WillieO

check also the Nissan bulletin on these - up to around 5mm play can be OK. I have about that on one side and it passed its last 2 MOTs

remember to set your required temperature as well - if its set too cold it will blow cold. Sorry if this is too obvious. On Econ the compressor is always off but the aircon still controls temperature to your required level. Even on Auto with the compressor on the ecu cuts the compressor out when you go for full throttle - just while your foot is on the floor! Also your friend is prolly talking about whether the aircon has gas in it and a working compressor or not. If you ve a thermometer you stick the aircon on auto and minimum temp - LO with the windows open. Put the thermo on the main vents where the freezing cold air should be coming out. If you read down to around 8 deg C then I think your aircon is OK.

Stuart Look out for leaks around the diff oil cooler hoses. Mine was leaking onto the exhaust at one time. The leccy oil pump only comes on above 90 I think. I checked the diff oil level and it was way down.

Stuart Look out for leaks around the diff oil cooler hoses. Mine was leaking onto the exhaust at one time. The leccy oil pump only comes on above 90 I think. I checked the diff oil level and it was way down.

Hi my 2nd is a 800 Vitesse Sport 200bhp turbo with near rigid shockers - anyway I think the Honda engined 827 one has a fine matrix heater core that is a susceptable to corrosion - there are warnings about not using Radweld stuff in it as it also blocks easy. Or you could have an airlock in it. Maybe reverse flushing will shift it

My neighbour has a tuned new STI scooby and wanted even more than its present 300bhp from it but the guy who will remap the chip to win another 30bhp insists he fits a knock link first. He showed the gizmo that just arrived through the post. It has a piezo sensor to fit to the engine and a gauge with coloured leds to show the degree of detonation. It appears that this knock microphone is much better than the stock one that loses sensitivity after 3000rpm where the real damage can be done. Anybody here tried one?

My rear tyres always wear more towards the insides whereas there's always a couple of mm left on the outsides. Methinks there's a wee bit too much negative camber. I'm on 18X265/35s. Anybody tried to adjust the rears with the adjustable top link inner pivot bolt with the cam adjustment? I had tried to loosen it with an ordinary spanner but it was well tight. I figured I might as well take out as much negative camber as the adjustment allows. Might have to try a long bar or me torque wrech to get the leverage.

Check Dick300. He's done it. He had some rain probs with water going on the injector conns I think and he had to put in some mod to shed the water. Maybe vis on his rides

If on 18" with 265X35 then I think the speedo is then theoretically 2.5%ish slow. However if it already over reads by 10% then you are only part way back to the truth. All cars will be a little different. There are always errors on instruments. Probably 0 - 10% with 10% being exceptional. On the Autocar 1989 road test car they had 72 showing for true 70 and 104 for true 100. 137 for 130 etc. So about 4/5%. I think mine is pretty close to the truth at least up to 100. Mr P nicked me at 89 on the motorway. I tried the "I thought I was much slower than that cos my speedo wasnt showing above 90 argument and speedos always overread by 10% dont they?" I thought I was at 80 - 85 ish and they'd let me off. Mr P said not and didnt. Electronic speedos are generally pretty accurate these days. So dont use that argument for speeding. Would the court accept GPs evidence?

Cat rule is supposed to apply from 01/08/92 so includes all K and onwards. Also dont we have precats in the bit from the turbo down as well as the cats that people remove in the first sections of the exhaust. I know some drill out the ceramic stuff from the pre cats as well as removing the main cats.

Impressive stuff - Hizus You say with stock ecu as well - didnt you consider pukka fuelling at those big boosts or do you have a fuelling trick as well? From what I've read and seen here you are asking for melted pistons anyway much above 12psi on stock fuelling. Of course you retard as well but doesnt that cancel out some of the gains? .. and you only mentioned cheap plugs!

Flat spotted tyre through sitting a long time on a soft tyre or maybe a misfire on the engine through a dodgy coilpack or sticking injector?

Thanks John Thats what I will do next.

I had the same with my BBS RS2's. Use one of those rubber strap gizmos from Halfords - the kind that works on oil filters. Its hard to make it stay on the large nut but with a bit of perseverance it loosens the sod without damaging it. I wouldnt apply heat though - the thread is plastic on mine.

