as well! Apparently it was his foot moving on the brake pedal that gave the game away. we are talking about the same thing arent we, getting blown?

Think its all to do with emission control - even fuel vapour is an emission. Benzene is one of the more carcinogenic fractions that goes to vapout first. Thats why there's a slight vacuum pulled on the tank so that fumes are continually pulled back into the fuel system. The fuel pump pressurises fuel to the injection but unused comes right back to the tank again on the return line. Willie

Thanks MAC1 I now understand Luke does a kit with bearings and bushes or will do exchange to links fitted out. The kits are I think £95ish plus VAT etc per side So what did Scott fit?

Do I understand this thread right - you can replace the bushes in the front suspension top links? I thought you had to change the whole link? If so who is it supplies the bushes? Thanks

Check theres oil in the diff also and no signs of leaks. At 33000 miles it cant be wore out. Mine is silent with 130000!

There is a small feed to the valve and whenu release the feed pipe the heat gets throu, so must be something to do with the control of it. So thats how viagra works!

My fronts are wearing outside more than insides and more so on the side with the play. Car still handles fine tho

sounds like I better get rid of that 5mm of play then. So replacing the bushes is what to do? Not buy new top links

Stuart That piccy with the rear wheel arch - Looks like you have bad rust on the sill there - Hate to say it but try pressing on those dark rust patches with a small screwdriver and I think you'll go right through it. Same on some of those areas on the wheel arch. Are you going to cut the sills right back and replace with new metal? Be interested to see whats underneath them. Might have to do the same with mine one day.

top it right up - leave it idling good an hot and watch underneath for leaks! Or worse still water going out the overflow. The little short hoses behind the top water connection can be a bitch and fail about every 3 or 4 years