John It sounds like it comes from the belt once per revolution of the cam belt so its much slower than an engine rpm. Its sounds like a sticky patch on the belt going over one of the cam wheels. Varies with engine speed but you only hear it when ticking over really slow and quiet. Otherwise she runs great. In the service records Nissan must have cocked up the cam belt fit because a knocking noise was heard within 1000 miles of fitting it. Another belt was then fitted FOC by Nissan. It made me think they frayed it or something the first time and the frayed bit caused the knocking then. I'm maybe worried about nothing.

possibilities hope its not a slow puncture? Other poss is the vacuum leaking in your fuel tank. Battery back up in your cat 1 alarm? One part of my system is inside the rear left wing.

thanks lads! Nobody else heard the faint chitty noise then?

Cam belt was done 28 k ago. When its ticking over warm at 700rpm its as steady as a rock but I hear this faint noise at a low frequency that can only be described as like you know what. I think it is maybe a sticky patch or something on the cam belt because it is slow enough repeating to be coming from the cam belt once per revolution around the cams and crank etc. Anybody heard anything similar? I'd hate for it to be the noise before the bang bang bit when the belt breaks. And what is the easiest cover to get off to take a good look at the cam belt condition?

Wouldnt quite agree on must change em all. Sure it's nice to be able to but these are old cars and if you follow the change everything strategy it'll soon be a £20k plus car again still worth less than £5k. I am always amazed at the mods some people do before they just accept getting the car right and safe with good brakes and tyres is more important. You could just do the rears. See how the car feels and handles and then if its say too soft at the rear and too firm at the front it will probably tend to understeer a bit on the limit. But unless you always drive on the limit you'll never notice. If the rears are leaking and same make as the fronts then they were probably all fitted the same time and maybe fronts are about finished also. But this is no guide. My UK car wore out its fronts at 80k and rears at 100k. Its all on Nissan shocks and they're stiff enough for me. To many with more money than sense get aftermarket part itis and convince themselves they just improved the car. If your budgets tight I would go for standard replacements. In theory even aftermarket shocks are modifications that should be advised to your insurer - who will want more. just my 2p

Think the Japanese spec rear shocks are quite cheap ~£40 ea whereas the UK spec electronically adjustable are more like £120 each. They are Tokico

There is a USA road & track test where the TT with goes through a slalom quite a bit faster than the NA without HICAS and it might even have beaten the Vette it was being compared with. Cant remember for sure. Personally I like the sharp turn in feel when you steer fast. I think its a sound idea but yes it adds weight, complexity and more bits to wear out. So if its worn at all your rear is going to feel a bit inaccurate. Also the adjustable rear shocks are on UK zeds as well. Search handbrake trick!

We all must be - we looked at it too! Still it made me chuckle

That blower on ebay consumes less than 36W that means it blows less hard than your heater motor. Its a joke. 2.7amps. Any conversions to an NA will always be limited by the high compression ratio of the NA. If you go to the bother of new low compression pistons to get full output then you might as well get a TT engine anyway. There is a company working on a very high speed electric motor that could drive the compressor side of a normal turbo but I think it is still some way from commercialising it. It would need a bunch of electronics linked to the ecu to variable speed the motor in line with engine demand / throttle position rpm etc. That motor would probably consume a couple of kilowatts or 160 amps so you would also need a good battery and alternator to keep the juice up. Then with an NA zed you have to find somewhere to put it with the intake and pipe mods as well. and you'd still need low compression pistons for TT type power. imho

When cruising on light throttle it should be in OD top and locked up - 2700rpm ish at 80. It doesnt just drop a gear to put less strain on itself when there isnt really any strain. The only time it'll drop out and drop to 3rd is on an incline or something when you or the cruise control will open the throttle a little to maintain the speed. I dont think you can put a hold on a UK auto. Mine always drops a couple of gears on kick down, then red lines before changing up.

Sounds like you might need to read the thread below about the heater matrix. I sometimes think I smell anifreeze too but so far nothing on the carpet. It must be catching!